billyt

Hi Nastys Welcome to the sport. As you have recently experienced there will be many subjective responses based upon mainly where they live and past riding experience, what else could there be! I hope to provide you with objective and subjective words of advise. As a person who has ridden trials for 40 years now in the UK and in North America (Canada & the USA) I see it from both perspective and points of view as I have ridden trials bikes 125cc and 300cc in both continents. The fine folks that ride trials from the UK on this site have little to no compression of the vast differences of elevation changes there are across North America. In North America you can ride a trial at sea level (around 500ft) and another trial at 8000 foot elevation. The UK is mostly at sea level at any trial one is never really any further away from a sea @ 100 miles in land. Whereas in North America you can ride @ 500ft or 8000 ft so you have to pick a cc not purely based upon skill level alone but also elevation. Once you get above 1000ft foot elevation the power drops off exponentially. At or around 3000ft it is a struggle. A 125cc trial bike will be VERY un responsive with little to no power at higher elevations so be careful getting advise from those that live at or near sea level on what size of bike regardless of what continent they live on. If you are riding at higher elevations where you live be cautious of what you buy. A 250cc is a good all around docile machine and can be tweaked to make it a rocket ship or a pussy cat. A 250cc will start to feel like a 125cc at around 4500ft elevation. From a grown ups perspective a 125cc trials bike is ridden on RPMs where as a 250 cc is ridden from HP. A 250cc has higher resale value should you decide to sell it down the line. As stated prior by another poster 125cc and 300cc are the on the lower demand of re sale with the 250cc being the most in demand. On a 125cc you will be trying to make it more reactive as you progress through the sport. Respectfully BillyT

Additional outlet breather spigot on frame + Gas Fumes = Problematic Gas Caps Defined and known Stay tuned ?

"The first production Honda motorcycle to feature electronic fuel injection technology was the 1982 Honda CX500TC Turbo, Click below: https://transmoto.com.au/10-common-efi-misconceptions/

Not 100% sure but doubt it was. The EFI on the Montesa is actually a Keihin PGM-FI EFI system.

Honda did NOT develop the EFI for the 4RT. The EFI technology had been developed and applied to other bikes long before the 4RT. Honda just tweaked it for the 4RT.

Dan Ban BillyT here. A few words of observation based on your posted picture. All the oily spots, dirt and corrosion on the engine speaks to the standard maintenance or lack of done on the bike. I would be giving the engine a good clean before performing any surgery on the carb, who knows what foreign matter is in the carb blocking jets or get in there during carb surgery etc. Suspecting that the oil spots are an enthusiastic application of chain lube? The dirt is just dirt. This is NOT a negative comment on the state cleanliness of the bike but rather about performing carb surgery in those conditions? The bottom of the float bowl looks like it is making contact with the top of the gear box, if so this is no-no even a little tiny gap is bad as the carb will sink down and touch the gear box after a big/hard landing causing frothing (through vibration of the engine and the sudden stop) of the fuel in the carb and playing havoc with the float levels ie leaking gas and sticking floats. The carb is suspended by rubber boots to keep heat transferring from the engine through the aluminum and into the petrol, isolate float bowl from engine vibrations, affording miss alignment between engine and an air box. The top fuel hose tube seems to be coming down from the petrol tank VERY close to the exhaust pipe, this is not a good idea apart from flammability issues it can also heat up the fuel. Move the fuel supply hose to the front side of the carb down and away from the heat source. I wrote the The 'Mikuni Gas Leaking" post a VERY long time ago and it has been proven to work for many riders over the years. There is nothing magical about it, just basic carb physics. Please let us know how we can help you? Respectfully BillyT

Try Viagra fuel. No more "Limp Mode" for you..... ?

Hi Mark. The reason it is much quieter is because it had the correct oil in from the get go. I miss her !!!!

Why is the picture so small. Please post a normal size picture so we can look at it? Thanks

Go Red Rose, Waipres, and Blackfoot will be much easier with the white tube.

Glad to be of help Bob. When you coming through to ride with us in AZ?

Hi Mossyrock. As Island Rich says check out my post from many years ago on this issue. This adjustment works as several can attest too. I agree with Oni nou in that you should not be ramdomly bending tabs if you don't understand all the functions of the brass tabs. Check out my Mikuni article pinned on this site somewhere. Good luck BillyT

Here was my tapping noise issue about 5 years ago. Bushings bad. Click Link

I used live and ride in Winnipeg. This is a picture of the old Take Five Club. I am the guy in the grey top. We used to ride up near a prison I think it was Stoney something? We rode at an old quarry in Rennie. It was the same place they had the world round at. Cheer Billy

The bike is a 2009 and you are asking 9 years on..... I would have changed the oil long before now at least in 2010, 20111, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 LOL

Birdshill, Rennie, Lac Dubonnet, Rode trials in all those places.

Here is the tech scoop on this issue: Remove header pipe and silencer. Remove the two O Rings from the silencer. There will be two groves/recesses in the silencer (where the silencer meets the header pipe and where O rings are supposed to reside). Take out O rings and clean the groves with brake cleaner and let dry. Apply a thin layer (with fingers) of heat resistant RTV into the groves wait a little bit (about a minute and then instal O rings (new rings if old) into the RTV ladened groves pressing them in to the RTV. This is much better than putting RTV all over the pipe and holds the O rings in place in the grooves making a better seal as you slide the parts back together. Let dry completely and re-instal. This has worked on all Betas that I have worked on either mines or friends Beta's. Cheers BillyT

One thing I can confirm is that the rear shock will have 15 mm or so longer travel. My 2018 Beta Factory 250 cc 2T rear shock is 15mm longer than the stock 2018 bikes rear shock. Makes a BIG difference in the rear suspension performance. The rear shock has compression & rebound adjustment along with sag. Love it....

