billyt

Guys a little Scots wisdom here. The forks are dead until you put energy into them. So, with that been said you can put the lightest oil one can find into the rebound fork all day long it will just sit there until you put some energy into it So where does this energy come from? It comes from riding of course but more importantly it comes from having the front forks compress The more the front fork compresses the more energy will be stored in the spring The fork spring will now will try to release this energy by rebounding and the rebound oil will slow down the return energy So, the moral of this story is the light viscosity of rebound fork oil has to work in harmony with the compression fork oil and spring. You can put in light rebound oil but if you can not compress the forks due to a heavy compression oil there will be little to no return energy. There is a delicate balance between fork compression oil and rebound oil viscosity. Try changing the compression oil to a lighter oil as well as the rebound oil

Dave I stand corrected. My point is still valid though! I have been riding or should I say it has been riding me a Beta Factory 300c 2T and it tends to get away from me........ I like the slowness and silkiness of the 4T and if I over shoot something which I tend to do a release of the throttle tends to sort me out on a 4T. So, Dave, a quite hogmany in Kelowna? Awe the best for new years to you and yours.

To me the real question is not about being "green" or maintenance costs but rather do I like engine breaking or not when riding a section on a 4T vs a 2T! The answer is YES..... That is why I am going back to riding a 2012 Beta Evo 300c 4T. At my age and skill level the engine breaking is a must! BillyT

Mark Yes it is all relative and one has to use some common sense when doing this heat/cool technique. Saying "get it hot" is all relative to whom ever is doing the "getting it hot". The guy I saw doing this got it so hot it was almost changing colour no wonder the cool water he poured over it (the water came out of his ice ladened cooler) caused a rapid drop and subsequent hairline cracking of the disk and then when he rode placing stress on the disk going down a BIG hill BINGO! over the bars he went as the brake pads caught on the crack. Not good...............

"I usually perform 2-3 good hard stops from a good high speed run in 5th gear to warm them, then let them cool and resume normal operation. Do this 2-3 times to thermocycle them, then on a final trip do the same to get them and the disk good and hot and douse them with a water bottle to steam off." Warning to the wise on getting your disk hot and then dosing it in cold water! I have witnessed this resulting in the disk cracking and or warping due to the aneling effect that the radical drop in temperature causes. I was present when a friend of mine tried this and and then went over the bars after the brake disk shattered

How good? As ma maw would say, juist a brodie - a big roons slap o' dough wi' the tap hauf spread wi' steak cut sma' an' chappit ingins." "Syne the boddom hauf's luftit an' laid ower the tap an' scolpit ee aidge." "Nick oot twa holes ee tap fauld an' there y'are - a brode pie - a brodie - a bridie."

Hugh You may be correct! That would make sense.

Is the Evo frame painted or powder coated? My black frame is holding up okay, even after dropping it MANY times.

Hey Ralphy I am happy, very happy Just trying to help him get the answers he wants from the other riders by asking him to be more succinct in his questions. He wrote on his second post. "What do they go like and the clutch what is that like" What do they go like???? How does one answer an ambiques question like that with any degree of intelligence? If a person cant take the time to compose their question/s correctly and succinctly then they cant be taken seriously Maybe I am just getting too old and grumpy I am getting my zimmer and going back to the home for aging trials riders

"What they like" A silly ambiques question deserves a silly answer! Their kind of silver, and red with lots of aluminum parts and rubber! If you want someone to take your question seriously then ask some succinct questions, i.e. does the engine have much torque, any magneto issue etc!

Firstly it is a MIKuni, not a MAKuni. Try this test disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle tube/grip. Pull the end of the throttle cable barrel in and out. Does the slide still stick? If so your cable is kinked, damaged or at an extreme bend angle going down to the carb. Or it could be issues from the next test also. If it does not stick with the prior test, the two other options are. Is your throttle tube/grip sticking as you turn it with the throttle cable disconnected? If so remove it and check for burrs etc. Your slide may be sticking. Take the carb off and check slide for and slide track on carb for nicks, scratches etc.

Yeh, and makes the trials riding harder due to the blisters on ones hands!

Maybe cover it with Xispa stickers/graphics that way someone will think it is an illusion!

