ssiegmund

Depending on your weight, short of changing to a firmer front spring, the fork air chamber (established by oil height in the tube) can be altered to increase bottoming resistance. A smaller air chamber delivers more resistance.

What was the application in your experience and how were the surfaces prepared?

I was going to put the Montesa up for sale because I recently bought a '06 Beta Rev3 250. When getting the Monte ready for sale I discovered a small oil pool on the bike stand, I pulled the skid plate only to find a small hairline crack coming off the top of the 90* corner cast into the case. When I first bought this bike I installed a new chain, spockets, exhaust gaskets, repacked the silencer, new Dunlops, and a new Montesa rubber case cushion, which required straightening of the heavy aftermarket skid plate for clearance. Apparently there was still enought pressure on the case to cause a vibration induced stress crack in the engine case, possibly due to a casting flaw since the bike has never landed hard enough on the skid plate to make me even think there was the slightest chance of case damage. As I see it there are three repair options: 1) New engine case 2) Weld the existing case 3) JB Weld the existing - provided proper preparation and installation techniques are used. I've heard second hand that the JB Weld does a surprisingly good job but I have no first-hand experience. Does anyone have first-hand experience with JB Weld repairs of this nature?

Tone, Maybe.............scroll down the page: http://www.racespec.co.uk/rs_shop_final/en-gb/dept_413.html

I've experienced good results with FMF packing:

1.25 to 2.5 is an acceptable range for the air screw. 1.25 is rich in my opinion. My '06 Rev3 250 is running 27.5 pilot, 145 main, needle 2nd from the top, air screw 2.0, at 440' above sea level N44 02.834 W123 01.170. This works well for 1st and 2nd gear riding.

For the ISDE events US riders will ship there bikes and gear over via sea containers. There is also a bike rental program offered by the major manufactuers. As far as expenses they are on their own. Many of them create their own fund rasiers, ride events, negotiate sponsorships, and t-shirt sales are propular. I sold a 100+ t-shirts for a friend who rode on the US trophy team in Slovakia. Bottom line, if you're not factory sponsored you're responsible for air travel, insurance, lodging, food, spare parts, tires, riding gear, fuel, lubricants, etc.

Right with you on all points. The motor isn't close to lean, I like to think 5% rich for safety and longevity when tuning. I tested +/- 1/4 & 1/2 turn air screw positions from what the motor said was good at a warm idle, with each adjustment I ran a loop over my logs and boulders, lugged it up a 2-1 slope in second gear into a little wheelie/float turn, decel down the hill and back on the throttle was crisp with no lag. Last night 2 turns out provided good torque, no hollow feel, or flighty idle, etc. Considing air density and temp last night 2 turns leave me enough +/- range to cover most air scenarios year round. Regarding Loctite............... it's our inexpensive, silent, and trust-worthy angle. Thanks again for sound advice, it's appreciated. Sieg

Just went for a ride with the needle in the second groove from the top, 27.5 pilot 145 main, air screw 2 turns out. Definite improvement, crisper, good power through the range. Boyesen 6125 reeds ordered today should have them Friday. Think I'll have a splash of scotch and toast another jetting victory! Thanks again Betarev3.

Thanks Betarev3! I installed a reed spacer on my KTM 200, noticable difference in low-end torque. I'll give it a go with and without on the Beta and see what my seat dyno tells me. No doubt it would make R&R of the carb simple. Have you experimented with after market reeds? Has anyone ran an iCat, now iKat ignition amplifier on their trials bike? I had one given to me from an Australian distributor and installed it on the KTM, definately a noticable improvement in starting, and at very low rpm under load when searching for traction the motor was smoother and more resistant to stalling. Doesn't appear they've marketed to the trials community, which may be the best application for their product. Betachap I hope you're taking notes! Thankfully the indirect hijack is delivering some very useful information.

Thank you very much! Exactly the air screw setting I was hoping for, gives me some adjustment range for riding the mountains. Soon as the kids are in bed the top is off the carb! Done! 20 minutes, 5 minutes on just about anything else, that carb is a bugger to get in and out of the boots. Rear out first, front in first, unscrew and remove the rear hose clamp before pulling the carb. Sorry for the semi thread jack betachap.

Glad to hear this. I just pulled the carb on my new to me '06 250 last night: Pilot 27.5, Main 145, Needle middle position, air screw out 2.5 turns. I almost dropped the needle one position since it appears slightly rich and ideally I would like to have the air screw in the 1.5 - 2.0 range. I ride at 440' ASL, 55-65* F, running 100 octane (RON), Castrol TTS at 80:1, smokes a little, but not bad. Sounds like dropping the needle one clip will clean it up nicely. Where's your air screw at Betarev3?

