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Austin Rover tried that and look what happened, well would you have bought a Marina when you could buy a Ford Cortina? I blame the parents and the schools/Government of course 40+to a class then there are bound to be some that miss out on an edukajun!?‍??‍???‍???

Ah Plagerism the sincerest form of flattery ?‍?

Excellent??

It’s only the profit that makes things expensive, but that’s what keeps businesses going? It’s the same in most trades but some are helpful but others have manufacturers warranty and disclosure restraints imposed by their agreements. You’ll get all the help on this site though?

Oh for goodness sake just go and buy a PROPER Trials bike and that should put a stop to this comparison of an unsuitable bike the Reflex with a suitable bike the TLR. That Reflex you are looking at will probably be snapped up by one of the many commissioned buyers in the US it’ll come over to UK in a container and be advertised at three time the price it was for sale in the States...some sap will buy it and then spend £££’s trying to make into something it will never be...a Trials machine. Put another $500 to your $1000 and go for broke with an Ossa, Montesa or even a Bultaco.??

It doesn’t do any good wearing a Suzuki sticker on a Bultaco?

Wheel alignment although not crucial will to some extent have an effect on handling. Usually it’s the front forks that are out and this is a reason why some riders have a tough time in sections. Use a straight piece of square metal section tubing or round tubing as long as it’s straight, hold this against the rear wheel sprocket or wheel rim or tyre if seated properly in the rim. The tube needs to be long enough to reach the gearbox sprocket, so the object of the exercise is to get the drive chain as straight and in alignment so as to reduce any side friction on the sprockets. Once this is achieved you will (if the frames straight and been built properly) have the rear wheel straight in the frame. With two longer tubes held against the rear wheel facing forward to go each side of the front wheel by measuring the gap each side of the tube and front wheel you can establish alignment....or not. Wheels out of line usually mean the the bike will turn one way much better than in the opposite direction....that could be a five!??

That clears that up nicely then.?

Probably take all the paint off too! Sonic cleaning of the carb will restore it back to unclogged condition, willunblock jets too! Oh the Reflex was the trail TRAIL orientated model with road geometry. The TLR was a proper Trials TRIALS iron.

When you work in the service industry waiting around for plugs to cool down is a luxury that we don’t get. Fiat made there cylinder heads out of hard cheese so you would always wreck the threads, the twin cam engines both Fiat and Alfa Romeo not only used hard cheese but even angled the front and rear plugs differently to the no2 and3 plug holes. I’d the plug won’t go in with fingers or gloved to protect from heat to finger tight then somethings wrong....over eager right arms. With good right arms we threw the colourtunes as far as we could but that was in the late 60’s early 70s when those things that controlled the fuel ....oh what do you call them...oh yes carbs...were adjustable.

Sci-fi, there were no little end spacers supplied, when I queried this I was told that Bultaco used the con rod thrust washers to keep the con rod aligned and therefore no spacers/ shims need in the little end. That means that the little end can flop about sideways an alarming amount in my mind, that is why I asked InMotion for some spacers which did the trick. 0.5 mm is not a lot of free play 0.25 mm per side. Bearing in mind that there is very little sideways movement in my big end/ con rod I can see Bultaco point of view. But I’m happier knowing the end float is contained to acceptable limits. Little/small end clearance at 1 mm might not be enough when heat expansion has occurred. My major concern was that if the little end could slide about sideways t high revs it might decide to chase into the piston gudgeon pin bosses. InMotion were very helpful and a mine of information and very quick with supplying parts.

Sounds as though you have only just got this bike. After standing it is quite normal for some bikes of this kind for their clutches to stick....not releasing when you pull in the clutch lever. The trick is to pull in the clutch and select 1st or 2nd gear and then rock the bike back and forth to free the clutch plates. Some will not free until you’ve got heat into the engine and more importantly the clutch, then they usually free up. If I’m reading your post right you have stripped the clutch down because of a perceived fault when there wasn’t one...no disrespect to your mechanical skills but it does sound as others have stated that you’ve assembled the clutch incorrectly. Hope you sort it out??

