billyt

Martin I tried to send you a PM but your box is not accepting anything. We need to talk, Please e-mail at williamtraynor@hotmail.com Thanks

Miss Piggy What, no wise crack about my vacuum comment? Perhaps "burned off" is a miss nomer. The oil changes state in the ignition process. What do you think smoke is? Co2 basically? Smoke is still carbon based. The oil does not just vaporize. Some gets blown out and some changes state. Oil is carbon based, smoke is carbon based. The oil in the two stroke is to lubricate not produce energy. The bike would run on just gas alone not for long but it would run before it seizes up. "By combusting hydrocarbons within the fossil fuels, carbon dioxide (CO2) gas is liberated (as well as many other compounds such as CO which result from imperfect combustion). This is also the greatest reason hydrocarbon fuels lose much of its weight after completely burning, the carbon content within the hydrocarbons have been lost from burning and conversion into CO2." Read more: http://wiki.answers....e#ixzz1wbvc7FbM Back to you Miss Piggy

Gasgas249 I think you penned the reply eloquently. I agree with oil been sucked up from the crankcases due to separation etc. However may I offer the fact that revving a bike does not produce a higher vacuum as the strength (torr or Manometric Units) of the vacuum is set by the stroke and piston size, cavity to fill and atmospheric pressure and is a constant. Revving a bike increases the frequency of vacuum pulses per minute therefore simulating a higher vacuum effect i.e. a hundred RPM equates to say 100 vacuum pulses per minute vs 1000 RPM equating to 1000 vacuum pulses per minute. It is this more frequent pulse/pull that draws up the oil from the crankcase. A 125cc does not become a 300cc just because you revved the engine up. The second point is that the oil in the gas oil mixture does not actually burn but rather gets spat out the exhaust.

I guess this means your bushings are wore out?

"ya thin hes thick, hees sen the restofit!" Cope, you are starting to write like you speak, you must be from Texas with penmanship like that ! LOL Was that your attempt at an Austrian accent? Maybe you where asking me if I thought he was dumb? No I was not, many smart people have forgot about the wavy retaining clip and just start banging away.

Did you remove the wavey retaining clip first before trying to pull out the old seal?

The large air vent from the vaccum chamber at top of carb should be blocked. Why? Like This Quote MultiQuote Because it is for a multi carb set up such as four cylinder engine. There should be a little black cap on it.

I'll hae twa plen bridies and an ingin in an a an a bootle Irn Bru ta boot

Forres, Elgin, Inverness, Aberdeen, Shetland, Skye ????? How far is north?

Maybe yon noise is a wee kelpie in yer heid LOL Glad it has subsided. Ta the noo

http://s562.photobuc...ent=AirBoot.jpg Click on the link to see what I mean.

There is already a drain plug on the Beta 4T air box. However that will not take care of the transmission oil that builds up in the folds and ripples in the air-boot that goes from air box to carb. One can look into the air box and not see any oil build up yet there can be a lot of oil pooling in the boot. See the next post to see what I mean.

Yes after a big off on a 4T, transmission oil can be found in either the air box or the air boot from air box to carb. You will not see this this oil pool in the carb so looking there will be redundant. The oil gets in the air box or boot vie the breather hose that goes from the engine cases back to the air box and not back through the carb as Scoobydo is indicating. This pooling is normal and nothing to be alarmed about. After all when you flip the bike and the transmission air breather is now at the low point the oil has no were to go but out along the hose into the air box. Even if one does not flip the 4T the transmission oil if to full will also make its way back into the air box vie the breather hose. As for the qty of oil, that depends on how long the bike sat upside down and if it was running or not. Just make sure you soak up the excess oil in the air box or air boot or it will make the bike run rich and ratty as it sucks it through the carb.

Lampkin 6.2 Narita 6.0 ?

You wife discovered girth when I met her LOL

NeilH FYI The brake squeak is not due to the state of the disc surface but rather it is the relationship of the back part of the pad vibrating against the brake puck causing vibrations and squeaking. Pretty common and there is a product that one can get at a auto parts store for that very purpose. Check the back of the brake and you should see a nice round wear circle that is witness to how well the round puck and brake pad are wearing together a broken circle mark tells a story.

Lampkin, Fugi Gas, Takumi Narita, Raga, Kuriama are all tall people. Equaling long arms............

Mark Has your wife being talking about me again? If a man is a king, and a king is a ruler, and a ruler is 12 inches I guess that makes me a king! I guess that Is why your wife calls me "king Billy" WAIT....... I am a catholic I cant be king Billy (that comment will go right over Mark's head).........

One thing that some people try is just moving their grips & levers in half inch or so from the ends just to see if they like it or not. If you like it then cut of the bars at the end and adjust grips & levers accordingly. It will look funky while you are experimenting having the bars stick out a half inch or so from the grips, but who cares as it is only a test for short period of time. Basically cut the very end of the grip so that it is a hollow tube that way you can slide it up and down the bar for testing purposes. Most people end up cutting the very end of the grip off anyway to instal bar end plugs, CAVEAT: Make sure you grip glue the grips to stop them from sliding about.

Zoomered Yer heids gonny be nipping we awe yon patter aboot bars. Bar width, height, angle all fall into the "personal" settings category when riding a trials bike or in fact any kind of dirt bike. One can not state this setting is better than the other. I can however share with you some things that are physics and my own personnel experience with bars. After thirty years of riding trials I have messed with bars up, down, wide, narrow, angled forward angled backwards etc. For comparison I am 5.5" with short arms Here are some facts regardless of what bike you ride: The wider you spread your hands apart (due to the width of the bars) the closer it will draw you to the front of the bike. This may or may not be a good thing as it will take weight of the rear end and place more on the front end. Too narrow and it will push you back on the pegs There is a sweet spot in how wide the bars are, too narrow and one looses torque due to the length of the bar one is pushing, too wide and your arms are out of their range of strength. Bars too low will make you lean forward on them placing undue stress on your wrists. Bars angled to far forward also draws you closer to the front of the bike. Extreme forward angled bars are okay for the top pros as they are riding some pretty extreme obstacles but this setting messes up the average club rider. Bars width, height, angle are all open to what makes you comfortable. Set the basics and adjust from there. What are the basics? Place bike on flat ground and adjust thebars to be 90 degrees and then ride and adjust from there in small increments. Adjust the height thru shims until you are not hunched over. I always cut half a inch of my bars on either end as I find it lets me stand relaxed and natural on the pegs without drawing me forward. I ride a 2012 Beta 4T 300cc and have no problem adjusting the levers to the shorter bars. Your milage may vary but do not be scared of shortening the bars I would not however cut more than half an inch of the width ( I know as I have cut as much as one inch of either side and it was to narrow). Guys have rode my bike and said the bars are too narrow but they are six feet tall or long armed guys, guys who are my height or so say they are just right. Be brave and experiment. Frae a wee Glesga man

"so would be the longer pipe" Not necessarily so, what size of bike is this for? What class does he ride?

Avo To get an accurate answer you need to help us understand if you are asking about a long or short S3 pipe as S3 has both a short and long pipe for the Beta. The people who have answered to date should clarify if their pipe is long or short. What is it that you seeking the S3 pipe to do, more power or softer delivery that will determine the S3 pipe you order.

Why not install both types. It is all the rage. I know of one guy who has two of the tether types attached, one for each wrist. Go buy a KTM kill switch and you will never look back. You can fill the back up with silicone and it keeps out any moisture.

A Traynor Viggen ........ Oops not unti 2013............. LOL......................

Steve Shall we make it and 8 Stroker event? LOL