clarkp

Also interesting... almost 10% of the competitors DNF'd on the last day alone - they had completed all of the first five days but didn't finish the last day. The results don't show if they started, only that they did not finish. My guess is that some of these guys just threw in the towel and headed for home (or the pub). This 10% was made up of 2 Betas 8 Gas Gas 2 Montesas 3 Scorpas 5 Shercos

As I clearly stated in my post there is no way to understand the reason for the DNF - I'm just looking at the numbers - draw your own conclusions. I'm not looking for the best bike for Scotland... and, of course, the numbers for Yamaha, Fantic, etc. are not what I'm interested in, only the majors: Beta, Montesa, Scorpa, Sherco, and Gas Gas - the others are only background noise. My numbers came directly from the SSDT posted results (on their web site) for bikes entered in the event and bikes that finished each day - there were about 16 entries that had no brand listed (as Highland Lassie noted as well) so there may be some of the number match-up issues between mine and HL's.

I'm embarrassed to say that I had the time to count the bikes starting and finishing the SSDT. This information came directly from the SSDT web posting of results for this year. The following information came to light: Started DNC DNC % Aprilia 1 1 100% Beta 65 17 26% Fantic 1 0 0% Gas Gas 59 15 25% Montesa 51 10 20% Scorpa 21 8 38% Sherco 60 20 33% Yamaha 6 0 0% Where the first number after the brand name is the number of bikes entered, the second number is the number of bikes that DNF'd at least one of the six days, and the last number is the ratio of the first two. Obviously, a lower percentage means more bikes finished all six days (zero is better than 100). This does not account for the reason of the DNC (broken bike, broken rider, too tired, too wet, too cold, etc.) only that the bike did not complete ALL six days. I noticed that many riders DNF'd on the last day (don't know why...) which may skew the results.

The latest edition of Trials Competition newletters does an expose' on factory rider Ray Peters' BETA 270 / 280 - it states that he is running the NGK BP7ES... and V-Force reeds, instead of the Champion plug.

I just lifted this from the 'Sherco / Bultaco' forum... interesting... Informal count of the numbers of bikes of each brand competing in the SSDT... Beta 65 Sherco 60 Gas Gas 59 Montesa 51 Scorpa 21 Yamaha 6 Aprilla 1 Fantic 1 There were 16 riders who did not state what brand bike they were riding.

According to the US importer, the timing will be pretty close to stock if the stator plate is rotated such that there is an equal amount of 'slot' on each side of the stator plate screws; that is, the screws are in the middle of their adjusting slots. Mine was fairly advanced (stator plate adjusted opposite the crank rotation almost to the end of the slots) and I set it to the middle. Now all is well (I still have some occasional pinging that I consider acceptable).

Take a few minutes to read the 'Pinging Beta' thread on this forum - you might find some clues. I'm betting that your blue smoke and pinging happens after you've ridden for quite a while, yes / no? If yes, then blue smoke is a result of unburnt oil and spooge in the mid-muffler getting hot enough to start burning off - this lays down a fairly good smoke screen and it really stinks. The pinging can also be happening because the bike is hot or hotter than on other rides - the pinging and blue smoke happen together. Check your timing and make sure you're using a high quality / octane fuel blend.

REV'er gives good advice - call your importer first. If the quick disconnect from the stator wiring harness to the 'brain' wiring harness is the same from both bikes you probably have the same unit and you can complete your test. If its different, I wouldn't proceed with the test swap without checking with the importer. The QD seems to be a good way for BETA to keep the stators and brains with the correct respective unit... different timing maps / spark advance curves, etc.

... you'll be back beta boy... they always come back...

Guys, guys... remember... he is only 14 yrs. old, not exactly a 'seasoned' rider with the knowledge or experience background to provide a 'considered' opinion; just an opinion... and yes, he is a prolific poster. With his internet connection, I'm surprised he can keep his hands on the keyboard long enough to post. OBTW... 'one off' should be hyphenated... in my opinion...

I found this link to a spark plug cross-reference spreadsheet, if anyone's interested. The file is large use DSL or cable modem. Looks like the Champion N7YC crosses to: NGK BP7ES BOSCH W5DC (or WR5DC for resistor plug) many others are listed as well... Is the BP5ES 'hotter' or 'colder' than the BP7ES?

