billyt

It does afford access to the jets thru the big brass nut. It is stuck due to not being open much. Hit it with a big piece of wood or a rubber mallet. If that does not work then heat it up with a hair dryer pointed at the bowl and then hit it??????

Freudian slip? Eh........ You wrote "When I asked her what ?? he pointed at my ass and said.... "What happened there? " Are you married to a man or a woman LOL......

Does the bike knock when you let off or back off the throttle or when you twist the throttle on? BillyT

Oh Oh Bernie. Get ready for an onslaught as this topic has been talked to death by many fine people on this site. Please refer to the posted link that will guide you in setting this catb up correctly. Once done the issue will go away. PS: These "the carb has an overlfow by the three overflow nozzles" are not actualy overflow tubes/nozzles etc but rather vent holes to allow the carb to reach atmospheric pressure. Good luck. BillyT

Toni Bou moonlighting as a excavator driver ???? http://video.ca.msn.com/watch/video/ramps-are-for-sissies/1gl8h8i3h

Mike I am based out of Arizona. Lots of big rocks here, but as Steve pointed out they are dry and very easy to get up them due to the traction. I would not know what to do if you showed me a rock with moss on it or in fact a log as I seldom see or ride any! I need some lessons from Steve on riding slippery rocks and logs! What are you riding these days? Do you still go to BIrdshill, Rennie, Lac Dubonnie, Stoney? The last time I was there was with Mike Duncan. He visited me several time when I was in Texas. He had just went back to Winnipeg from riding with me in Texas and then he passed away. It was a shock when his wife called me to let me know! I am riding a 125cc Beta Evo S3 Factory. I was riding a Beta 4T but it got stolen. Paste the verbiage below (exactly) into You Tube and you can see me fart about on the bike. billyt 4t Post or send some pictures of you! Later....

I drew up behind this outfit on Saturday on the highway. An RV pulling a truck with a large boat in its bed! http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/billytraynor/RVTRUCKBOAT.jpg?t=1303692331

Steve I just saw your "send me a PM" message this am. I have tried many times to no avail. Here is my contact info. Get a hold of me on one of these and we can chat. Cell # 602-570-6877 E-mail williamtraynor@hotmail.com Cheers

Steve, Is Matt riding a Beta Evo 125cc? This was me today on my little S3 125 cc Beta Evo

Is this MIke of the old Take Five club? If so it has been a long time since we spoke LOL I saw Francois about two years ago, ye she still had a neck scarf on LOL Cheers Billy Traynor

Steve My main man! How is Matt doing? Are you going to Kelowna?

Okay. We have narrowed location down from a gizzilion square hectares to a million hecters, progress! Northern Alberta such as Edmonton, Grand Prairie, Cold Lake etc etc

In my humble opinion When it comes to a trials bike, one changes front or rear gearing for torque either more or less, not speed. If that is so, then we change the rear sprocket i.e. make it bigger to gain more torque but loose speed. Changing the front sprocket usually results in limited choices due to chain wrap and we can not go to small. The rear sprocket affords us more choices in the way of changing things up! When changing gearing we in trials really need to ask our selfs "do I want more or less torque" not speed. Torque and speed are inversely opposed. Gear up in the rear get more torque, loose speed. My half a crowns worth!

Then again an extra 5 hours of practice a week would probably do more for your riding then all the titanium you can afford. Spot on Dan. If I cuodl tipe i proburly i would ahuve said it as well! LOL Here is another thing to consider. A factory bike or factory parts are pretty much availble to all factory riders. Therefore it some what evens out the playing feild. That is when Dan's comment comes into play. Practise plus, Factory support plus, plus talent, and one other equation, important thing: personal attention!!!! For a rider to have factory attention, a factory or sponsered mechanic who can mentor or educate, interpret a riders needs into reality invalauble. I spent several days back in the early ninties with Jordi and his brother and mechanic in the USA. Jordi would ride, his mechanic would watch him, Jordi would mention things about the bike in how it felt and his mechanic would react. Was Jordi actauly feeling something the mechanic could not see or feel or was the mechanic just placating Jordi? I remember one instance were Jordi said the forks were sticking and his mechanic tore them apart to find nothing wrong. The mechanic re-assembled the forks, again Jordi would ride again only to once again mention there is something wrong with the forks. This went on several time unti the mechanic eventuily found something wrong with the forks. Jordi was brillant at getting the best out of factory bikes, factory parts, and factory mechanics fine tuning all of them to his personal taste etc. This begs the question do factory or sponsered riders only have to have riding talent or a good dose of mechanical abilty in order to translate what they feel/want out of their bikes?

Here is a really neat way of taking care of a chain. When you drain your engine oil into a flattish pan/container and the when you have about two engine changes worth in the container follow this procedure. Leave the container out side to bake in the sun with the chain fully submerged in the oil. This is known as "boiling the chain". The links on the chain will expand with the heat of the sun allowing the used engine oil to flow into every little cavity, between every pin etc. After about a day of the chain soaking in the hot oil take out the chain and hang it above the pan letting all the excess oil drain back into the pan. Take a cloth and wipe of the excess oil and re-install on bike and then spray the chain with a chain wax. Why do this? A chain needs each link to move freely and independently in order to adopt the radius of the mating sprocket AND provide a surface buffer of the chain on the sprocket. Spray alone will not accomplish this very good. "boiling the chain" will lube the pins and crevices and the spray will proved the surface buffer. Your chain will be loose and will move freely and have good surface contact. Try it, it works!

Okay, a pet peeve People posting videos on here or on You Tube with a sound track that does not let you hear how the bike is running in the section! Why do they pick some piece of music that totally drowns out the sound of the bike running. If I wanted to hear music or that particular music I will go play a CD or down load it from I Tunes. By doing this they force you to listen to a style of music that is in many cases obnoxious. Keep the damn music of the video and let us hear and see the bike run! Okay rant over with! BillyT

Mmm so guys here are missing the intent of the post!

Is this better AndY? http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/billytraynor/BetaKilt.jpg

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/billytraynor/BetaKilt.jpg Is this better AndY? http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/billytraynor/BetaKilt.jpg

The easy way is ta wear a kilt and then the wind will blow up yer kilt! LOL

Help! I want to post a picture, but can not figure out how? Please >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Cope Actually the rim does not get harmed even if one runs the wheel of the car or truck on to the rim of the rear wheel. The tyre of the car is very soft and will not damage the rim. Of course you want the weight of the tyre on the rear tyre. Try t, it works! If fact we just used this technique last Thursday on Don's Beta as he could not get the bead broke by conventional methods.

To break the bead off the rear rim is very simple. Take the wheel off the bike, lay it on the ground with the disc facing up. Have a friend hold it steady and guide you onto it with your car or truck front drivers side wheel/tyre. Basically put it on the ground and run the wheel of you car over ONLY THE TYRE portion of the rear rim. Once the tyre of the car is on the tyre portion of the rear wheel move the rim up and down and it will break loose. With all the weight of the car or truck on it, it has no choice but to be pressed off! You may have to run it over several spots but it will break loose this way! Being doing it this way for about twenty years and works like a charm. Now the secret to mounting the new tyre onto the rim quickly OOPS's my laptop battery is running out LOL Later

C for compression R for Rebound