user7743

I would say there is a lot to do with technique rather than outright strength. If you are "at based" and have a bike stand with you, kick it on the stand, both feet on the pegs to get good purchase to kick it. If no stand, but there is a wall, go with that. Someone I ride with also had issues before moving to a TRRS with e-start. Right side rather than left but the principle is the same, he would stand on anything with his none kicking foot - such as a rock. Again, additional height I would say there is a lot to do with technique rather than outright strength. If you are "at base" and have a bike stand with you, kick it whilst on the stand, both feet on the pegs to get good purchase to kick it. If no stand, but there is a wall, go with that. Someone I ride with also had issues before moving to a TRRS with e-start. Right side rather than left but the principle is the same, he would stand on anything with his none kicking foot - such as a rock. Again, additional height gave enough purchase and the ability to use gravity + body weight as an assist. If its cold, don't be afraid to flick the choke on to get it first started. It should be easy to start, my almost 10 year old Evo will still start first kick when warm, maybe two from cold. So if you have the technique down and its still not firing easily, check nothing is amis. I appreciate you're not saying its a pig to start, just adding for reference as they are not hard to start when you have the how down. gave enough purchase and the ability to use gravity + body weight. If its cold, dont be afraid to flick the choke on to get it first started. It should be asy to start, my almost 10 year old Evo will still start first kick when warm, maybe two from cold. So if you have the techniqure down and its still not firing easily, check nothing is amis (I appreciate you're not saying its a pig to start, just adding for reference as they are not hard to start when you have the how down.

Appreciate the feedback. I have the contact of a "local" trials suspension company. Given the local labour costs I am curious what kind of price pont we would be talking for such work.

Hi all, Looking for a bit of info the shock and serviceability of it. I have an Evo Factory from 2017 (250). Its not had anything done to the shock in a while. How serviceable are these units? Maybe I am remembering wrongly but I seem to remember reading once upon a time that they are not very serviceable. I know a lot say its not worth upgrading the standard shock if you're not a top flight rider but what would you recommend - investing in a full service or replacing with something aftermarket? For reference, I am far from top flight - definite Sunday wobbler. Thanks all.

Thanks all. I suspected it would be something similar.

Hi all, I need to change my fork oil and seals on a 2017 Factory. I was looking at the right hand fork and realised its not the standard square bolt for cap fitting. Does anyone know the proper way to remove the fork cap on this? You can see what I mean in the picture. Thanks!

Thanks for the input. I figured after 8 years of use they could do with a refresh (front and rear) regardless of Beta upping the quality in the later years. I also have no idea when they were last serviced, I have only had the bike since spring. My tendency was also towards the progressive - if only because of the weight rating. They are probably better suited than a standard spring. The choices for the rear seem to be a little easier to decode.

Hi all, I am soon going to be tearing my forks down for a refresh. The bike is a 2010 Evo 250 two stroke. I have read that the 2010/2011 fork spring isn't so good and can collapse pretty "quickly". What I am looking for is what is the best replacement? I have seen that trials and tribulations in the UK offer an uprated progressive spring. I have also seen people say take a later "standard" Evo spring from 2012 on. Any hints on what the best options are? If its the standard Evo spring, does year make any significant difference or just "post 2011"? Thanks in advance.

Cheers Dan. And just for reference - springs were measured at 32.95 and 33.49mm in length between the 6. I am going to go out and see if I can test it now and see how things go. Temps are lower today so will be a decent test to see how long things "hold" for and if I get slip.

Will do. Any idea what spec they should be? I cant see anything in the manual. I have been out and smoothed the fingers on the friction plates and measured the material. Anyone know the minimum thickness? I am sure I have read it somewhere but I cannot find it for the life of me. The friction plates come out with the following thicknesses in mm: Plate 1: 2.72 to 2.84 Plate 2: 2.68 - 2.72 Plate 3: 2.69 - 2.72 Plate 4: 2.70 - 2.73 Plate 5: 2.69 - 2.72 Plate 6: 2.70 - 2.73 After lunch, back out to put it all back together.

To be fair, it could well be that the issue was there before with the original oil, but not manifesting itself given the lower temps when I bought to the bike. I am going to check the fingers on the friction plates to make sure I really have flattened them off and also measure the thickness. See where that takes me. If this doesn't rectify, I think I jump straight to ordering a new set of friction plates. Its probably cheaper in the long run when taking the man hours into account ;-)

Unfortunately it hasn't solved the issue... It seemed to hold out longer (or I was riding lighter because of the warmth ;-) ) but after a while I did start to slip again. What would you look at next? Roughing up the steel plates a little? If so what grade of emery cloth would you use? I would also look to measuring the friction plates whilst having it open and see how much they have on them. Anything else to look at to get to the bottom of this one? Thanks for the help so far!

So far so good. Ordered the Putoline whilst I was travelling and it arrived Friday afternoon. Yesterday I managed to get an hour and drop the Motul and put the fresh Putoline in. I didn't get much more than an hour riding in, but so far so good. I should get some more time today (and the ambient temp is forecast for 25°) so it should be a good test. That said, I'm hopefully based on yesterdays limited test (I've not been riding trials for long so thee finer feel of things isn't yet there). One thing is for sure, no more Motul Transoil for me ?

I assume when it comes to the Putoilne GP10, the SAE75 rating is okay for a Beta clutch? I'll order some and hopefully it will be there when I get back at the end of the week and I can give it a bash.

Hi Dan, Yes, I performed the tab polish as well as clearing the glue from between the friction pads. The cold clutch drag beforehand was mega - the bike would basically run away as soon as you engaged a gear. After the mod, just a more familiar "clunk" on engagement. When you say steels - do you refer to the plain steel rings between the friction rings? Master cylinder play should be okay - it hasn't been changed since I initially set the bike up for me, but I am fairly confident there is plenty of free play there. What would be strange to me is why this issue hadn't manifested itself before it it was down to free play. I let a bit of oil out when I can back yesterday so it is lower in the sight glass, but I wont get to try this until next weekend as I am away for the week. To me it seems to be the kind of problem you hear of where the wrong oil is used on a street bike and causes clutch slip when the oil is warmed and less viscous. Hence my question to the specific Motul oil.

Hi all, I have a (new to me) Beta Evo 250 from 2010. Had it for a couple of months and given the clutch was sticky I did the clutch mod. That solved the cold drag. Fast forward a few weeks and two things have happened. Firstly, I did an oil change last week and put in some Motul Transoil 10W30. Secondly, the weather has upped its game from hardly above 0 the first few times i rode, to 25+ today. After everything got nice and hot, the clutch got to slipping like mad; to the point that I couldn't pull up bigger hills nor loft the wheel with the clutch or power alone... Just a bag full of slip. I guess my questions, anyone have experience of Motul's Transoil in a Beta? Is that likely be the crux of my issues? I felt the oil was low when I changed it, as it was barley visible in the sight glass when warm. After my change it is a per manual, always visible (when upright) both from hot and cold. Is too much oil going to be giving me issues? Or is it that I have just found a weak point of the bike that was there before but given the cold wasnt showing itself? Hopefully you can point me in the right direction before I go trying loads of different things and getting nowhere... Thanks in advance!