konrad

Personally, I would write "Not Applicable." If only numerical values are accepted, then 0 and 0. Alternatively, can the fields just be left blank?

Congratulations! Your solution was exactly what I tried back in 2014. Since then, however, I have come to understand that pre-powering the fuel pump is not necessarily beneficial to starting. OSSA/Kokusan Denki "baked that into the cake" when they determined the start-up fueling. I wont argue with your success, but if you have difficulty starting the bike under actual use conditions, or just want to learn more about the system, these pages are relevant to my findings: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/my-upgrades/using-a-battery https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/easy-start https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/1-kick-starting

Looks like you are getting your wish (sort of). I embedded an official EM video at the end of this page: https://sites.google.com/view/electricmotiontech-com/home/em-epure-race/controller

I just downloaded the 2022 manual. The red screw at the bottom is compression damping. There is no mention what, if anything, that other screw (your green arrow) does. Damping adjusters all work in the same way. The number of clicks/turns out from the lightly-seated position (fully clockwise) determines the damping. The more clicks/turns out, the softer the damping. I generally unscrew the adjuster fully, counting clicks from fully seated, to determine the maximum range of adjustment possible. Don't be afraid to experiment. Just make sure you know the starting point so you can return to it if necessary. Make notes. A sensitive rider may be able to feel a single click difference. But start by changing 3-4 clicks at a time so you can notice the change. Honestly, it's not insane to try the extremes of the range so you know what the adjustments feel like. Just be cautious when riding. Don't begin with your biggest obstacle. EDIT: To develop a feeling for what the clicker do, I recommend Andy Ibbott's "Suspension Education Program." I talk about it a bit towards the end of this page: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/chassis/marzocchi-forks

Yes, that is the rebound adjuster. As faussy said, opening the valve gives less rebound damping. That will make the rear more "bouncy."

It is interesting that the controller finally has a new part number for 2023: 2023 TL02R-50301-00-00 $1,871.00 2023 CONTROLLER 2022 TL02O-50301-00-00 $9,999.99 EM-CONTROLLER (2020-2021)

EM's marketing literature says, "New linkage ratio for 2023 improve rear-suspension performance and increase rear wheel grip in all situations." Maybe that's what you are feeling? When you look at the part numbers for the dog bone and rocker, they are unchanged from 2022 to 2023. Perhaps the 2023's Reiger shock is a different length? Of course, it's possible they changed the swingarm or frame but I think that's unlikely and I did not bother to look up those part numbers. 2022 12TC02O-30108-01-00 $113.94 EM-RIGHT TIPPER 2022 8TC020-30111-00-00 $121.75 EM-REAR SUSPENSION LINK (2020-2021) Units 2 2023 12TC02O-30108-01-00 $113.94 EM-RIGHT TIPPER 2023 8TC020-30111-00-00 $121.75 EM-REAR SUSPENSION LINK (2020-2021) Units: 2 I guess it's also possible the 2023 dog bone is different but they don't yet have any to sell and that's why the parts lookup says (2020-2021) for that item. EM's parts lookup leaves much to the imagination.

Congratulations. Should have mentioned that the heat also degrades any locking agent that was present. I recommend using Red Loctite when installing new studs.

I've had excellent luck getting studs out of aluminum. The coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum is roughly twice that of steel. Using this fact, I heat the aluminum with a propane torch. Then I apply a penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) while still hot where it can seep in. Depending on the level of corrosion involved, sometimes waiting is necessary and sometimes more than one application will be required. Removing the studs while hot is helpful. This even works for a steel/steel thread like a spoke and nipple. Obtaining longer studs is very doable. But you may have to resort to getting them out of China via eBay or AliExpress.

If you think it's an issue, then it's an issue. Personally, I'm a stickler for making the suspension work properly on whatever I'm riding. I'm also in the US, and it's typically only 10 days shipping time. Splatshop's support and pricing is unparalleled. The price you see without logging-in includes VAT (which you won't pay).

