billyt

Food for thought....... Orifice of jet constant. Adding more oil to the pre mix. There is a point where adding so much oil the mix will go lean (due to the more oil displacing the gas molecules to get through a given orifice). Although the oil mix ratio has went rich the burn mix has went lean. Go figure this paradox... ask your self what is more flammable a full gas can or an empty gas can? Trials oil gas mixing ratios of the majority of riders are no where near the controversial tipping point of too much oil making the mixture go lean. We are taking about below 20:1 ratios. Oil in the gas has several jobs to do, depending upon engine design, oil the main bearings, lube the con rod, lube the piston to wall, help stop blow by. If there is a CO sensor in the Vertigo exhaust then maybe it is sensitive to carbon build up hence cutting back the oil ratio to help the CO sensor stability longevity???

"For anyone who is interested pistons are pistons they are not made specifically for an aircooled engine or a watercooled engine as in there are no differences in thermal expansion rates between the two" You mean all these water-cooled bikes are a waste of time? Why did the engine design engineers go to all that bother? Are you telling me that an air cooled engine does not lose power once it gets really warm? Are you saying that the consistency of an air cooled bikes power output was never held to the same laws of physics? While the expansion rates of a particular type of aluminum that the piston is made of may be the same (an air cooled piston vs. a water cooled piston, aluminum is aluminum, ) the environment that that piston performs in i.e. a water cooled cylinder vs. an air cooled cylinder is two different environments. In an air cooled engine due to the poor heat dissipation i.e. fins, the piston and cylinder expansion was greater and exposed the bike to a power out put drop, pinging and a seizing of the engine, hence why there was a greater gap. A water cooled bike can hold the temperatures in a more controlled environment. Basically the two piston materials may expand and contract at the same rate in theory it is the environment that is the concern fins vs. a water cooled jacket. Can I please have the name of this well know engine builder plater so as I can avoid them.....

Moulder had written in his first post "However I'm not sure if a water cooled piston can be used in an air cooled engine?" I am advising to be careful with that thought...

Trying to use a water called engine piston in a air called engine is risky thing to do. Why? The clearance on a air cooled piston to cylinder is much larger to allow expansion of the pistons during running. The whole idea of a water called engine is that the pistons and cylinder stay cooler and affording smaller clearances of piston to cylinder. A piston of a water cooled engine would be tighter and could expand very easily seizing up the engine.

10 weight in the compression side and 5 weight in the rebound side. Both are suspension oils.

Hi Retromic This won't help your leak, however for the record the Beta 4T does NOT have a fuel pump. The long chrome cylinder attached to the side of the frame is an electronic fuel shut off. The small lever dependent upon what position you have it in either shuts off the fuel when the bike is off or keeps it flowing. It is just a simple on off of the fuel for when the bike is switched off, basically a electronic petcock. There is NO pump mechanism inside only a solenoid. Cheers BillyT

Don will set you up good.

Your question can't be answered with any real sense of real world application until you state where you live.....

Diesel With all else being equal, the reason they are popping out is due to a vacuum being created by the movement of the pin through the rubber boots. Put plenty of Armor All on the rubber boots and be patient they will loosen up.

PUD Did you damage the housing or was it already damaged? There are two seals in there. One to keep transmission oil out of the cooling circuit and one inverted to keep water out of the transmission. Did you find the remnant parts of the seal? Seals are meant to be friction fit, grease will lower the friction. Message me again on FB.........

Mon bon ami dieu pas. Lisez attentivement ce qui a été écrit. Friends don't let friends strap clutch levers down for the winter.

Oni Nou I have never had this happen to me as I would never do it. How ever I do know of some guys where it did happen to. The key here is the original post and I quote "and haven't ridden it much this year." which says to me it was sitting for long period of time. ​What you are proposing is the same as tying down your forks and loading the front fork seals under pressure and leaving it that way for a while, never a good idea. Keep in mind some guys store their bikes for the winter months so I am just asking the guys to be cautious of doing this for an extended period of time. Also is the possibility that the oil soaked fibre plates can swell if the pressure is removed from them for an extended period of time. This is know from fact and first hand experience. Respectfully BillyT

It is NOT a good idea to leave your bike for a long period of time with the clutch or brake pulled in by string, elastic or whatever. This will cause premature seal leakage as the hydraulic fluid will be under pressure for a long time and will eventual cause the seals to weaken or fail. Besides there is NO need for that at all if you do what was suggested by rocking etc.

Cabby I think you should read what I wrote way back then. It is NOT just bending tangs.

Antfar unless you tell us where you live then you will not get a correct answer. Deliveries of the 300RR vary across the world.

What is ACTUALLY known about Bou's & Fujis bikes? What is known versus conjecture, guessing, he said she said etc ? How different are Bou's Fuji, and Busto bikes to each other? Really curious to learn by the knowledge out there. Thanks for the responses.

Not saying you do. However there are several people who do have issues with dragging clutches on the 260 & 300. Seems to be sporadic at best. Awe the best.........

Cornishwinspring My comment about NOT removing springs has nothing to do with clutch slippage it has to do with uneven plate release and re-engagment. This is true regardless as to the clutch being 260 or 300.

As point of reference: While the 300RR & 260 use the same basic clutch the addition of washers under the springs on the 300RR make all the difference. If you own a 260 then it is not a real companions to a 300RR in how the clutch feels. Basically how many people in this post have said how their Montesa feels yet don't own a 300RR?

Adding washers to a Montesa clutch does the opposite to that of the top hat type on a Beta as the clutch works the opposite way to that of a Beta.. The Montesa 300 clutch has washers under the spring to increase pressure due to the extra cc ( i.e. 300cc). You can remove the washers under the springs for a lighter feeling clutch. It will be just like the 260 Montesa which doesn't NOT have the washers under the springs. I would NOT remove springs as this will make the engagement and release dodgy...

A great name for a Chinese trails bike would be "Some Ting Wong"

A 13 year old bike with high compression.. suspect.......... Mmmmm Has someone installed a new piston, rings, done a re-bore? If not then maybe eat some poutin mon ami. Seriously

Where are you located in the world.......

Use a inflated bicycle tube as substitute for the Jitsie foam O ring. Works just a good or better. Inflate it and lube it up, pull it out as the new tire starts to bead.