section swept

Dragging it out of the dump may have been the wrong move here!!!

Oh you rich people...a shoe box int middle o’t’ road..! We used to live under a dried up leaf on the top of a puddle. Night time lighting was by a vacant cats eye in ‘t’ road. You had real dosh if you could afford to live inside one of them.?

They appear to have far more money????? too! I like to do most of my home repairs myself⚒?⛏ and especially hate having to pay for work on my cars just to keep the warranty. Anyhow I’m going with the majority now and just pay up and enjoy life??

On my M80 I made sure that the clutch push rod was straight and the bearings that run with the rod were new. The clutch pivot in the magneto housing was re worked by bushing the pivot shaft. Lubed with some Mercedes Benz special grease that they use on new diesel injectors when installing, clutch cable routing as smooth as possible with no tight bends. I’m using the cable that came with the bike and the operation with all clutch plates fitted is really and low and behold it doesn’t stick like most do???‍?

Having run a number of franchised garages and main dealerships I can tell you that there’s an awful lot more to the hourly charge out rate. I could go on about overheads ( all worked into that rate) I could go on about the mandatory factory trading and specialised mandatory tools (you have to buy to remain in franchise) I could go on about the sundries needed to operate, oils, overalls coporate uniforms, overalls, health and safety essentials, ramps, which all need maintenance etc. The dead money areas like reception staff and cleaners etc etc. This is why it is wrong to compare high street with back street, I’m not about to criticise ‘the back street garage’ because many of them do a dammed good job especially when they nick a factory trained technician/mechanic. Oh and then there’s all the electronic kit needed to meet franchise agreement status...£££££! I think at today’s prices £50 for half an hour is probably about right. Just don’t go to London and expect to find bargain labour rates. I used to have to charge £60 before the 24/7 breakdown truck left the forecourt, well would you sit st home waiting for the phone to call you away from your comfy home out into the winters night! If Wigan lad cares to post pictures of the rear brake assembly we should be able to help him solve his issues....Wigan lad are you up for a bit more work? Have you tried inserting between the pads and caliper pistons either hard plastic strips or lollipop sticks to force the caliper pistons right back into the caliper housing. This reduces lost movement and it’s something cycle mechanics do as well as experienced car mechanics working on more complex systems. This method is not always needed but I had to do this on my mates Aprilia Futura to achieve a really good pedal. When you bleed the system drawing the fluid out by suction (depression) is sometimes the best method, however if the rear master cylinder is leaking, these can leak air in as well as fluid out, then you need a new assembly or a kit if the bores not worn. The same goes for the caliper. On some bikes it’s possible to remove the entire rear brake system off the bike in one bit and then you can work on it on the bench, or take it to a cycle shop or garage or bike dealer and ask the question. ???‍??‍? If you were nearer and the bike could be brought to my place I’d give it a go while you watched/helped but Wigan is a fair old way to Robin Hood Country.

Restore it and spend spend, you more than likely will not get your money back. Build it for trials work and you will rapidly find all the weaknesses of running a trail based bike. You like the TY so why not go that way, far better than the rolling frame Honda that you have now. Make hay while the sun shines sell it in pieces you should make at least $350.

Whatever happens your trial will probably have been more successful than the footie!?

You maybe need to check a few more things out first before hand. Does bike free wheel, brakes not locked on. Can you put bike in gear with dead engine and push bike with clutch pulled in. Have you found a false neutral and are trying to pull away in too higher gear ie 5th. What work has been recently done, is bike new to you??

As a safety item these kill switches should work without having to resort to stripping a new component down to make it work. Most outboard motor and jet ski kill switches have a lanyard but it’s attached to a clip that goes around the kill switch button.....depart from said ride and the clip pings off and engine stops. The clip is still attached to the lanyard...no magnets, no corrosion to worry about.

Whoa up there the different terminology as you put it isn’t....the rectifier is a different component to a regulator, both doing exactly as their name implies...unless it’s a combined rectifier/regulator they are offering??

Back then I was selling TY175’s for about £589 and the TY250 at £615, now look at the prices they go for now!!!?

Mitsui at Oakcroft Road Chessington were the Official Yamaha Importers, at least that’s where all my new stock (including the TY range) came from. John Shirt didn’t import Yamaha’s he would have to get his stock from Mitsui, as far as I know. Nice chap to deal with and a nice chap to meet to. Fowler’s of Bristol supplied the M/X and IT enduro Yamaha’s in a dealer/ distributor agreement ?

From your description it does look like you may have a worn big-end, diagnosis at a distance is difficult of course and I may be wrong. Have you checked the ignition timing? If you take off the flywheel casing you can rotate the flywheel by hand back and forth, listening for any untoward noises. While the case is off try for sideways, up and play this will indicate the condition of the main bearings. Another fault to check for is detonation or the layman’s term is pinking, sometimes brought on by excess carbon glowing on the piston crown combustion chamber. This causes the fuel to start to burn too early and then the fuel literally explodes and makes the piston rattle like a bolt in a tin can being shaken; continued detonation puts tremendous pressure on the piston crown and it was never designed to suffer this....a hole will be burned in the crown or the piston may crack. There’s lots more but I think you have enough to be getting on with, just investigate methodically as you have been doing??