Hey Chewy, Did you actually look at the WHOLE video clip!

A ken that! I think others may think it a bicycle! Naebotheratawe!

Hey Cope, Would this help get rid of forearm pump? I know you have at least two of them in your garage http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veHKdKElZ3w :banana2:

Nedrapler You need to clear some things up for us here. Are you talking about a TRIALS BIKE or a TRIALS MOTORBIKE?

I've always liked the idea of trials, particularly the long distance stuff. I am still dazed at the "long Distance" part! This guy is pulling our chains!

I'm planning to ride a trial this weekend. I will take note of the engines peformance. Hopefully the issue hs been resolved. Go kick some butt at the weekend ! Cheers BillyT

Mr Hill......... I will stick my little UV wand up yer a*** and set fire to your propane tank

I mentioned to Livlob to check for a missfire?

Why the hell am I giving you a headache? I do agree I am confused why Livlob is making it leaner in colder temps! Is there something we are missing in the translation here? The air is getting colder so turn the air screw in, the air is thinner up higher needing the air screw to be turned out more but only if it is warm and it is not in Colorado right now. I agree with Hank oops I mean Cope.................

Livlob Sorry! In my prior brief post (LOL) I was babbiling, not really focusing in with any real solution to your problem! If I am reading your post properly the bike is fouling plugs and they look normal when you pull them. Even though they look normal you feel the bike is running rough at idle or/and low rpm? Changing to a new plug does not fix the problem and it still runs rough? If so the plug is not the issue. if you re-install the same or a new plug it runs the same? The plug condition or symptom is witness to something else that is going on! The bike is not running bad because the plug/s are constantly going bad by themselves or need a slight tweek to the gap. The plugs are going bad due to the bike doing something wacky with the mechanics ie compression, rings, woodruf key, or electrical ie timing, wiring, grounding, magneto etc. You wrote: I changed the gap as per recomendation of a friend who said the engine would produce more torque because of the smaller plug gap. Funny thing here is that i did not notice any change in engine performance yet i set the new plug the same before installing it. I personaly thought that a bigger plug gap within recmended range would produce a stronger spark, that was simply an intuitive thought! That was my point in my looonnngg post. A slight change of the gap of the plug will not effect performance as long as it is in the range suggested by the bike manufacturer. You wrote: "Although i can push the kicker thru by hand without too much effort." what size of bike is this? Being able to push it through by hand may suggest low compression i.e. worn out piston, barrel, rings etc? I am also thinking it could be a ignition (mag, coil) problem, timing, woodruf key or a bad grounding issue of the coil, mag etc.! Even a bad high tension wire. If you just clean the plug you took out and re-install it does it run okay for while and then wet foul plug? I am really not sure how long it runs before it wet fouls a plug. Try this little experiment. Get your bike all warmed up, go to a really dark area such as your garage at night time turn off the lights while the bike is running. Get close to the spark plug area and observe, do you see any sparks around the spark plug area or sparks jumping from the high tension wire to ground? If so then the high tension wire is bad and leaking to ground (by ground I mean the frame etc). There should be no light show in and around the spark plug and spark plug wires. I have witnessed several bikes giving off a light show in a dark area with the spark jumping to the frame off the hi tension lead causing all sorts off intermittent problems! One caveat: because a plug looks wet does not guarantee it is wet fouled. Why? If a plug starts to fail due to the bike running lean and you pull it fairly quickly when you feel something is wrong it will look whitish and dryish. Leave that same plug in for a while and the bike will not run correctly due to the plug being weakened(lean fouled) and it will now wet foul due to not totally burning the fuel, now pull it and it will look wet fouled even though it is actually lean fouled! Confusing I know! It is important that you determine a wet or lean fouled plug ASAP. A lean fouled plug will fail quicker and you will have to change it. If the bike is lean fouling (note fouling as in going bad not totally bad yet) it tends to start easier but runs like crap. A totally lean fouled plug will neither start or run! A wet fouling (getting wetter) plug will run much longer and will make the bike harder to start due to it being wet. Of course when it is totally soaked it too will stop the bike from running or start! Hopefully you will get to the bottom of your problem soon. With lots of good folks supplying good answers/tips I am sure you will.