Tech only makes 3 spring rates, one of which is for over 90kg. SplatShop is an excellent resource for this information: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/tech-39mm-fork-spring-ally-steel-forks.html They sell a large variety of Ohlins springs as well (with rate guidance): https://www.splatshop.co.uk/ohlins-rear-shock-spring.html

Because I was applying to new plastics, I just used a household cleaner called Simple Green. That stuff will rapidly strip the oils from your skin! For anything more than a quick wipe-down, I wear gloves.

I can't speak to the look of the "stealth" version, but the quality of Jitsie's stickers is excellent (comparable to OE). Some notes on the application process may be found here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/jitsie-mudguard-stickers

My interpretation is that they are all the same and it's just a matter of programming for 14 cells via the buttons on the back. It's hard to find but Amazon has the user manual on their website: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/A142GjruVlL.pdf

Yes, it estimates SoC from voltage. I tell everything I know about it here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram

Yes. More information here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/tech-39mm-forks

AliExpress.com Lots more information here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/fuel-injector

For those interested, I have built a website devoted to Electric Motion trials bikes. I intend it as a give-back for all the things I've learned via the internet over the years. There is no advertising or commercial content. https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home Edit: Forgot to mention there's a very effective search tool built into the website - just use the magnifying glass at the upper right-hand corner.

I sold my 4RT a few years ago but the service manual said Mode 1 (press small button) is for dry terrain. Mode 2 (press big button) is for wet terrain. I really could not tell any difference and removed the switch entirely, which locks the ECU in dry mode.

The clutch has 3 stages of adjustable spring preload. Position 3 is maximum preload. There's more information about it on my webpage: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals EM made a video about changing the plates here: https://youtu.be/DGLoEmGWLW8

As the title states, I'm looking for a particular TR250i map. The exact name of the map is "20130727_OssaTr250i_Evo2.rom" I have two ostensibly 2014 model year bikes. The early TR250i came with the EVO2 map. The later TR250i came with dual maps. I have tried all available maps and the one I prefer is EVO2. Does anyone have that map file? I have not seen anything between EVO2 and EVO6. So I'd be willing to try EVO3, 4, or 5 if they exist. Thanks in advance!

I find it interest that the Explorer has both a main filter capacitor plus a filter capacitor in the EasyStart box. This latter capacitor is only connected when the fan is running. The trials bikes with factory EasyStart dispensed with the main filter capacitor. I think the entire EFI system was a learning process for OSSA, and perhaps Kokusan Denki as well (whose 2T experience was with snowmobiles). I also think it's difficult to generalize too much about how the different models operate. Not only are the "maps" themselves different, I believe some of the ECU firmware may be different as well.

I've noticed the same thing. And they did not design the box for easy AAA cell removal/installation. I've anyone has a dead EasyStart box, I'd like to reverse-engineer one of those too.

To check if the EasyStart is working properly, connect a voltmeter between the Red & Black wires at the 6-pin diagnostic connector. Momentarily actuate the kill button. You should see something close to 9 VDC for 30 seconds. If you don't, replace the 1.5V Ni-MH AAA cell in the EasyStart. Or simply remove the cell and charge it outside the bike. The bike's electrical system does recharge this cell at a trickle rate. But I think if the cell gets really low, the trickle charge becomes insufficient. Lotus, I'm not sure how you can start the bike while actuating the kill button. On the trials bikes, the kill action overrides (as it should). Perhaps the Explorer is different? I no longer think it's necessary (or perhaps even desirable) for the fuel pump to run prior to kicking. The fuel pump and Injector are powered by a seperate winding on the stator (I'm in the process of reverse-engineering the ECU). You can learn a lot by "teeing" a pressure gauge into the injector's fuel line. Most of the time these EFI OSSAs will start on a single kick if everything is working properly. The problem is that the system is quite complicated with lots of potential for things to go wrong.

Information on US website says yes. http://www.trsmotosusa.com/2020_TRS_One_RR.html http://www.trsmotosusa.com/2020_TRS_One_R.html