billyt

Note to all: You can, quite successfully connect the two hose without cutting them with one VERY IMPORTANT POINT. If you choose to connect the tubes ..then.. The connected tubes must go over the top of the carb and not down below it as many have done and created anomolies in running and starting. . Putting them below the carb creates a potential to trap gas and thus preventing atmospheric equilization. Some thing like a "P" trap on a toilet bowl.. BillyT

DMX84 E-mail me @ williamtraynor@hotmail.com and we will get you fixed up. BillyT

"2-stroke R&D recently particuarly in the area of fuel injection so once the dust settles we might see a 2-stroke renaissance." Mmmm.............Fuel Injection = Mikuni= Lots of MI5 Cloak and Dacker ????? BillyT.......................................

Try a rocket run. Wait untill it is dark. A scout heads out in to the woods, hills , rocks etc and takes an object like a bright red flag. When the scout gets to his destination he lets off a flare every ten minutes or so signalling his position. The group of riders head out at the first flair (all wearing approved head lights on their helmets (like campers wear). The first person to retreave the flag and bring it back to camp is the victor. Beleive me this can be very intesting (and dangerous) all riders must have the trials marshall approve their camper lights attached to their helmets. In the past some did not make it back to the camp for hours and search parties had to go in after them only to find them with the lights crapped out and them sitting there waiting on rescue slugging back cans of bud. You do not have to be the clubs best trlals rider to succeed at this but rather one who rides carefully and can keep a sense of direction in the woods in the dark. Speed here does not really play as a large factor, one can put their feet down as many times as they wish (who the hell is going to see it in the dark anyway) this is a blast to try Steve. BillyT

Charlie I agree, let the postings flow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But I am keeping out of it! Oil Ratio Mix opinons is like ass#$ls we all have. Hell here is my thoughts anyway. Get a hold of a little black plastic film canister that 35mm film comes in. Fill it with oil and pour two of them in to one gallon (US) = 64:1 That makes it easy, you never have to figure it out, you do not need a ratio right, they are free to be had by just going to any film developing place and asked them for some. You can thow them away when they get dirty. Each container hold approx 1 ounce of oil. It works out to 64:1 Perfect no oily black smoke no carb problems, no pinging, bike runs great. Okay every body's elses turn. BillyT

Kevin J Wonder Boy is Chris UK without the brain. Chris had a lobotomy Wonder Boy was the outcome. I have been participating in the trials board since 1995 when Ian started this great concept and then lately Andy's good efforts. But I can tell you with all honesty it is getting to be a chore just trying to decipher what is trying to be said by the poster. I feel like I am on a chat room for school kids. Seriously, I watch my two young daughters on the MSN messenger and they way they communicate are getting to be very similar in nature to some of the posts here. I am not talking about a genuine spelling mistake or the odd grammar fluff I am the first to put my hand up and say I am guilty of spelling mistakes and grammatical errors. Some of the posts are an insult, they take no time to try and communicate in a manner that is comprehensive or logical. There has to be freedom of speech, but along with that a respect for your fellow trials rider/reader. I know of no magazine that would survive if the text was allowed to be written in a manner that is commonly polluting this fine board. Am I the only one that feels this way? It was fun in the beginning but now it is a chore and the novelty of the delibarate spelling and grammar posts is taking away from the professionalism of this board. I mean there does not seem to be a genuine attempt to communicate in the English language but rather a text style that is indicative to cell phone usage. Do these poster even read what they have written before they hit the send button? Do they ask themselves does this make sense what I am asking, can others understand it? Andy, I may be off base here or speaking out of place but the potential advertisers may look at this board, they must take the sight seriously to pay advertising monies. How long will it be before the members that have the money to buy the products stop viewing this board? The kids that are polluting it have no respect for communicating their thoughts in a logical manner that is taken seriously. A topic that started out about a technical problem ended up being a topic about readers trying to dechiper what was being asked and then the original poster defending himself. Free speech for all, but at least speech that is legible.................. BillyT

