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I've found a site in Germany: http://www.gasgas.de/ but the early parts lists are essentially unreadable, even in Spanish. The TrialsPartsUSA is about the best I know of for all-around info. Jon

I think the LC's came with VM26's, which would be good for most upper displacement Trials bikes. I've got one on my TY350 and it's been bulletproof and not antsy to tune, and once set, it takes a big change in atmospheric conditions to throw it off (like going from sea level to 8200 ft.). Jon

It might be condensation due to prolonged storage, but probably the waterpump seal is in need of replacement. I'm trying to remember if the 93' was the year of the crankcase cooling system and if so, you might have case corrosion problems to deal with. You should be able to get parts from your local dealer but the engine should be inspected asap. Jon

I've used them in all my bikes for many years. They tend to smooth out the bottom power delivery and flow well at high RPM. The Boyesen's are the only true "dual-stage" reeds, in spite of what the other makers advertize. The (very) basic idea in reed design is that thicker reeds work better at mid/high RPMs and the thinner, more flexable are more responsive at lower RPMs and the Boyesens combine the two. There are two-reed systems (a shorter reed over a long one) and while this can be more responsive than a single reed over a range of RPMs, the shorter is essentially a "back-up" and works much the same way that shims work in a shim stack in suspension damping systems. Jon

Brian, Good one. I had a 28' T at one time and, of course, they also had the fuel tank essentially sitting in the driver's lap and gravity feed to the carb. Jon Come to think about it, even after I "massaged" the 28' a "little", it had a hand-pressurized Moon fuel tank on the passengers floor board, so things didn't change THAT much.

I hurd dat! Nowadays, if you saw Copey and I at the side of the road hitchiking, would YOU pick us up? Jon On second thought, If I could talk Copey into putting away that darn chainsaw he likes to drag around, maybe we'd have a better chance.....

Andyh, You'll find a lot of goodies at http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html and other than graphics and plastic, the 2001 manual should cover just about all your bike parts from what I remember. As far as I know, the "Andorra" designation referred to graphics, rather than mechanical differences. The "2002", I'm guessing, is just the end numbers of the parts number of the swingarm. The 2000 on up models were at the end of their evolutionary chain and quite bulletproof if taken care of in a reasonable way (i.e. as recommended). As in buying any used bike, do NOT make any assumptions as to the level of care from the previous owner. You'll want to check and lube ALL bearings on the whole bike and refresh all fluids if you want reliable performance in the future. Jon

I probably saw Willie at the Catalyst on Pacific Ave. at one time or another.Don't know about the pizza, but from many years of experience, Hwy 1 is probably the best stretch of road to spend a Sunday on a sportbike! If Peter and Marilyn can make it out here for the Octobertest on the 18th and 19th, I'll be back from Germany by that time and Mark and I will try to see that they feel welcome! Jon

The PHBH26 (probably a "CS" model) is the "large body" Dellorto used on the 1996 JTR370 GasGas Trials and some Fantic models for a few years that I'm aware of. It's a little "cranky" to tune correctly but, if your Mono came with a Tekei, like my 85' Mono came with, probably a step up (I have a Mikuni on mine now). I also had a 96' JTR370 and changed to a 28 Keihin. The carb has a fairly wide spigot so it might stretch some manifolds, resulting in cracks in some cases, and it's the reason why the 96' 370 manifold is often used in GG Keihin conversions as the spigot diameter is essentially the same as the 28 Keihin. The Fantic guys always need parts and could probably use it (I just gave my old PHBH to a Fantic owner) so it does have value. Hope this helps. Jon

Wow, That must have been you I saw wandering downtown in Santa Cruz at the beach about that time. You should have said something, I would have loaned you one of my surfing wetsuits to sleep in......... Jon

Man, you really ARE lucky, I've only won the NL lottery once! Course, I bet I'm still the favorite of the Nigerian Princess's wanting to move large amounts of cash, probably because I always give them Copemech's name as a reference..... Jon Mark, When I was a wee lad working my way through school as a mechanic, the standard ritual for breaking in a brand new shop helper was to send them to the parts store for a box of diesel spark plugs......

