Junglejeff

Military type boots work decent as some work boots.I have one set of work boots that are actually tougher than my trials boots.I have a set of alpine star adv boots that I have used that were awesome. Paid 80 bucks for them used.

I am a total suspension geek.Started revalving my own shocks back around 95.Even my Africa twin adv bike has some pretty tricked out suspension including experimental ceramic coated fork tubes.My GG300 I left pretty much stock except for the heaviest spring rieger makes(recommended by my chart in manual).I had Jack's trials shop rebuild the shock that last owner messed up.Shock requires some special tools and Jack's is only u.s certified shop with them.After much research I found people like 35% rider sag.My bike steers much better of course with proper spring and it works better everywhere. The stock valving leaves plenty of adjustment on clickers.I Find these bikes are not near as critical as other dirt sports because they are made for a very specific low speed environment.A decent rider can make them do crazy stuff even with a totally blown out shock.I went with the heavier spring because I was bottoming out so easy and afraid of breaking a frame or destroying a very expensive shock.

Were could I purchase new yokes like you describe?.

It can get ugly fast.Need new handlebars because of it at moment.There are only a couple of those steps up,s in the clubs meets which is a good thing.Most of the meets have a lot of logs and less than 2 foot steps.There is a lot of technical on steep camber hills which ty works good on.A friend rides a 1980 fantic 300 and easily out rides the modern bikes.He does stunt shows on a modern bike but loves riding twin shock in competition.He is a perfect example that it is the rider not the bike.

That is a sweet ride.

There are wota (wisconsin observed trials association)videos on YouTube.They are mostly the intermediate lines as the the guy filming them is in intermediate.There should also be some of the gate(goat) trials I did at Phil Smages place a couple weeks ago.Noel Smage tried my TY out at Smagical Rock and it was funny. After riding it he came back and said he thought the bike would suck lol.He was surprised at how well the bike worked.

The club I am in has simply rules for twin shock.Cable operated drum brakes,twin shock(or hard tail)aircooled motor. My bike is not legal for AMA vintage meets because of twin brakes and laid down shock.I just built it for fun and using it in a few meets in our club.Most are 2 day events so I do vintage one day and modern with my GG the other.There are only 6 of us doing twin shock unfortunately but a fun group to ride with.The intermediate lines we must ride are allowed 3ft verticals and can be harsh on these old bikes.Some of the big cliff meets I will not ride this old girl.Cool bike and don't want to wreck it.The pick is a excellent rider on a ty175. He is a expert rider and the top 2 riders in twin shock always smoke the intermediate modern scores.Unreal how these guys can make these old girls dance.

I fit them because the stock front brake sucked even after being reworked. I ride modern intermediate lines with bike that push the old girl pretty hard.I see no issues with making bike work better and even did it with period correct parts.Had nothing to do with any kind of feel good factor.

On ty if you replace main bearings save the o ring on the outside of right main.If you use a aftermarket kit the replacement is often smaller and does not keep the transfer of gear oil out of crankcase.When you put on the crank drive gear it squashes that o ring to seal the tranny from the crankcase completely as some can creep thrue the splines.

I run some plastic guards on my GG.After replacing a tech tube in my 1st trials meet was cheap insurance. If I had to run alot of mud I would also use seal savers. I use them on my offroad bike and adv bike and keeps crap out of seals.I have found over 30 years offroad racing that a piece of dirt caused many fork leaks.plastic for hit protection and seal savers for dirt protection on seals.Have not had a seal go out in the last 4 years I have used seal savers.

I just happened upon this and have run into similar problems. What I do is mount the hub and use a straight edge off the hub and measure the rim and do simple math.I just try to center rim between forks as that is what the manufacturer does.

