jse

Unless changed to DOT-5 (Silicone) previously, use DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluid. Jon

Rob, I'd replace the banjo/nipple combination and I think the standard European banjo bolt thread is 10 X 1.0 Jon

I think I understand what you mean, I know I fall over a lot more than Raga.... Jon

You can use DOT-5 with anything (only if the whole system is flushed is it a good idea to change types of fluid) and DOT- 5.1, 4 and 3 are interchangable in a system designed for that type from what I understand. Mineral oil is necessary in the "green" systems and you can use Silicone (DOT-5) if the system is flushed, but nothing else. I'm guessing (again, with a flushed system) you might be able to use mineral oil in a DOT-5.1, 4, 3 system but I would probably change the seals/o-rings just to be safe. As your M/C has the green top, I'd use only mineral oil (the special clutch type, NOT the drug store stuff) or if you flush the system, you can change to DOT-5, which I understand makes the clutch about 20% smoother. I convert all my clutch systems to DOT-5 since it is unusually inert and does not eat the M/C rubber boot and it's a lot easier to work with when bleeding the system. Jon

Appears to be a Keihin based on the screws on the slide cap, shape of the floatbowl and bell configuation. The angular "stealth plane" styling is quite refreshing, can't wait to see one in person! Jon

Bear Valley is a great place to ride. You and I have probably met before, a long time ago, maybe up at Redwood Road. Welcome back! I attended the meetings at the High School now and then. Jon

"Father Joe-Bono seems to be a dead American orphan with 65 million quid...." Well, he twitches now and then, so we have to wack him again with the baseball bat, so we're pretty sure he'll be dead soon........ Jon

Correct, and the Raga edition used mineral oil in the 04' model. A lot of the updates for the coming year appear on Raga's bike first, such as the new frame for instance, and I guess they feel if Adam can't break it, it should work for the average rider...... Jon

It is interesting that, with minor exception, the standard bore for the GasGas clutch master cylinders is 9.5mm for both the Edition and Pro models. They are, of course, quite different clutches, which may explain the difference in bore sizes as the Pro looks like it requires a longer effective stroke due to the servo cylinder acting on the clutch fingers, that in turn act on the pressure plate. The Edition servo cylinder, in effect, acts directly on the pressure plate.. I would imagine that you'll find the 9.5mm M/C bore fairly common for a lot of the bikes. Jon

Not sure of the depth (the "effective stroke" would be a better gauge), but the GasGas "Edition" type model, say a 2001 TXT has a servo cylinder bore of 28.5mm+-, and the Pro model, 2002 on up, has a servo cylinder diameter of 14.34+-mm. Jon

Hmmmmm, Easy for me to get sidetracked. Beta_boi, did you ever find out what the cause was? Jon

Thanks, Dan. When I lived in Silicon Valley, an MSEE was an arm's (or a handlebar's) reach away, but here in the Midwest, kinda hard to find. Gordon Jenning's two-stroke tuner's handbook has been one of my favorites since it was released (1973) and I got mine in the early 70's and mine is well worn. They cost $5.95 then, but go for about $100 on Amazon now. Gordon's overall insights were way ahead of any body else for the most part and there was a lifetime of race tuning info packed into 156 pages. I figure I should start researching since the trend is to electronic FI and my background is mechanical, though if you have any questions about Hillborn, Algon or Enderle injection systems ( or the old Rochester "doghouse" system on the 57' Vettes), let me know..... Jon

Thanks, Dan! I was misinformed and gonna give my engineer buddy who told me that a poke in the eye (even though I may have misunderstood, it's still fun to poke this guy in the eye...). Electronics is not his speciality, and obviously, not mine. Have you got the name a good basic book that I might obtain so that I can catch up on some of the basics? Something that would relate to a bike electronics would be helpful, especially in view of the more complex CDI and FI systems we are sure to encounter more often. Jon

Neat, welcome! I was with the PITS bunch since the early 70's and President of the San Jose chapter when we had chapters in several cities, Redwood City, San Jose, East Bay, Sacramento, Coalinga etc. Great group of people and they put on great events. I've been out here in the Midwest for about 10 years now and am very active with the two clubs here in Oklahoma and if I can ever get some time off from helping at our Octobertest event, I'm going to sneak out there and ride the Geritol Trial some time. Tell everybody that Jon says hi and to take good care of you. Welcome to the TC forums. Cheers. Jon

Though, not to get too pedantic, that's true. A "thermostat" in cooling systems is generally a mechanical, bi-metal, device that regulates coolant flow according to a preset temperature range. In just about all the Trials bikes I know, a "COOLANT TEMPERATURE SWITCH !" is sometimes known as a "thermocouple", and is a temperature sensor (on/off switch rather than say, a light dimmer, that "regulates" output, as a coolant "thermostat" might do) that monitors coolant temperature without interrupting flow of the fluid. The fan, when turned on by the thermocouple, is what does the added cooling by drawing more air over the radiator fins. Jon

