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konrad

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  1. The motor came from China, did it not? Look on AliExpress.com for similar brushes.
  2. Measuring the resistance of a brushed DC motor is not very informative. The resistance will vary based on rotor position. But I have a new Comex fan in my spares. Powered from exactly 12.0 VDC, it draws 1.8A. At 13.8V it is more like 2.2A. This is with the fan sitting on a bench. Impeding the airflow with something (like a radiator) will change the current draw somewhat.
  3. The problem with these "simplified" wiring diagrams is that they don't really show the electronics involved. From my experience, the heavy-gauge yellow wire is for a stator coil that powers the fan. One end of that stator coil is connected to the bike's chassis ground. The coil's resistance will be quite low (maybe 1 ohm) and the wiring itself will contribute to the reading. Your symptoms / measurements suggest a poor connection to ground at the stator end.
  4. Wow, I can see why you wanted to show that off! Sow's ear, meet silk purse. 🙂
  5. Based one the other posts, I may have to retract my idea that you buy bushing (bushes. sleeves, whatever) from an industrial supplier. The wall thickness for the ID you are after is typically 1.5mm to 2mm. Your photo makes it look like you require needle bearings. What came out when you disassembled it?
  6. Buy the correct bushing from an industrial supply company. In the US, I like American Sleeve Bearing. Not sure this is exactly what you need, but should be close: https://asbbearings.com/pages/steel-backed-ptfe-lined-metric-sleeves Due diligence is up to you.
  7. konrad

    ty250a - ring gap?

    The thing with the Japanese OEMs is that they sell rings you can just install without any attention. Wossner has chosen a more performance-oriented route.
  8. konrad

    ty250a - ring gap?

    Unless you are pinning the throttle and dumping the clutch, trials is one of the least demanding of engine applications. Maybe equivalent a lawn mower. The greater the possible temperature difference between the piston crown and the cylinder, the greater the ring end gap should be. A bigger gap is safer than a smaller gap. But a bigger gap will lose more combustion pressure / performance. The naturally aspirated spec should be fine. If you are a worrier, go with the naturally aspirated, racing spec. As with any engine, always let it come up to operating temperature before going wild with the throttle. The correct piston to cylinder clearance is equally important. Break it in according to Wossner's instructions.
  9. Yes, the FRB is just a special case of the PRBR and would have the same battery-charging problem. Personally, I feel having the same control methodology across all my motorcycles is important. Otherwise, it's too easy to do the wrong thing in an emergency.
  10. The problem with relying solely on regeneration for braking is that the battery's state of charge influences how much regeneration can be performed. You can't put any energy into a fully-charged battery. Theoretically, it would be possible to use energy to actively decelerate the bike when the battery is in a high state of charge. But that's not really the point of regenerative braking. Have you looked at Clake for a solution to your disability? https://www.clake.com.au/clake-two-dual-standard-control/ This might be a less expensive option if it would fit with the existing clutch master cylinder: https://www.clake.com.au/slr/
  11. Thanks! Your comments make complete sense, and I altered my description to reflect your comments. Basically, Send affects the controller's RAM. Whereas Save writes those changes to its flash memory.
  12. I added some content on EM Connect settings here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/controller/em-connect#h.twdhui88af1z Because I don't have a bike with EM Connect, it's all from a theoretical perspective. I'd appreciate any real-world feedback on my descriptions.
  13. What a mess! I don't envy that job at all. When reinstalling the magnets you must alternate North and South poles around the perimeter like this: N-S-N-S. You can check it with a compass. I don't think it matters if an N or an S goes by the keyway. But to be safe, maybe teamferret could check his?
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