I heard a woman found all her husbands Viagra tablets. She got a bit fed up with him taking them and then chasing her around. She took all his pills and flushed them down the toilet, now the toilet lid won't stay down.....

How about Viagra. Could make a "Hard Section" harder.....

With Russia not a big player in the world Trials GP scene what country/team would take the honors of the most using performance enhancing drugs If testing was undertaken looking for performance enhancement drugs how would the world trials GP scene change? Things that make you go mmmmm

My Italian bambinos in my Japanese baby.

I am totally confused by this thread...... I ordered thinner clutch discs. Part #1343310-000, which are 2.70 mm. I measured all the clutch discs on my bike and they ranged from 2.95mm to 2.98 mm. I replaced the two thicker ones with the new, thinner plates and now the clutch pack is .55 mm thinner. This enables the clutch to fully disengage and start in gear without dragging. Also starting from cold and only running the bike for 30 seconds can put it into first gear and it doesn't jump forward. You put thinner plates in to be able to start the bike in gear? It is actually dangerous to start a trials bike in gear as it may take off flying off a rock with you squeeling all the way behind it. There is a reason Beta put thicker clutches plates in the 4T to start with. It is cheaper for Beta to use the same plates in a their trials models be it 2T or 4T. However they chose not to. A 4T has more instant torque than a 2T putting more heat into the plates causing an inconsistent clutch action and it may cause warpage long term with thinner plates. You could also remove more three plates and the bike would not jump either on start up due to there being even less friction......... DUH......... Clutches work on friction, stiction, energy transfer & heat dissipation. In my opinion this greatly improves the performance of the bike. How does this improve the performance of the bike? Thinner plates mean less spring pressure on the clutch pack equating to potential slippage at higher gears RPM's & excess heat generation specially on a torquey 4T. A higher class rider will rev and dump the clutch and with less clutch pack pressure the clutch will slip. You are the first person I know that changed the 4T clutch plates to solve a problem that nobody was trying to solve i.e start the bike in gear at the expense of a potential clutch pack slippage in higher gears. Most people try to adjust the clutch for its performance whilst running. To each his own. I sincerely hope you get the results you desired.

Hi Why would you start the bike in gear? Most trials clutches will drag when started in gear regardless of brand.... Is this your first trials bike? No worries, lots of knowledgeable people on here to help out with technical queries. BillyT

Guys Lets not start comparing the Beta 2T clutch to the Beta 4T clutch. Thanks for chiming in Mark (LOTUS54). Mark lives in the north west of the USA, I live in the southwest USA. Mark still uses the type of oil I ran in the bike when I sold it to him. The temperature extremes are vast. I ride in summer highs about 110F and winter lows about 60F. Mark sees maybe 80F in summer and 30F in the winter. While we can all debate what oil is best for our clutches in a 2 stroke a Beta 4T oil has to be selected to protect the running gear i.e. valves, top end chain etc. The clutch perfomance comes second in a Beta 4T oil selection. One can imagine the engine temp in a Beta 4T when riding a 100F, if you don't carefully select an oil to protect the top end you WILL have top end problems. Caveat to protecting the top end on a Beta 4T is that you have to live with how it make the clutch feel and behave. Or if you have the knowledge and pateince start experimenting with an oil that works for both top end and clutch. It is a compromise. No amount of cleaning clutch fibre plates will protect the Beta top end running gear from mechanical wear due to wrong oil selection based purely upon how the clutch feels.. With a two stroke your oil selection it is usually witnessed/judged by an immediate clutch feel. You have no idea how it will affect the main bearings etc for a long time. With a Beta 4T engine oil selection clutch feel will be tested quite quickly and judged good or bad. You will also learn in a rather short time how the engine oil selection has affected the top end. I have owned MANY Beta 4Ts and through careful trial and error found an oil that calms the top end down makes it whisper quite and pulls the heat away from the clutch providing a more consistent non drag clutch feel. The oil weight in Marks bike is more suited for the high temperatures seen in the southwest USA and not the vastly cooler temps seen in north West USA. Hence why he feels some clutch drag upon an initial cold start up. I have never experience clutch drag in a Arizona winter or summer with the same bike and same oil that is in Marks bike currently. Mark is going for top end protection and lives with a little bit of cold weather start up drag, and then it settles down.... smart man. Re-setting the valves and top end engine repair on a Beta 4T is a bear of a job as one has to take the engine out of the frame to set the valves etc.correctly. I won't say the brand of oil I use but rather give its weight 15/60 4T engine oil made for extreme race competition clutch and top end protection. It has also provided the smoothest clutch engagement and hook up I have ever experienced on a trial bike. In normal or high temperatures there is never any drag not jumping from start up. Take what you want from this post. Believe it or not, does not change my experience nor belief. Mark is my witness in how the bike runs with the 15/60 0il. Respectfully BillyT