Clutch spacers will soften it right up to desired feel????? BillyT

Great to hear Clark. So what pilot jet did you end up settling with? BillyT

Now now superfly any more of your cheek and I will not provide you with any more physics leasons. The bowl extender......... This carb is about 30 years old now, do you really think that if this extendor was needed that Mikuni would not make one and offer it as an option? I have not seen the particular extendor mentioned, but I have seen others. BUT as Ron M was hopefully getting to if its lowers the main jet into the float bowl it increases the head pressure required to lift up the same amount of fuel from the bowl. Think of it as when you lower the jet towards the bottom of the float bowl the venturi has to lift the fuel higher with the same amount of vacuumm to get into the jet stream and in to the cylinder. This is not a good thing as it can cause all sorts of problems at higher RPM's. The tube now becomes (through the jet and then the extender) longer that the fuel has to travel up (fighting against gravity), you have increased its length but not the amount of vacuumm. If that were the case there could simply be a long tube attached to each jet with the jet at the bottom of the tube. If it mearly gives more fuel capacity in the bowl and the jet does not protude further into the float bowl any further it is redundant. The other problem because of the extended cap protuding down from the bowl it can hit/touch on the top of the crankcase when dropping off of larger obstacles or even during regular installation. Keep in mind that if it clears the the top of the cases by say 1/32 it can and will move down when the bikes if under stress such as a jump or travelling down the trail at a fair clip. The rubber boot on either side of the carb does flex somewhat. When the float bowl or the float bowl extender touches the top of the cases it causes foaming or excitation of the fuel not to mention what it does for your float level. The bike can run lean and then rich just because the bowl is sitting/touching on the cases and vibrating away. Look at the earlier Gas Gas bikes that had the float bowl ground away on one corner for this very reason of its carb touching the cases. I do not see this option for a Kehin or a Dellorto either. Sorry dont buy it.............. Not needed if the carb is set up correctly. Superfly. nice drawings and I think you really understand what I am saying. but the Beta's gas tank is not quite as simple as you drew. BillyT

Suprflytx wrote. "Coming back down it is so steep that obviously the fuel is at the front of the tank whereas the feed tap is at the back/lowest point and we almost always have to coast back down as the bike cuts out." Mmmm I guess you missed physics class that day. Think about what you are saying/proposing. I have heard this before and it holds no credabilty as the fuel will always seek a level of the earth not the hill. Sceptical !!! Take a cup of water 3/4 full, turn the cup heavly to one side. Did the water follow the cup or did it stay parrallel with the ground.? Meaning with the cup held at right angles to the ground the water is parrallel to the rim of the cup, tilt the cup and the water is no longer parrallel with the rim but rather stays at the same plane to the ground. It stayed at the same plan as the ground and so does the gas in the tank. The amount of gas in the tank would always spalsh around trying to go through the fuel spigot. It would always try to seek the lowest point in the tank, that is why the spigot is at the lowest point. If you are telling me that the spigot is higher then the gas in the tank then we have some other more serous problems. There would still be gas in the float bowl. If you were coming down a hill one would presume that you were running on the idle circut (no throttle or very little) as the hill is very steep, on the idle circut the amount of gas in the float bowl is more than sufficent to keep the bike feed for fuel in this scenario. More of a problem is that the gas level moves away from the jets cuasing it to suck in some air. This is a documented problem and can be remided by setting the float level higher for more fuel. It also trys to go into some other jets that it should not (too hard to explain at this time of night). Not trying to bash your theory, but been there done, that heard that..... I do however agree about blipping the gas to keep things cleaned up. Yer na a braw we loon, but ma heids nipping wae aw this techincal patter. BillyT

Over here we can buy a product called Viagra Moose for impotant tyres. This Viagra Moose will keep the tyre up for the trial no problem in fcat you may be able to play longer than the bike is willing to. I believe JTT has a link to the web site that sells this stuff? You can e-mail him and ask. BillyT

Does anyone know who is the best contact for getting info for trials in and around Glasgow? Surely there are some riders within the area? Any feedback would be appreciated. BillyT