Just pulling the plug out to discover it’s oily is not the right way to go about checking the running of the engine and plug state. Letting the engine run down to idle will inevitably produce slight oil deposits on the plug due to the throttle being almost closed. What you should try is a ‘plug chop’....this entails getting the engine up to normal temp, riding the bike reasonably hard for a few minutes...with more constant engine speed if possible (farm track or trail) say 4-5000rpm then pull in the clutch and kill the engine all in the same instant...coast to a halt. Remove spark plug and it will show you the condition it was in at the time of stopping the engine running. You should see a nice even biscuit (rich tea) colour around the edge and the centre electrode should be clean with the earth electrode showing a slightly lighter biscuit colour. To all intents and purposes, from your description I wouldn’t worry and just get on and enjoy what sounds like a well set up engine, especially as it starts first kick! This is all a bit like reading a medical journey, before you were fit and healthy and now a few pages in you’ve got all the symptoms of some of the worst diseases known to man?????????☠️....??‍♂️?‍??‍♀️

Think you’ll find that the TY 200 (not a cMajesty is it...that will be a world away from a standard TY) is a bit shorter than the Beamish so this will increase the feel of handiness with the TY. Not certain but I think some Beamish frames had shortened swinging arms. You could try slightly longer rear suspension units as the change in height at the rear will influence the steering making it slightly quicker. An alternative is to move the rear suspension mounts to give an increase in lift at the rear. If achievable, dropping the front forks in their yokes by 2-3 mm will also give a small improvement but at the cost of a little ground clearance being given up. Hope this is useful??

As I found with my M80 when rebuilding the crankshaft there are one or two differences that need to be watched for. In Motion sorted the parts for me but I ended up with a small end that needed spacers to my mind, but In Motion assured me that no spacers were needed. Bultaco relied on the minimal side play in the big end to keep the con rod aligned; however In Motion supplied me with a couple of spacers that did the job perfectly. Here are a few pictures to show differences in old and new bearings and con rod. The small end spacers used were stepped. Needles to say after sorting it all out I was very pleased with the finished result, even though you cannot see it. Crankshaft main bearings you can either go with one each side and gain in less frictional losses or fit two main bearings on the drive side for added strength. The crankshaft oil seals again you can fit one each side, but most including me have two seals on each side and these are fitted back to back to prevent crankcase compression loss and to help prevent air being drawn in. Hope this helps??

Be careful turning that engine back against its normal direction of rotation (dor) some cam chain tensioners will break if you do this, better to go round again in the normal dor.?k

Wish they all looked as nice as yours. Hope you get it back real soon.

You may find that with the crankshaft nut released and a bit of gentle wiggling and inertia persuasion that the flywheel may come lose. The best method though is to use the correct tool. I don’t know the thread size but I’m sure you can get a puller for about £10-15 which is a good investment.

You could try holding a thermometer against the cylinder head as this in theory will be the hottest part save for the exhaust port area. You can buy for about £14 a multi-meter with thermo probe attachment which is very useful. Alternatively you could temporarily remove fan connector and power the fan up or remove temp sensor connector and bridge both terminals in the wire connector, this should run fan. Before you do all of this make sure the fan is free to turn and not trapped by a dislodged cover etc.

Flakes were everywhere then 42 years ago but not so sure about the kinder eggs, think they were more 90’s ish! ?️‍♂️?

The reed valves should be closed with no gaps that you can see daylight through. Initially remove reed valve and ensure it’s not bent or distorted. Refit carefully to the block. Have you made sure the throttle slide can move freely up and down? By the sound of the engine and the age I would be looking to change those crankcase oil seals anyway, lube the lips of the new ones with either 2T oil or silicon grease sparingly if you will, the seals allow crankcase compression to escape taking with it some of the fuel and air, on revving up and then shutting down the seals allow air to be sucked into the crankcase which lets the engine run too fast for too long back down to idle. While you’re in there you can check the main bearings for excess carbon which does get in and cause frictional losses and eventually failure. From the sound of the engine on the video it is ok ? mechanically, but it’s easy to make sweeping statements. By doing the work you will become more confident in the bike and know your way around so if it stops miles from anywhere you may have a chance of fixing it.?

Torn apart and either flogged on that well known auction site on-line, or potentially literally ridden to death and junked. I tend to look at old barns in a new light, wondering what delights and hidden gems are waiting to be discovered. Years ago a friends older brother who had the bike bug and rode a BSA C15S also hankered after off-road stuff and built a BSA Bantam Trials bike. But he could also draw a bit and pinned to the workshop wall ( his Dad was a plumber) was a drawing depicting an old scrambles bike covered in cob webs and dust, written across the top was ‘barn find’. So even in the 60’s some of us were at it then!!!!

So still a cheap......?

Think you’ll find that the factory used the welded on bolt route as standard, except the bolts were shouldered type so the shock or more correctly the damper eye bush sat on the shoulder....smooth section.

Google or tytrials they have sold out of the ignition cover but it may well be worth talking with them as more might be around. Good luck?