Weedes, The main idea is to have fun on the bike (easy to do on a Trials bike), but just think, your new buff forearms and legs will dazzle the ladies. I'd probably advise to re-lube all the bearings and not go by lack of freeplay. When you feel freeplay, the bearings are lunched and it's too late. Jon

Well, Lucky, Seems they sent me your check by mistake and I'll forward it down to you Mark, for 10% up front.... Here's the stuff I'm getting (one of the joys of having your personal e-mail address on several websites): "HELLO SIR/MADAM, HOW ARE YOU AND BUSINESS HOPE FINE IF SO SPLENDID. I'LL WANT YOU TO KINDLY GET ME THE PRICES AND AVAILABILITY FOR THIS LISTED PARTS :- JOHN DEERE FUEL FILTER RE60021 FLEETGUARD OIL FILTER LF9001 FLEETGUARD WATER FILTER WF2126 CHAMPIONS SPARK PLUGS RC12YC NGK SPARK PLUGS BKR5E-11 NGK SPARK PLUGS BKR6E-11 AWAITING YOUR SONEST REPLY WITH THE PRICES AND AVAILABILITY FOR THIS LISTED PRODUCTS STAY BLESSED AND HAVE A GREAT DAY IN BUSINESS...... BEST REGARDS, SHERRY WILLIAMS." My "SONEST REPLY" would have burned a hole in my keyboard....... Jon ps. O.k., o.k., say 5% and the checks in the mail.

I was racing an OSSA flat track bike at the time and the starts of TT races are measured in gallons of adrenaline, testosterone and very close quarters. After the shocking slow down and four riders behind me attempting to instantly shorten my wheelbase a few inches, the "TURN ON THE GAS, STUPID" sticker was on my tank for the next event. Seems like, if you ride an off-road bike for any length of time, you'll sooner or later earn a membership in the WAT club..... Jon

As mentioned, change all fluids (always good on a used bike) and 650-700 cc's of Dexron ATF seems to work well in the trans. Change every 5-10 hours of use to keep it fresh. First thing I'd check is the suspension bearings, and don't forget the one in the front lower part of the swingarm, it's often overlooked. When servicing the forks, take a good look at the steering stem bearings, especially the lower one that takes all the weight. Cheers. Jon

If the rattle disappears when the clutch lever is pulled in, that's normal and probably the fingers from what I can guess (my 02's done it since new and no problems ever with the clutch). If the noise still maintains some volume, you might look at the needle bearings in the clutch basket hub or possibly the thrust bearing on the top hat servo cylinder. Jon.

Actually, a simple kit could be made of expanding plugs (like block expansion plugs for auto blocks) for the exhaust port and a plate for the manifold, a low-pressure gauge (say, 0-15 psi) a couple of fittings and a small tire pump. You can then pressurize the internals to about 5-8 psi and then use soapy water to check for leaks. You could add a small shut-off valve and then see how long it takes for the pressure to drop. Kinda of a lot of trouble, but if you do your own work, it's a cheap tool that can tell you a great deal of information. The left leg seems to take the worst of it......... Jon, sometimes leaky, but usually not cranky.

Erik, I got a new piston kit out of my parts and measured the distance (the ball is installed with the piston when manufactured) and it was 4.5mm from top of ball to flat of the piston. Jon Forgot to mention. Although it's only a wild guess, I'm thinking that perhaps a slight amount of drag is designed into the clutch pack. Just about all the GasGas bikes I've known for over a decade have had a least a slight amount of drag and I would think a company with their experience could make a full-release clutch if they wanted to. It makes finding neutral when stopped a pain but watch bikes in a full-lock tight, slow turn and where you will see some other bikes with full-release clutches crabbing the front tire over the tape, but with the driveline always "loaded", the GasGas seems to be easier to control. Like I say, this is a wild guess based on observation.

