konrad

We've had both 125cc and 200cc Shercos in the stable. The 125 is easier to kick. My wife transitioned from the 125 to the 200, but it took a toll on her knee (which was pretty beat up from running). For infrequent starts during trail riding, it may not matter. But repeated starting during competition may be a problem. I found the older Ducati Energia ignition system more reliable than the newer Leonelli. 2004/2005 was around the changeover point.

The air at 5000 feet has only 83% of the density it does at sea level. This means the engine can only make 83% of the maximum power and torque it would at sea level (assuming it's jetted properly). It will also be proportionally easier to kickstart due to the lower air density. The number for 10,000 feet is 69 percent. You should consider that when thinking about what size engine to buy. Personally, I don't think an 80cc trials bike is a good choice for any adult-size human -- especially at higher elevations. Considering that the OP has a 2004 model bike, it's probably not in the cards to spend 3 to 4 times that for the wife's bike. A Dragonfly is not really a beginner's machine. A woman on the Facebook Dragonfly group was seeking advice after smashing her face riding one. She claimed to be a competent rider (just not at trials) but eventually gave up and sold the bike. This is a very real possibility with any bike, and you should allow your wife to progress at her own pace. If you don't mind going electric, an Oset 24.0R may be a good compromise. Honestly, the best course of action is an extended test ride on multiple bikes prior to purchase.

You can't find the manual here? https://www.sherco.com/en/download-documentation/manuals

Forgot to mention something very important. The amount of preload on the suspension springs affects the unladen sag. This can change some dimensions noticeably. When I use photogrammetry for such measurements, I make sure the suspension is topped out at both ends. This obviously does not represent real world conditions, but it makes for consistent measurements between bikes.

A lot of factors go into making an accurate compression test. A few things to think about: Compression must be tested with the throttle held wide open. I usually keep kicking until the gauge stop rising. This can often be a dozen kicks. The spark plug adapter you use can make a big difference if it increases the combustion chamber volume appreciably. For example, using a short-reach adapter in a long reach plug hole gives inaccurate (low) readings. If the piston crown and/or combustion chamber has a large about of carbon buildup, this will increase the reading. Smaller cylinders tend to have higher cranking pressure than larger ones. The barometric pressure (altitude) will affect the exact number. A hot motor will make more cranking pressure than a cold motor. Oily cylinders tend to make more pressure than dry ones due to a better ring seal. There are other factors too.

I have not yet watched this 50-minute video on trials bike chassis geometry, but at about 4.5 minutes he touches on the 2023 GasGas versus Sherco. https://youtu.be/skK-R6nT4eM After watching as much of this as I can stand (about 30 minutes) I'll throw out the following for your consideration: 1. The analysis is made in real time. I would have preferred it be made off-line and just the findings reported. 2. The analysis assumes perfect scaling of the photos. Although the scaling may be “good”, sometimes you are looking for subtle differences between the bikes. 3. The reviewer is a big guy (250 pounds = 113 kilograms) and I expect this skews his riding impressions. 4. Similarly, the reviewer seems like more a trail rider than a competition rider. I think a better method would be to take the same photos and use a free photogrammetry tool like https://eleif.net/photomeasure That, and a known wheelbase, would allow you to make comparative measurements of various points on the bikes and enter all the data into a spreadsheet.

How much longer is the wheelbase? EDIT: I just read this in the 2023 TXT owner's manual: Wheelbase 1,320 ± 10 mm (51.97 ± 0.39 in)

I agree with lemur. But in addition, just rotating the bars fore/aft can have a big effect. A set of “bar risers” is also a possibility.

I'm not exactly sure when it was (mid 1980s maybe) that street bikes began to lose the kicker. Old-timers lamented the loss. Nowadays, no street bike has a kick-starter — and for logical reasons. Bump starting became a possible (and sometimes necessary) workaround. But it's very difficult to bump-start a trials bike — although I have done it. Personally, I would keep a spare battery or lithium-ion jump-starting pack with the tow vehicle.

Perhaps it has something to do with it being your first post here? Perhaps it has something to do with Kenda being sold on the website (albeit with a spelling error) you promoted above?

Assuming there is not an electrical problem, making the starter jet richer can help. Does it have a Dellorto? If so, they have replaceable starter jets. When I did not want to wait for jets to arrive for my old TXT321, I just enlarged its original #60 starter jet hole from 0.023 inch to 0.028 inch (making it approximately a #70). Much easier to start! Figured I had nothing to lose, as I could just solder up the hole and re-drill to original size if it made things worse. The jet number is the approximate diameter in millimeters, so a #60 would be about 0.60 mm in diameter. When I drill a jet, I obliterate its original markings so the next guy is forced to measure. But I also always supply a full set of note with any bike I sell.

I did not know anything about the Ibex, but it's a great name for an off-road tire. A quick search revealed the Ibex endurocross tire. I would not ride that in a trial! How could faussy be so wrong? Turns out, there is a trials-specific Ibex, the K7104F and K7105. https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-eu/find-a-tire/motorcyclescooter/mxoff-road/ibex-trials/ Yup, that looks like a trials tire. But the durometer of the rubber would still be a big consideration for me. See: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/trials-tires

That's a good question. It seems to be a mix of parts. As I've said before, only half joking, no two EFI OSSAs were built identically. What is the 10th character of the VIN?

Sorry, no specify knowledge. But in general, if you raise the rear, the bike will turn sharper and be more reluctant to wheelie. I took a look at the Rock Shocks website. Seems like an excellent choice. I like the fact you can buy rebuild parts.

Glad you found it helpful. I should also mention something about all emulators that may not be readily apparent. 1. You must enlarge the compression hole in the damper rod enough that it's no longer an effective restriction. The emulator then controls the compression-damping orifice. If you ever want to remove the emulator, that enlarged hole must be welded or brazed and re-drilled to its original size. 2. The emulator sits on top of the damper rod. It must be removed from the fork to make any adjustments.