Hello littel. What a smart looking TY you have, can you put up a few more photos. I see you have a box section alloy swinging arm, you must have spent a fortune either buying the bike ready modified or building it yourself, which ii it????

Check to make sure throttle cable has a small amount of free play 1-2mm and that throttle slide sits on stop screw. Adjust idle and mixture with engine warm to hotish say 4-5 mins with gentle blipping the throttle ( revving). Adjust both mixture and idle screw for smoothest slowest and consistent running.??

Pah a mere spring chicken at 52??

Gear lever looks to be mounted a bit on the low side.

That damper mount shouldn’t be that tight, try using a centre punch on the flat surface of the bolt to try and turn it....once t moves you can use an Allen key....the torx bit suggestion may work..has done for me in the past. Have you put correct amount of oil in gearbox?? Some Bultaco owners use 500cc others go to 600cc...either way too much oil and it’s going to leak out. Gearbox out put shaft seal can be replaced by first removing timing side engine case 4 hex socket bolts...note the one next to sprocket should have a fibre washer or similar between case and mounting post...now the gearbox chain sprocket, there should be a lock tab that will need to be freed...leave chain on you will use this together with back brake applied to hold gearbox sprocket still while you undo the sprocket retaining nut, this should be tight so a long knuckle bar should help with the correct size socket. Slide off and clean area thoroughly, now with great care prise out the oil seal ensuring that you don’t damage the seal housing. When you fit new oil seal take care not to damage seal lips...lubelips with either silicon grease, oil or high melting point grease...just to aid the seals life! What oil have you put into the clutch housing....the best oil is ATF...others have their preferences. Unfortunately you do not say if the speedo drive is from the front or rear wheel...I’m guessing by looking at your picture that it’s rear so first is the cable in one piece, detach it by unscrewing the collar that secures the cable to the speedo head...now get someone to spin the rear wheel...if you see the cable turning then it’s the speedo head that’s faulty. If the cable isn’t turning, make sure it has engaged with the drive at the rear wheel by gently pushing the inner cable into the out while turning back wheel. Now if nothing’s happening check the inner cable, pull it out..if it won’t come then undo the cable at the rear. I’m afraid that now if there is still no drive you will have to remove the back wheel and take off the drive housing and investigate some more. From the look of your workshop I’m guessing you already know quite a bit.

Bit like Yamaha and their crossed tuning forks emblem...they own Ohlins so there must be a lot of tuning going on..?.going on a ha ha ?

O2 disconnect and ecu will not be able to match output to input and vic versa. Dump the cat but keep the O2 sensor that’s what a lot of tuners use to keep exhaust gas at optimum. ?‍♂️?

Or....or no front forks and no rear suspension, just a voucher to be redeemed against the suspenders of your choice. Let’s put some money back into the UK’s suspension manufacturers. Or you get unnamed forks and rear suspension unit but a pack of different names STICKERS to adorn forks and damper. A certain company in UK manufactured front forks, looking a bit like Ceriani (well they all look pretty dam the same) but there were two letters stamped into the top yoke. When I asked I was shown another top yoke which had the full wording..Rogue Elephants...not a clue if this was a pointer to the handling these forks gave??this you have to appreciate was in a time when sticker/label lust and development was very early in its infancy.

Shave a few more pounds off, light rider fresh off a diet of cardboard and distilled water....enter the riding apparel?????????. Nice protective heavyish boots, crash helmet fairly light but open to more development ( and don’t forget those stickers?) riding gloves ( no one yet wears nitrile surgical inspection gloves) ?‍?gloves could be lighter remove every other stitch for example, back, chest and knee protection light but again areas for improvement....any tools and spares carried scrutinised and made as light as possible..get someone else to run behind carrying them instead...more spares?? And as our race car ?⛷driver used to do, ensure you have taken as many number two visits to the loo? before competing! That’s at least four pounds off?I’ll get me coat shall I?

You’ve been checking up haven’t you? At the factory we do all of our development in the sticker section.

Hello Andy, you might have electronic ignition fitted as you don’t say what year your Sherpa T 350 is. If you have CB (contact breaker ignition) set the ignition to 3.25mm btdc you will find the engine to be more tractable in sections and less of a handful in tight going...Sammy Miller recommended this to me years ago. This also iliminates any tendency to start up in reverse?

This could be your ‘lucky day?’.....take all the stickers off? (and save a few pounds in weight) with the engine cases name ground off more weight saving? (cor I want swirls like that on my cases) remove the rim tapes and no one will know what you are riding?️‍♂️??....just like owning a development bike! Come 2020 if you keep it clean and tidy put the latest stickers on and hey presto...new bike???