kuelmuel

Has anyone at all got a photo of these? i can't find any anywhere on the net

hmmmm i wonder if thats just a broken end that broke off a sherco...

did anyone see that ty350 on ebay.com that had 118 miles on it, went for about $2000? now that was a minter. If anyone has already imported a TY350 and is looking to sell it, speak up now i might be interested...if anyone wants to buy my TY175 then speak up cos its surplus at the moment...

If your going for the 205 barrel, you needn't really bother with this, but one of my friends has had his 175 barrel machined down by 1mm, I don't know whether from the top or the bottom, if you take it off the bottom then it alters the port timings. I'm not sure how much the timing is altered but its more like a mint TY250Mono than any other 175 I've ridden, its really snappy and pulls from realy low revs really cleanly. Whether you take it off the top or the bottom it raises the compression, it may be harder to start but it will be more powerful. You can also get the inlet and exaust ports machined out to make them bigger, and polished up so the gas moves more freely, this, coupled with a thin air filter and bigger jets, allows more gas mixture into the combustion chamber, which then is compressed more if the barrel has been machined down, and can flow out more easily. I would definately recommend lightening the flywheel, it makes the bike much more responsive, I'd try a WES exaust system as well, these really make a difference. I machined 50% off my fly wheel, some people have taken the whole weight off but i wouldn't recommend, they seem to stall a lot...

The only parts I have changed on this bike are the levers and I have put all stainless bolts in it (nicked from dad's works!) when I got it it was mechanically in good condition, just needed everything re-greasing and all the roller bearings freeing off in the rear shock links, as they were well rusted up! The rest is just paint, stickers and a lot of polish. If you looking for stainless bolts then try any decent hardware store, they are actually quite cheap and look mint, especially once you've re-painted the engine casings. Just a little piece of advice, never over tighten the two nuts that hold the exaust system on, because the stud can get pulled out, which strips the thread out of the barrel, this was the only problem with this bike really! It hadn't been inserted all the way so I screwed it all the way in and lock-tighted it. The same goes for cylinder head and base bolts, on my last bike (TY250S) two of these were stripped out, so beware of over tightening, use a torque wrench if possible. I quite fancy a TY350, are they much heavier and/or more powerful than the 250? I think I've been bitten by the TY bug, I'm 15 and have had a TY175, a TY250S and now the TY250R! Maybe the next step is a 350, can anyone tell me what the advantages are of a pinky over an R in this condition? (A bargin at

Actually i do have an idea for a Yam special up my sleve, but its just finding the money to buy all the bits for it... I'm saying no more at the moment! check up in a few years time I'll post some pics if I ever actually complete it...

Thanks for all that, I think I'll try to get some Red and Blue plastic sheeting and get cutting!

Thanks for that! (Not bad for a fifteen year old, twenty quids worth of paint and a lot of polishing!). Here's another pic, pity there's a size limit or i'd upload a loadmore at a decent resolution... here's the side view I've worked it out now, you can only add 200kb each time, but just keep clicking on add reply Just in case anyone's wondering, that silencer is about 3-4 years old, I just cleaned it with celulose thinners and polished it three times using Autosol, all the other plain aluminium bits I could find got the same treatment.

Many of you will have read about my old problematic TY250S, after a year of trying I managed to almost fix it, still oils its plug up but takes weeks to do so. Any way that one may be for sale now because I have bought a new one! It is a 1988 TY 250 R with a talon drilled disc conversion, I have just finished renovating it, tell me what you think...

1995? TY250? we're taking TYZ! Well if it's water cooled its a TYZ. Try phoning JK Hirst if your in the UK, jkhirst.com, if you can't find a manual from them they don't make one, then just ring them up and ask for advice if you have any problems, i bought the official Yam manual for the old aircooled TY250 monos, its great but it'll set you back

Does anyone know where I can buy some section markers? I really could do with some practice....

Sounds like a TY250S to me, does it have a shocker without the seperate gas chamber, a metal tank and a steering lock? these are all trademarks of a 250S. try JKHirst as per the manual, its not on the website but the sell the official manual which helps quite a bit, they only do a copy for a 250R though so you have to adapt the rear shock instructions etc.. 0

I am now running it with three turns out on the mixture screw, seems to have done the trick! still seems a bit oily though so any help most welcome... its taken a while so far, over a year in fact so any help is highly appreciated!

Please upload a photo I'm dying to see this! Is it a 250 mono converted to a majesty or a majesty converted to mono?

The clip on the needle is already on its lowest setting, almost solved the problem now, its still running rich but after a whole days riding the plug did have some oil on it but no black soot, I'll keep on eye out for a Mik carb though, but I'll only get one if its the right price, the TK carb seems to be hardly worn. That said though it has had a re-bore, little end, big-end, crank seals and a gear box rebuild to try and solve the problem, although the gear box rebuild was to put in new selector forks, so I know that it can't be burning its oil. It seems to oil its pug up worse when its muddy and slippy so I'm only using small throttle openings, this is why i think it might have the wrong pilot jet, so I'll try to find a new one! Thanks to all that have helped.

Thanks to all who have replied, I have almost sorted it now, a small peice of fluff was blocking one of the three small holes in the back of the carb, but it still runs rich, any other ideas? trying a new pilot jet as this one has no numbers on it, does anyoe use a different from standard piolt jet? the standard is #42 according to the manual...

Cheers I'll give that a try.

I have also just found that my bike runs with the mixture screw removed, any ideas as to why or do they all do this?

OK I'll try the chemical metal idea, thanks!

I think that my TY250S has the wrong air restricting mixture screw in the carburettor, can someone please measure theirs and tell me what length the shaft, excluding the screw head, should be. Thanks. P.S. Can someone please tell me what size main jets they're running, apart from the standard 145?

My TY250S fork sliders are pitted in several places and as a result they ripped the fork seals to pieces, even though this i bought the new fork seals about, oohh, a year ago I have only just attempted to put them in. I was just wondering if anyone has ever had to sort out their own sliders, (as I can't afford to get a basket cases forks re-chromed!) I have been told that using some wet and dry of a grindstone will take the edge of the pits and therefore the seals will simply glide over them. Has anyone got any other ideas?

Thanks a lot for that, i'll take a bit off and see what happens!

I need to lighten my flywheel on my 1984 TY250S and was wondering if anyone has done this and if so how much did they machine off? I have access to a lathe.