kuelmuel

Thats hilarious, good find.

7mm? I'd just use it to be honest mate, your tyre probably waves about by more than that! (Mine does anyway, it was a tubeless X11 so I had to run it with almost no pressure in there.) My wheel is more bent than that now I come to think about it, the nipples are kind of integral to the rim now though, it's almost corroded away to nothing. I'd just use it until it collapses or cracks.

I heard from Kyle (from Brum) that your old TMS stem snapped eventually, I'm worried now. I think I'll get one of the Premiers when my Kot finally dies, they seem nice and cheap and I like the look of them, the geo seems spot on for what I want next aswell. How stiff are they? I don't want something really stiff, just stiffer than my Kot.

Didn't know you were on here Ad! Do you do motorbike trials aswell then? I'd go for a stock aswell, coming from a motorbike trials background and being rather tall menas you'd probably be better off with a stock. The Atomz Premier looks like a really good bike for the money, if you want dual maguras. I'd go for the Yaabaa 1199 though if I were you, they just came out recently and look really good value for the money.

Does it have a head steady on the cylinder head? If it does then I think it's an S, the later Rs didn't have the headsteady but I can't remember if they did in 84-87, as I don't know much about those ones. Mines the 88, the one before the pinky. They're the bestest ones.

http://www.jkhirst.co.uk/acatalog/Carb_Choke_Parts.html They should have what you need. Generally when I've dropped any of my Monos, the carb floods and it won't start again. I was told the best way to get it going again is when it's still hot, put the choke on, hold the throttle fully open and keep kicking it until it starts up. It will struggle at first and sound really sick, but keep the throttle wide enough so the revs stay quite high but not revving out, just so it doesn't stall again. If it has the TK carb, JK Hirst should be able to sort you out. EDIT: Sorry, didn't see Andy T's post.

Hey Eiger. Talon did a rear hub to fit the Yams which used the same design almost, but instead of the Z spokes you could use conventional ones. I don't know whether you can still get them, I've only ever seen one which was fitted to a bike on Ebay. It would probably be cheaper to get hold of a TYZ or GasGas rear wheel and brake and try to graft them on? I don't know the spacing of the wheel but I'm sure you could find someone who say, lived down the road and who worked on a lathe and could machine some spacers to get it to fit? Or take some material off the hub to get it to fit? I was thinking about doing this a while ago on my Yam, but I don't ride it enough really any more due to riding biketrials all the time. Have you checked the spokes to see if any are siezed? It would be an expensive mistake to buy the new rim and not be able to strip the old one down.

I just bent mine out, the actual lever that you put your foot on? They bend every time you fall off any way, I just stuck a big crowbar between the lever and the frame and gently levered it out.

I want to get a 350 mono engine, but where can I find one in the UK? I don't want to buy a modern bike, because they are rubbish, and I know the 250 is normally considered smoother and easier to ride, I've just wanted a 350 for years. I've got the info for Ellastone offroad and I'll give them a ring sometime, but is there anywhere else to considor?

It is now all in little pieces, I didn't plan on a frame upwards rebuild, but it looks like thats whats happening...

I'd also like to see pics, it's something I've wondered about looking into! Also with a GG swingarm, a fair lump of weight would be lost I'm guessing...

I'm a reet bad boy on Trials-Forum.co.uk, (for them push bike things), I got up to 40% at one point!

Is it 3? It's 3 isn't it. I don't really know, I've never dropped that many in one section! (Jokes, I hardly ever drop less than 3).

I'll just order the 520, thanks for your help!

They're the best ones them!

Definately try and get an R, (a pinky is an R technically), My brother has an S and there are several things about it that are quite annoying. The gear ratio is too low as they use different sprocket sizes to an R. The forks are too soft, on the R models, they are stiffer. The rear suspension isn't as nice to use, the R had a better shock. The tank is too big, the R has a smaller one. They have a different cylinder head, I don't know if it affects the compression ratio or anything. We also weighed both of ours, mine is 2kg lighter than my brothers S. The Rs will be worht more in years to come, as the S models were Japan only I believe, whereas many of the Rs, (mine included), are genuine UK bikes. If you spend

I havn't been around for a while, as I havn't touched my old TY for about 6 months! And before that it was about 3/4 months. I had it out yesterday, I'd forgotten how much better than modern bikes these things are! You can jump about and generally thrash around without fears of snapping something. My Bike. That is what my bike once looked like, it looks pretty tatty now, it's definately crying out for some attention. The engine seems fine, it revs up and down freely, doesn't misfire, smoke, or bang too much, so I'm planning on stripping it right back and mending all the broken and worn bits, but leaving the engine for now. The reason I have had such a lay off is I've been riding my push bike a lot, here she is for those of you that are interested. LINKY. I've made this topic as several things are bound to come up during this rebuild, and I have 2 weeks off college to do it. First question, I need a new chain and sprockets, I have a front 10t, and I know that I need a rear 35t, but which chain do I need? I think it's a 520 but I'm not certain. Anyway, it's good to be back, I will certainly be getting it out more this season, but I have push bike comps to fit in aswell...

Apparently the best TY Mono varient is a 350 top end on a 250 bottom end. I want to try it, but i have no money at the moment. I havn't posted on here for ages, I don't get to ride much any more. I restored my TY when I was 15. Well semi restored it, it looked sweet, needs aload of work now though.

I'd forgotten how gorgous my bike once was! It looks much scrappier now. I lost all these pics when I reinstalled my OS, so I'm glad I found them again!

It's a 1991 onwards then, I'm not sure when they stopped making them, I know that they started the TYZ in 1993, but I have also heard that they stopped making the Pinkies in 1995, I think. 60:1 with posh oil, I just got the cheapest I could get my hands on, and run it at 50:1, it runs perfectly every time.

Sounds like an TY250S to me, does it have a steering lock? These were on the S frames, which were the Japanese bikes, I had one, my brother has it now. They are very similar bikes, but at the same time, there are a lot of differences, the biggest are that the frame is different, and the S model has a bracket from the head to the frame to stregthen it, the R doesn't. The forks are also different I think, much softer on the S models, they sag quite a lot. I hope that from this you can tell which model your bike is.

Someone I ride with had this problem on his daughters bike, on his it was something wrong with the electrics because he had them all replaced when they burned up and it stopped doing it, he never had the top end off so I think the little black boxes might have been the cause. Get a Yam, they never stop. My 11 year old brother rides his TY "125" monoshock really well. My Dad put 125 stickers on it so now its a 125.

I love Monster boys, but not the bb rise... My Zona Zip is nearly done now, I think I'll post here as well as on TF. Oh, and if you remove the _thumb from each link then you can view them full size, just thought you might want to edit your first post.

Get it shot blasted then use as many coats of HT paint you can, then you need to get it hot, so that it hardens properly. I didn't know that when it gets hot, it melts then hardens. My left boot (white) now is an interesting shade of black. If you can, ride it on the road somewhere to get it nice and hot.

Well the clutch release mechanism just releases the pressure from the plates, if it has been stood for that long then the plates can get glued together as it did on one of my Dad's AJSs when he bought it. Remove the clutch plates, try to unstick them and clean them up, if not buy new plates. I found that using three hacksaw blades together makes it really easy to remove the sticky stuff from between the friction pads. On my last TY250S the clutch dragged like mad until we cleaned all the ***** off, doesn't drag at all now, my brothers riding it.