Dr Nick One can not simply say what is right for you they can only offer a starting point from which you can experiment from. Think of the fork oil weights as another tuning tool. The oil weight that you do end up with should allow/afford you the ability to have the suspension dial/controls set in the middle of their adjustment, this way you can fine tune them for terrain and slight weather conditions on the day. To really appreciate what I am saying, drain the oil out of the return side/rebound. and go for a short test ride. The bike should still be somewhat controlled on the compression stroke but should fly up out of control on the rebound stroke. This allows you to feel what ligher oils can do, you the can fine tune to taste. You will not feel a big difference from the same weight of oils in the forks as you would going to extremes, meaning you would really notice a change in say 20 on the comp side and 2.5 than you would 2.5 on both sides as oppessed to 5 on both sides. I have had riders in the past use as much as 15 weight in the compression side and 2.5 on the rebound. And one rider with 20 weight in each leg. A lot depends upon your riding style (how agressive you are, like how big are the rocks or ledges you are dropping off) your body weight and the climatic conditions you live in. Just like in your cars engine oil a colder climate will see the heaver oils get really stiff and lethargic on you, were as a light weight oil will get very thin in very hot Arizone/Texas summer weather. I had riders change the fork oil weight seasonaly I would recommend you always use a lighter oil in the rebound side, but only you can be the final judge in how it suits you and your riding skills. For example guys that like to hop like bunnies in the section use very light rebound oils with high spring rates. One of the reason Beta recommends the same weight oil is that it is easier to ship the bike out that way as it means they do not have to keep two inventories of oils and maybe even get them mixed up in production, but also they do not know were the particular bike will end up in the world ie climate/weather how much the rider will way etc riding skills. I would start with 2.5 in the rebound and 5 weight in the compression side. BillyT

Dr Nick and to all Keep in mind that most trials forks are usualy broken in to the following: One fork for compression One for rebound. What tends to happen is that a rider thinks his supension is to soft or bottoming out on the compression so adds heaver oil to both forks. What he does not take into consideration is that the rebound will also be slowed down by this heaver oil. One can use two different weights oils for each fork. I personaly use a 2 1/2 weight on the rebound side and a 5 weight on the compression side. This way it does not bottom out and also returns briskly without a pogo effect either. BillyT

Thanks JTT that was my post. I have worked on many different carbs throught the years and they all have one thing in common: physics.............I can use my basic physics knowledge and years of black magic carb tweeking. These basics apply to any and all carbs. The big problem out there is that everyone and their brother adjusts their carb differently, they can imagin that a carb is running rich when in truth it is running lean and vs versa. Misconceptions about what particular jet does, and when run ramapant. There needs to be a standard way of checking your carb for basic set up, fine tunning, and re-jetting. If we all use the same standard the helping each other out would be a hell of allot easier. Carb tunning is like elbows we all have one and we all have an opinon on how to set it up. A carb is also a very personal device what works for one bike may not work exactly right for another indentical bike. The same holds true for the rider he may like his carb set up one way and another ride wants a whole different set up. The bottom line is that the carb basics must be estabslished no matter the rider or bike or even the type of carb installed. Lets try and establish this standard and then move on and help each other. Any takers for establishing the carb basic, one voice one standard. The ball is in your court guys, I can help with setting a standard and posting some digital pictures and charts/graphs to help us along. BillyT

Before setting out for the day. Get a hairdyer plug it in and blow the hot air on the carb bowl/body. The bike should fire right up and run good all day long. This works brillantly.

It was the night before xmas and all through the house nothing was stirring not even a fourstroke. Awe the best fellow riders. BillyT :santawink:

Hello boys and girls. Thanks for all of the e-mails letting me know were to find you. I thought I was in a strange place when I logged on. I was and it was nice. Good work Andy. I have been busy working on "Viggen" A Viggen what the hell is a Viggen. A four stroke fuel injected trlals bike. Think of this 250 Four stroke Mikuni partial fuel injection Showa front and back suspension. User programable ignition (on the fly) Rear fender attached to the swing arm (for greater clearance) Foot pegs that rotate slightly for better balance. No sub frame Replacable carbon fiber boot guard areas. Disc brakes that are inside the spokes attached to the hub. A single sided swing arm Gas inside the frame. Run flat tires A heads up (HUD display inside the helmet) tach to tell the rider when to shift gears for better usage of torque range. A weight of 120 Ibls Four gears with the fourth one changable by the owner An electronic reverse gear switchable on the fly in a section. A memory chip for remembering what your score was in each section and what gear and rpm range that you rode it in. And lots more goodies that are in the works. :madsanta: All the best Mad BillyT