big john

04r1, You have a point, I appreciate the cost is greater than a standard or even a Repsol Montesa. However, you have to consider if you wanted such a bike how much would it cost to build, it is by all accounts a factory bike, rarety comes into it! I have an ex-factory bike bought back in 1957, not many of them around now, but I have it. Not all that much better than the standard kit and again a factory rider could have still won on a standard bike. Anybody want to buy this piece of trials history, 50 years on? Big John

Hi Ross (B40RT) & Charlie, My Matchless when I bought it many years ago had a reasonably thin oil in situ, it wet sumped like crazy! I had the motor rebuilt before I used it and filled it with Castrol Classic GP50, which was just available and to be honest that bike has never wet-sumped even after sitting idle for months. My B40 'smokes' on start up (a true sign of wet sumping) and it was only after checking with the previous owner (Gordon Jackson, Scarborough) that he confirmed he always run the bike on a straight 40 grade. So be it! Charlie, yes my proposed 'new' Scottish bike is fitted with a B40GB motor as supplied to British Army, countless numbers of B40 riders over the years have ridden the Pre65 Scottish with these motors and have not been turned away. The one thing that has turfed them out is Dellorto or Mikuni carbs and BSA 4 stud type front forks! Check the specification sheet along with the entry form of the Pre65 Scottish! By the way, due to a couple of phone calls since my last postings, I can confirm that my 350 Matchless is not for sale, eldest son wants to ride it in 2010, or so I am told! Besides, I may be tempted one day to ride my 1964 short stroke AJS! You never know... Regards, Big John

Now then, interesting discovery made today! I said earlier that I was running my B40 on 20W50 multigrade engine oil... The B40GB motor as supplied to British Army should be run on Monograde 40 oil (summer) and Monograde 30 (Winter). This fits in with what Gordon Jackson (the Scarborough one!) told me when he visited recently, he always ran my bike with straight 40 monograde oil! Looks like an order to Promopac for a 25 litre drum of Castrol XXL40 then! Also the gearbox should be run with EP 90 gear oil. Big John

Good idea Vinnie. My ones in the post already! Big John

She was making a joke actually! Big John

Actually I mentioned it on here a few days ago and was conversing, let's say with Caroline about it. The thread was removed as the 'moderators' thought I was peddling it on here, because of the wording of the thread. And the answer is no, before you ask Gizza5... I haven't bought it or negotiated to buy it, although Caz thought it would be nice to sell it to someone in Scotland, given the bike's winning history! Question is, how much did it cost to build with all those special parts on it, the Termignioni can is worth a fortune in itself! Big John

Ah yes, a departure from our friend 'El Puma'. Normally he turns out very special 'explosive' Bultacos and Montesas, I have not seen a Honda by 'El Puma' before! Big John

The only Yamaha decals that were successful on the plastic fuel tank are the type with the foil backing. KTM also used this decal system on their bikes many years ago. Not sure if they are available now or not. Problem is that the plastic tank allows 'fuel vapour release' through the plastic itself and that is what attacks the decal. Big John

Hola Snr. Greeves, Will you be making that little Honda like the 250 of our friend Nigel Greenwood? Big John

Yes, Dalesman were built in Otley, Yorkshire, in fact at one time in an old church, that was the factory. Main man was Pete Edmondston, that's the father of top world enduro rider Paul Edmonston! Finance at one stage came from the USA and Joel Robert tested some of the original moto-cross Dalesman bikes. Originally the motors were tuned Puch M125 and then Sachs 6 speed 125cc motors were used. There were three Dalesman/Puch machines entered in the 1969 ISDT at Garmisch Partenkirchen, Bavaria (I know this because I owned the Ernie Page [Edinburgh, Scotland] bike registered PSG 565H as my first off-road motorcycle) The other two bikes were ridden by Ian Millar (Edinburgh, PSG 546H) and Scott Ellis (of BSA fame) rode the third bike. The ISDT bikes had moto-cross frames with trials motors, centre stands, lights and a 20 inch front wheel. Forks were by REH (copies of Ceriani). Moto-cross style large capacity glass-fibre airboxes were fitted and tuned adapted Puch enduro type exhaust systems were also fitted at high level. Rear hub was Puch and were QD (Quickly Detachable) leaving the rear sprocket in situ with the chain attached to aid rear tyre changes. The trials bike of that era were Puch powered originally but they used the spindly Puch moped type front hubs and fork units. A pan type air cleaner was used along with the puch rear hub units already described. Jim Lee who built the frames was also the long term sponsor of TT winner Mick Grant and that is why Mick rides with the initials 'JL' on all his crash helmets! Most people think it is an arrow logo whereas it is a stylised JL! After re-financing, Bill Brooker joined Dalesman from Greeves as General Manager. Hope this helps someone! PS There is a Dalesman for sale at the moment without an engine unit, PM me for details I spotted it in a paper this morning (UK) Regards, Big John