I've found the same situation with my GG's also. If the bike sits at a section for any length of time, unless it fires on the 2nd kick (it usually fires off first kick), it needs the choke. Not a big problem as, once I know the drill, I just flip the choke and it fires right off. I've had the condition with both the Ducati and Kokusan ign systems, but my guess it that it's somehow fuel related. Hasn't been enough of a problem to spend time figuring it out, though. For good extra-cold starting I drilled out the starter jet to .8mm (.031") and an NGK BPR5EIX at .024". No matter how cold it gets, it's a 2nd-kick starter every time. Jon

Same plug: NGK BPR5EIX at .024". I've had one in my 02' 280 Pro for over a year. Resists fouling (never in the last year, so far) and shows very little wear, I checked mine a couple of months ago and it was still where I had set it. It cost a little more but has proved to be a bargain in the long run. Jon

I think the first Ute Cup was held in 1970, but a year or two may have been missed. The Quarry Cup is a bunch of fun and MATT always takes good care of all the riders. If you haven't been, you really need to go. Jon

Great! I promise I won't make you ride my old TY this time (it's running MUCH better). I'd be very interested in riding your 4T as I only rode the first version that came out and they have undergone some major changes since then. My buddies in California have them and think they are wonderful! We'll be back from Germany on the 15th, so I'll see you after that when I come up to help set up. Jon

I know Wayne's daughter, who lives in Oklahoma and will probably see her tomorrow night as we're having our NEOTT Trials club meeting at her place. You only have to talk with her for a few minutes to understand she is one of the nicest and brightest persons you will ever meet. Although I still can't understand how she puts up with me, it's obvious that her Dad has taught her what she needs to know to be a really neat person. Wayne, ya done good. Jon

I wouldn't either, that guy's full of crap.......both of them....... Jon ps. forgot to mention, you might try lowering the needle clip (raising the needle) one groove to see if it makes a difference, it will give you an indication if the noise is fuel delivery related.

New Segway X2........$5595 Materials/labor to adapt..................$2000+- Ambulance, ER room, reconstructive surgery, nursing costs, medical appliances for mobility etc. after all the other riders attack you when you pick up your first place trophy...................................................priceless Jon

I've seen modified mid-mufflers that have a large retangle cut out of the back and then re-welded after messing with the internals on factory bikes. That way, you don't have to worry about misalignment of the end collars where the headpipe and final muffler attach (before you try to take the rectangle off, take care to carefully grind off the rosette weld on the rectangle in order to release the internal brace from the flap). I would imagine that a perforated core (that would fit the internal diameter of the collars inside) could be cut in half, inserted in the mid-muffler and then tacked together, the muffler re-packed and the flap welded back on, taking care to rosette weld the internal braces. The "rosette" welds (small, round weld marks) on the outside of the mid-muffler (like the one that you would align the kickstart lever angle to) are at the ends of internal braces that connect the left and right shells in order to dampen the pulses that would quickly cause cracks in the muffler due to exhaust pressure/pulses. You might try that first as those buggers are expensive. Jon

The Pro's can usually handle 91/92 octane (provided the jetting is correct), unlike the older engines that usually were happy with 95 octane. A lot of riders use a 50/50 mix of pump and race fuel and I run straight 110 race fuel to soften the engine response as I'm an old geezer who can't ride worth a squat..... Your jetting should be in the range (sea level approx): MAIN: 107 PILOT: S36 (I think the VHST takes a different pilot from the "normal" Dellorto PHBL used on the other years) NEEDLE: D48 (2ND FROM BOTTOM OF FIVE) FUEL SCREW: 3.5 TURNS OUT (to start with. After warm-up, quickly blip the throttle and adjust screw in/out to get best response) FLOAT HEIGHT: FLOAT ARMS PARALELL WITH FLOAT BOWL BASE I understand your experience, I came into the more modern bikes of the 80's and 90's from the OSSA and Sherpa T bikes and worked up to the Pro, but you're jumping right in..... Jon

As I remember, you have an 03' Pro, so lets look at some outside adjustments before getting into the clutch proper (you will be shocked at this clutch if it's been 30 years). It has one spring, a coned washer called a Belville spring, and a 3-fiber/2-steel disk pack. The main problem I see with new riders used to cable control, rather hydraulic systems, is that they mistake how the adjustment screw on the lever works and assume that tightening it up will give more clutch throw, but the opposite is true. It's only to set the clearance at the plunger rod that goes through the rubber boot on the master cylinder. GasGas clutches do not totally release as a rule so a very slight amount of drag is normal and it keeps the slack out of the drivetrain. The piston in the M/C must retract fully back to the circlip under the rubber boot so that the bleed hole between the M/C bore and the reservoir is opened so the system can equalize. There should be a few thousandth clearance where the lever adjustment screw meets the M/C piston plunger. In the 03', you probably will use about 400cc's of a light fluid like Dexron ATF in the transmission and change it about every 5-10 hours max. The crank main bearings are lubed by the transmission fluid, not premix. Try the lever adjustment for a start and see if it makes any difference. Make sure you have the lever adjusted out far enough to get a full throw of the piston, these M/C bores are only 9.5mm and don't displace a lot of fluid. When I moved from a JTR370 to a Pro, a lot of the lines in my face went away as I quit wincing every time I had to ride rough sections. The reduction of weight was a little disconcerning at first, but you'll learn to let the bike glide over stuff you had to plow into in the past. Jon