You gents give me hope.At 56 I can hopefully keep going as long as I can see and stand up.I figure as long as I can ride 20 minutes it is worth it.If I cannot compete oh well.Have a gent that is in his 70,s in our club.He comes to the meets on a street bike with a trailer.Has a older GG on trailer with rear fender built out of pop bottles.He beat me in intermediate which I thought was cool.He road careful,cool,and smooth.Don,t let the old man win as the man in black is coming no matter what.I hope to be riding like you men and not let fear dictate my life.Hope I make it to your level.

I just installed a kit on my 74 250 2 days ago.I put it center slot and bike ran well but it had bit more pull off bottom with points.I shot it with light and timing was pretty retarded.Ended up setting timing light aside and tune by how bike runs.Set at full advance and bike did not like it.It is now set slightly advanced of center position and bike pulls well off bottom and revs out better than it ever has.The trouble with the timing on stock is it is a compromise because lack of advance. The electronic advance gives you ability to make bike run better bottom to top.The old timing mark is not super usable for the electronic kit.It is a nice piece of kit and happy I have it.I actually find the motor works better for me than my modern GG 300 pro which is crazy.I am going to add a flywheel weight to my GG to see if I can make it more like the TY engine.I do notice the front end is easier to lift with the new kit plus added run out is a win win.

Thanks for the info.I am installing a electronic kit on my 250 and was wondering about the timing curve.

Been awhile since I posted here.Bike is running great and working on installing yz front brake as I tried everything with stock front brakes.I removed flywheel weight.I find I want some back so going to machine down 50% and put back on.me and a friend rebuilt our ty,s at same time but he used a wisco piston.His bike has some piston slap and my wossner does not.Have ran bike stock now and going to increase compression a bit.Looking to have just a tad more bite off the bottom but only want a little bit more.Bike starts 1st kick every time and is a blast to ride.Going to do 1 or 2 vintage meets with it next month. It is taking alot of dinking around to fit that front brake(77 TT500 wheel and 1980 brake plate).I hope it was worth it.

The number plate is cut from a plastic cat litter container from wall mart lol.The yellow is a good match and already had the curved edges.

Just wanted to protect frame.It is cut from a thick black plastic potting tray with tin snips then cleaned up with sand paper.add almost no weight.

If you want your engine fixed pm me and i will give you my phone number.For example stealth performance in eagle river wi does exceptional crank work and is fast.I know of no one including B&J performance that jas actual aftermarket pistons(he modifies dt pistons which works fine)There are various pistons that work in the ty.Yours appears to be a yz the same as my wossner.Same basic specs but yami went to fly cut for better breathing on yz models.You can go over to adventure riders and check out my build thread in trials section.Have not updated the one here.

Cool,it has the used Michelin on stock rim now with a new Dunlop on front.

Thanks,I figure if I have a issue will simply install a tubless system that I use on my offroad bikes.Just hoping not to spend 100 bucks on one.They work fantastic but sort of pricy. I would do that before replacing the rim.I guess I will find out how low I can go with the tube in there.Either that or hunt down a irc tire.What pressure do you guys run in the back tire?

I removed my decent tire off my GG and put it on my 74 ty with a tube.Will it work ok or just s bad idea.Sorta hard to find tube type trials tires these days plus I was trying to save some money.Have considered getting a tubless kit for bike so I can reuse my lightly wore modern tires but not sure what direction to go on this.

And here is one of head before I removed them for clean up.

I need to plug some holes on the motor from removing oil injection. The flywheel cover and pump cover were damaged and welded badly so going to grind them out,reweld and clean up.

Replaced left slider because original had some internal issues. Picked up a set of forks for parts off ebay for around 80 bucks.Now I have extra damping rods to experiment with.Installed magical springs and new seals.Starting to put bike together and looking good.Laced the front wheel up and went well.Was not thinking when I cut off old shock mounts in back.The seat bolts to backside of them so now have to fabricate another method to hold seat down.I don't like the seat and will change it up in future. Might go out to shop and weld a rear mount on mx 80 tank so I can do some body work on it.