We're pretty lucky out here in North Eastern Oklahoma as we have a wide range of both public and private Trials type riding areas and we have a small but enthuiastic group of riders. Usually we have a Trialsmaster and his/her assistant who get first place points for putting on a Trial and we usually have 5-10 helpers that show up several weekends (if necessary) and the Saturday before the event. 8 morning (Beginner to Senior Amateur) and 8 afternoon (Intermediate to Master) sections and three loops is normal for all our club events, morning riders check afternoon sections and vice-versa. Big 2-day events like the Pro payout Octobertest take the whole club to put it on and we start at least a month before. One of the reasons we have usually have enough Trialsmasters may be that we try to make it as absolutely easy as possible for volunteers to put on events. When I first joined the club here I took over the Trials equipment and now make sure it is replenished before every event and personally take it to the next Trialsmaster several weeks before the scheduled Trial and pick it up after the event is over. Two large boxes contain all the necessary forms, markers, tape, stakes, staplers, clipboards, punches etc., plus two folding sign-up tables and an Easy-Up for cover. This takes a lot of the burden off the Trialsmasters who don't have to scrounge for equipment to put on the event like they used to. As in just about every club, there is a core of reliable workers and those that float in and out of participation. Jon

Although it could be an unrelated, coincidential electrical or jetting problem, based on what you've checked so far, I'd probably back up to the last known proceedure that could produce the symptoms, that being the rebuild (assuming no pre-existing problems before) and maybe look at case sealing issues, specifically in the manifold/crankcase-to-transmission areas. I'd start with re-checking all the case capscrews, which can be done without dis-assembling the engine (always try the simple things first) and, if necessary, a leak-down test should be next. A leak-down test is standard operating proceedure upon assembly of any high-level racing two-stroke. Just a thought. Jon

I'll try to upload one of my files from TrialsPartsUSA I finally found, which has all the available parts and part numbers to convert the Keihin, including that neat little wedge reedcage spacer. As for then Sherco, you might want to go over to that forum, there's a lot of info of late about the conversion. Cheers. Jon ps. Yea, the Jon thing is a little Scandinavian (I've got in arguments with people about spelling my first name "wrong") but my last name puts my ancestors directly in England and the Isle of Man.

Ballpark spec.'s to start with are: MAIN: 122 PILOT: 45 (48 OK) NEEDLE: JJH (CENTER OF FIVE POSITIONS) SLIDE: 3.5 AIRSCREW: 2.5 TURNS OUT FLOAT HEIGHT: ARMS IN LEVEL PLANE WITH FLOAT BOWL BASE (PARALLEL) The problem you will undoubtedly run into (literally) is that the air screw and idle adjustment are on the "wrong" side and will be hard, if not impossible to get at. You will need a "Raga" throttle cable as the stock Dellorto is too short in the cable extension and you will need a Raga intake manifold (or a 1996 JTR370, essentially the same) and special spacers to extend and raise the carb body up to clear the engine cases. That's a start, good luck. Jon Almost forgot, if you have an 02' 280, you will also need an 03' on up air boot as the 02' only fits the Dellorto PHBL carb bell.

Since ordering individual assembly parts may be difficult for you under your current dealer circumstances, it may be easier to get a complete gasket kit (part # MT280244100, I think) and that would give you all the gaskets, washers and o-rings you would need. PeterB listed the bearings/seals possibilities and http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...f/media/gasgas/ is access to the on-line video service manuals that were made here in the U.S., which you will want to review several times so that things will look familiar when you open up the engine. There are several little tricks you will need to know upon assembly, like rotating the kickstart shaft a little for the gear to clear the nylon stop so the upper shell will drop on etc. but these should be covered in the video. The rest will be "standard" inspection and measurement, like ring end gap to assess ring wear or inspecting the gear tooth faces and exposed bearings to look for any galling or pitting, but if you find any problems and have a digital camera, you can post photos for opinions. Jon

I've also used the boot oil (mink oil, neatsfoot oil, boot oil etc.) method for many years with good results and found it also helps break-in of new boots. I've got an old set of Hi-Point boots that have to be 20+ years old, probably been re-soled 4 or 5 times, and are still soft, supple and have no cracks in them undoubtedly due to the oil treatment. I always carry an extra bike and riding gear for new riders to try, so these boots still get used a lot. I also tried some stuff called glove softener, which is used to keep baseball gloves soft and that worked too. I'd try the clean, dry, newspaper stuff and oil method. Jon