1997 was the JTX model for definate, I had a JTX250 in red, later model/years were grey for the UK market. The bike in the photo I think is a either a 1999 or 2000 model TX, later models had different plastics and 2000 I'm sure had the words 2000 emblazoned on them. That's why I think its a 1999 bike. If you give the frame number to JST they will be able to date it for you! Big John

Notron, I agree with you 100%, if I get a ride next year, I will be switching to BSA. That's the Matchless officially retired from competition! I have to admire your ability to get a 500T Norton round as you have done for many years and I hope many years to come! Best wishes, Big John

Hi B40RT, 20W50 is what I use too, just wondered if you used a straight monograde in her. Yes indeed Ross George Spence is in Cupar. In my opinion, he is the finest wheel builder in the land, he built all the racing wheels for Jack Gow of Dundee and I've known and recommended George for many years. No-one has ever said to me that George built a bad wheel for them. I must have had about 20 wheel sets built by him over the years, without a wheel failure or as much as a broken spoke. My 350cc Matchless has done 14 Pre-65 Scottish trials (plus some others of course) without tightening a spoke since George built the wheels in 1991!!! 01334 654602 will get the man himself, provided of course he is not out having a game of snooker! Big John

Standard air pressure 0 kg/cm2 Oil SAE 5 weight (SAE-5W) Quantity 258 +- 2.5cc Specified Level: 160mm from top of fork pipe Hope this helps. Big John

I had one but because it was empty I deleted it! Big John

Is it yours? Big John

Yes, I have done this, ace wheelbuilder George Spence sorted the problem for me. We offset the rear rim 6mm further to the right (when looking from the rear of the bike), no change to the sprocket or spacers as this has to maintain chain alignment. Can't help with wet sumping, what oil are you using Ross? Big John

That's the reset mode: Open throttle wide; SLOWLY depress the kickstart (don't "kick" it as if to start); Close throttle and leave closed; Kick normally to start... and she should burble into life. Big John

Is that the same John Wright of Motorite Comp Shop or another one? I have heard of Mr Blackwell, but then I have the 1947 SSDT programme! Big John

Have you tried getting the bike to reset mode? Worth a try! Big John

Have you checked that the plug cap hasn't begun to arc out? Strange you had no problems parked bike up then it simply would not fire. Big John

Right, for future reference if you have a 'rev-up', sometimes the kill switch doesn't work if the revs get too high and the carbon in the combustion chamber starts to glow red hot, it effectively takes over and the motor 'diesels'. Best thing to do is to cover the exhaust pipe outlet either with a gloved hand or a piece of cloth (as the gasses get very hot very quickly and can burn the bare skin!) to effectively 'strangle' the motor. Shutting the petrol tap to the off position isn't ideal on a two-stroke as it starves the motor of lubricant being petrol mix. It is probably the most un-nerving thing to happen to a novice rider a cold 'rev-up' or throttle jam. When I fit a new throttle cable I carefully check all is OK by taking off the carb rubber boot to the air filter and visibly checking to see that the throttle slide is moving up and down to the bottom of it's stroke and by testing by moving the handle bars from lock to lock and if the slide rises at all, then this indicates snagging or too short a cable! On the 315R Montesa it is important to route the throttle cable the way it shows in the manual! Here's a tip, I also check a bike with a normal carb (not a Montesa 4rt with throttle body, as it has a butterfly) before starting, that the slide is returning to the bottom by placing my index finger on the tick-over adjustment screw and flicking the twistgrip, you can usually feel the slide hitting the throttle stop screw! Also if the motor didn't misfire before stopping, it should be OK, it has not been starved of fuel and it seems to be running OK now. You may just have got away with it, keep checking your coolant level for the next few outings, just as a precaution. Hope this helps. Big John

Cold Knuckles, that's where I'm observing! Big John (No time to talk!)

Check your e-mail inbox from Big John! Regards, Big John

Oops, sorry I was led to believe it belonged to Steve Colley! I'm not in the habit of staring at the male anatomy... female...more likely. Sincere apologies... Big John