What NGK plug are people running?

My Rev-3 250 was delivered to me with an NGK BP5ES installed. I switched out to the Beta-specified Champion N7YC (couldn't find the N7YCC - Copper Core). What is everyone else running in the 250 / 270 REV-3? Is there a cross-reference to a Bosch part number?

neos - I just moved an old thread about 'Pinging Beta' to the top - lots of factors, lots of fixes... good luck; timing fixed my problem.

top

Get in touch with BETA USA (802) 425-2081 and order a brake master cylinder rebuild kit. If you've had water in the system, you'll have to lightly hone the master cylinder and replace all the brake fluid with fresh.

I want to hear about the GasGas to Beta move... reasons, likes, dislikes, etc. The REV-3 holds: 3.2 L fuel in tank with 1 L reserve 600cc of coolant 550cc of tranny fluid 370cc in right fork leg 350cc in left fork leg The manual states 1.5% oil to gas mixture when using synthetic oil which works out to 66:1 ratio. Lots of people (including me) run 80:1 with no problems. Manual states the use of Champion N7YCC spark plug Recommended Lubricants and liquids: Transmission oil: Ipone "DUALGRADE 20W30" Premix oil: Ipone "Top Race 2" Brake and clutch oil DOT 5 Dry weight 75.5 kg (for the 250)

Stu - first of all, I can't believe no one's made any cracks about your 'loose nuts' - I couldn't resist, even as obvious as it is... Why are you shying away from just retapping the holes to the next larger size bolt? That way you can tap the holes to fit whatever style bolt you want. You might even try countersinking the bash plate to receive a countersunk head screw / bolt so your rock encounters won't have as much of an adverse affect. You can buy the tap and get a piece of aluminum to practice on... drill a slightly smaller hole and run the tap through to get the feel of it.

techno98 - There are a lot of places to start, but you can go off the deep end pretty quickly - go ahead and try the advanced timing to see what you think, then I would opt for a more measured approach... something like: Fresh set of rings with a light cylinder hone Try Aktive AND Boyessen reeds - Aktive is better for bottom end and Boyessen is better for more power. Thinner head gasket (if available) The other options are cylinder porting but you can end up with something you don't like if done by the inexperienced - and your only recourse at that time would be a whole new top end to get back to zero. I think a combination of fresh rings, reeds, and hotter timing might surprise you.

So you had the top end apart... did you change the rings? did you drop a circlip into the cases? Did the rings get seated properly or did you have trouble getting the jug back down over the piston / ring assy? Since you are familiar with pulling the top end down - I'd do it again and check things out before you DO have a problem with the big end. Either way, you better break into your beer stash to pay for this...

AMiller - you say you're using Ipone now, how's that working for you - I would guess that you still have some drag on the clutch, probably more than you had with the ATF. I doubt that motor life would be compromised using ATF - there's nothing other than the transmission and shifting internals that are lubed by the tranny / clutch oil - the main bearings are fed by your premix. Thinner oil should work better because it has less 'stiction' than a thicker oil.

The zip-tie technique will work ONLY if you use really small zip ties - otherwise the ties will hold and the fender will break again. Its too bad Beta doesn't have a flexy fender like Scorpa does - maybe we can graft a Scorpa fender to the Beta... hmm, French parts on an Italian bike - that can't work...

Andy - goto http://www.cafepress.com - give them the artwork and they'll print up t-shirts, coffee mugs, etc. and sell them online for you. Of course, they'll extract a tidy sum, but 70% of something is better than 100% of nothing.

Maybe that's why the inner fiber plate on my old '97 Montesa was missing about half its fiber pucks... Thanks OD!

OK - my Rev-3 was delivered from previous owner with the clutch / tranny filled with ATF. I switched over to Torco MTF because Ron Commo suggested switching to some type of motorcycle transmission fluid. The Torco MTF seems thicker than ATF and my clutch definitely drags - a little even when its hot (I've bled the clutch, it also has a rebuilt clutch master cylinder on it...). Logic leads me to think that ATF would make the clutch drag less because its lighter or thinner than the MTF. Who uses what, which works better, should I switch back to ATF, if so, what brand?