For clarification that is a stock photo from Sudco's website, that is how the Keihin's are shipped. MERRY CHRISTMAS Everyone

What about this method vs. the loop and "T"

I have an '04 315R and recently picked up an '06 Rev3 250, haven't had much seat time on the Beta but intial impressions are lighter, better balanced, engineering makes maintenance a little easier, and similar over-all build quality.

Hi-temp red to the rescue! Thanks

Hi all, My '04 315 silencer rattles excessively at the junction to the pre-muffler, is there any shop tricks you've used to tighten the fit? I've already repacked the silencer and the core is good and the rivits are tight, the rattle is coming from the out shell contacting the pre-muffler. Also, the gromet at the frame mount is in reasonable condition. Thanks

Apperantly there are a couple different compounds of fiber plates and the lighter tan paper style are the ones that perform best.

Sorry, I have a babbling problem directly realted to enthusiasm. Yep, I left out one of the obvious causes. In stock form they are sensitive to proper/fresh oil, right? You're baiting us.......Come on give it up!

48 year old trials novice here. Peg time! Trials to me is micro-management of weight, energy, suspension, steering imput, clutch, throttle, and brake modulation compared to off-road and street bikes. Truely a challenging sport in all aspects. I try to ride every night half-hour to and hour, luckily I have a little area in my backyard and the bike is quiet enough that my neighbors have no problem. Slowly through repetative practice of small challenges its starting to come together. Basically I'm focused on building a pyramid of skills that I can apply to effectively navigate a section without completely embarassing myself. It's a slow initial learning curve, but for the most part, everyday I get a little better, learning from the tasks that give me difficulty and repetitiously practicing the skills that cause the problem- thus the challenge.

My '04 takes one priming kick with choke on full, then one kick and it fires everytime. The clutch will drag when cold. I disengage and engage the clutch while warming the motor (3-4 minutes) to get oil into the plates and that pretty much neutralizes the drag when engaging the transmission. I'd suggest pulling the carb and thoroughly clean it, pull the jets and blow out all the fuel and air passages with compressed air. Make notes of the air screw setting, jets, and needle clip position while you're in there. Change plug - because they're cheep and can be an "invisable" source of problems. Clean air cleaner. Inspect the clutch condition and replace the oil with Silkolene, Elf, or PJ1. Bleed the hydraulic clutch just to make sure there is no air in the lines. Wouldn't hurt to clean the silencer core and replace the packing either. Check the coolant and replace it if needed. Then inspect, clean, and grease your wheel and swingarm bearings and you should have a sound trustworthy bike. Establishing a baseline will a new bike pays off in the future. FWIW - Castrol TTL at 80:1 with 100 oct fuel works well for my bike. Hope you enjoy your 315 as much I am!

I just mounted a Dunlop 803 front last night on my 315R, cleaned the beads on the rim with a stainless steel brush, mounted the tire on the rim with no tire irons or lubricant, inflated to 45 psi and bounced it a few times on the floor and it seated fine. Mounted the 803 rear tonight, cleaned the bead as above, liberally sprayed Windex Glass Cleaner on the tire beads and mounted it on the rim, sprayed the beads again, wrapped the tire with a ratcheting tied down, sinched it up and inflaated with the valve core out of the stem. Inflated (took air right away), deflated, sprayed more Windex on the one section not seating, installed valve stem and inflated to about 85 psi still didn't seat, bounced it a few times, no luck, ran the pressure up to about 100 psi and POP! Not having mounted trials tires before and after reading a few posts I was expecting a fight tonight. The tires are a pleasure to work with compared to some knobs.

I was just going to edit and add that to my post. The price is right too!

US Montesa 315R Tips I had someone post this on another board: I use GM AutoTrac II transfer case oil in my 315R and 200exc. It's the blue stuff that GM recommends in the NV246 automatic transfer case. It reduces clutch drag and seems to withstand heat much better. So far it doesn't seem to wear the clutch any faster. I would assume that it won't hurt the tranny either since it doesn't hurt the POS GM transfer case. Silkolene website recommends their Pro SRG 75, sull synthetic ester based oil. MOTUL Gear 300 Specifically formulated for racing and high performance cars. Circuit, Group A, Rallye, 4WD and passenger cars. 100% Synthetic - Ester based. Extreme pressure, anti-wear, anti-corrosion and anti-foam. For all gearboxes and hypoid rear axles without limited slip systems. Suitable for all types of fuel: leaded and unleaded gasoline, gasoil, LPG. Performance Standards: API GL4 and GL5 / MIL-L-2105D Very high lubricating power which decreases friction and wear. Very easy gear shifting. Thermal stability under high temperature. Unshearable oil film, even under extreme working conditions. Check the Torco oil here: Tryales Shop - Oils I have the Elf HTX 740 on order.