alphadecay

Someone emailed me a manual.. Thanks.

I just picked up a used 2006 4RT but it didn't come with a manual. Can someone email me the pdf ( hadron@tjee.org ) or message me with a link where I can download it? Beyond general information, I'd like to change the oil in the forks - so if anyone can tell me what the stock weight is for the front forks and any tips or tidbits on how I should go about changing the oil I'd be most appreciative. Although I've fiddled with the rebound and compression adjuster the forks just aren't as lively as they should be (compared to a back to back with another 4RT). Thanks. --Tim

Its an economy of scale on the mx front. If you can sell a billion fenders then the per unit cost on making them drops for a given production run.

TooFastTim: I use AlphaDecay as my username cause I have a graduate degree in physics, so its a science type username thing is all. Jezza: Most everything you said is right. It must have already been full soft so it couldn't loosen anymore. So like you said, the end result doesn't really change anything from where it started. I rode all day sunday with it like that and didn't notice much of anything so it'll probably be ok to leave it as is. After watching that video (which I have on DVD) I kick myself as he discusses the exact issue that I experienced. --Tim

As it appears to work (if a bit too softly) I'll just stick with it for now since funds are a bit tight.

So I took apart the rear end today to regrease everything, etc. While I was at it I decided to soften the rear end a bit and I tried to loosen the compression adjuster towards "soft" and I guess I obviously applied too much pressure and sheared the adjuster apart at the threaded end. So currently I have the screw head in my hand, I can see where it threads into the back of the base of the shock (with the remaining portion of the screw still embedded in there) and I can also see the small nub that the screw must push against to adjust the compression damping. So I have two questions: 1.) Will I have to buy a new shock to fix this issue or has anyone known of any success in removing the embedded threaded portion and replacing the screw with a new one? 2.) Whilst I await a repair or new shock, would it damage the existing shock if I rode on it with that adjuster removed? I plan on covering the hole so no dirt/water can get in there. Thanks. --Tim

I've had success with using brake/carb cleaner spray on the disc and then using a fine sandpaper to lightly resurface the pads. Use a clean dry rag/towel and make sure the cleaner has time to evaporate and dry off. When doing the pads put the sandpaper on a very flat surface (rough side up) and then in a circular motion rub the pad on the sandpaper to create a new level surface. Then I take the bike out and give the brake a decent workout to heat it up and re-bed the pads to the disc.

Took off the tank and checked the breather tube, didn't see any blockage and the one-way air flow connector looks to be in the correct direction and working. Only thing I see was the tube was just shoved inside the frame, it did not poke through that little opening on the underside of the frame. It seems unlikely but maybe the hose was resting on something inside and vacuum sealed against it. I'll give it a test run up the forest road again next weekend. Thanks for the input. --Tim

Probably at about 1000ft elevation (above sea level) and stock jetting on the stock carburetor. The bike didn't seize as it did kick over, it just wouldn't start up. After oil quantity my next step will be to check the gas breather as maybe it did just suffocate and not get enough gas.

Ok. I can understand if that was the problem. I was going off of the www.gasgas.com tech site recommendation (350cc) which brought it to 75% of window height. Further searching the forums here does say that 400-450 is good as anything more will get tossed out of the vent tube (manual reccomends 550cc). I'll change the oil today and put in more this time around. --Tim

FYI: I'm new to 2-stroke bikes, so I'm just learning the in's and out's of the motors and such. So I do have quite a few questions. Just over a month ago I bought a barely used 2004 TXT Pro 300 (not even a single scuff on the bodywork). Anyway, yesterday I was in 6th gear going up a dirt road (gently sloped upward) and after about 1 mile of this the bike died. It basically sputtered and quit. Exhaust smelled a bit funky. Kicked it a few times, nothing. Waited 5 minutes and it fired right up. I've never had a problem with the bike under normal trials-like conditions (the fan does come on fairly quickly when puttering around in 1st doing obstacles), and this was the first time I took the bike out and bombed up a road at such speed for the distance that I did. So my questions after this experience are: Is what I experienced just 'normal' overheating? My concern is if this can happen at 75F in temperate Washington, will I be overheating alot (meaning during slow trials riding) when I take this thing out to eastern Montana at 90F? Should I be concerned or do anything to the bike? In the future if this was to occur again, how should I deal with it? (I was worried I'd seize the engine or something if I overheated it and let it sit) How should I approach long, fast stretches like this if flying through it in 6th can cause problems? Using 80:1, 100LL Aviation Gas Yamalube 2-stroke synthetic for gas treatment 350cc of Dextron III ATF for oil Checked radiator fluid, its a nice green, filled to top of radiator Thank you for your time. --Tim