konrad

Nope. That's an unusual combination CDI and high-tension coil. Silver box is the rectifier/regulator.

Substitute the thermostat (switch that is in the radiator) with a piece of wire while the engine is running. The fan should run. You can test for DC voltage between the wire leading into the thermostat and chassis ground with a multimeter or a 12V light bulb. BTW, the alternator comprises the flywheel and stator plate behind the flywheel. The yellow wire from the stator provides power for the fan. The stator emits AC and the regulator changes it to DC and and limits the voltage.

You can test the fan itself by applying 12 VDC directly to it from a battery. Fan motors often fail if the bike gets pressure washed carelessly.

Yes, it's repackable and you must drill out the rivets. Oil is a bit like religion, and you will get all manner of answers. A white paper by Maxima indicated that small cylinders require a greater proportion of oil than do larger cylinders. The reasoning is that they are being worked harder and revved higher. But if you are not using the engine to its full potential, it's possible to have too much oil. It's entirely possible the carb is jetted too rich and that is exacerbating the problem. I have found that the needle jet tends to wear oval over time and this causes rich running. Before tuning leaner, I recommend replacing the needle jet. You should also clean the entire exhaust system. Without doing that, you may not realize when things are right because it will keep oozing old unburned oil.

Also, using K-Scan you can globally enrich the mixture (up to 15%). The will help cooling, but also will tend to soften the performance (which might be a good thing for a Factory being ridden as an Explorer). Globally enriching the mixture will also decrease range by a corresponding percentage.

The TXT also lacks the Pro's diaphragm clutch and patented "4 gear-pairs provide 6 ratios" gearbox.

The radiator is in an atypical place on the OSSA. I suspect the fan can't push as much air through it as if it were hanging out in the breeze like a conventional trials bike. I'd be curious what 2 maps are in your bike. As far as I know there never was a hard/soft map combination. Here is a list of the final .KDA maps produced: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/pc-software/map-loading-software K-Scan will tell you what map is in the ECU, but won't change it.

There must always (when hot and cold) be a small amount of free play there.

What's the best lube for a gearbox? Gear oil. What's the best lube for clutch plates? ATF. Pick what you want to optimize. Electric Motion got it right with the FACTOR-e, They used two different lubricants in two different systems. The gearbox lube is separate from the clutch lube.

Do you have the dual map capability? There were specific richer maps for road use. Pure water has the best heat transfer properties. The more antifreeze in the cooling water, the worse the heat transfer becomes. Of course, no antifreeze means you lose boil-over and corrosion protection. I have used a product called MoCool by Motul in roadracers where antifreeze is prohibited: https://www.motul.com/lv/en/products/mocool

Your clutch is not disengaging. Possibly a problem with the clutch master cylinder (handlebar lever). Is it leaking? You may need to install a new "clutch pump piston". At the very least, give it fresh mineral oil and bleed any air out of the clutch hydraulic system. I added part numbers for the clutch pump rebuild kits here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/clutch#h.sf023em3dqtp Definitely change the gearbox fluid as well. Use any ATF that's available where you live. I would ride the bike for 1 hour and then change the gearbox fluid again. 7 years is a long time, regardless of hours. Inspect the drain plug magnet for metal particles.

At first, I thought 50 km/h was expecting a bit much from a kid's trials bike, but that is realistic from a test I just read. Although I have no experience with the 20.0R, I also just read that it has separate adjustments for power and speed. I would investigate the "speed" dial. Is it adjusted for max speed and not defective? You mentioned technique training. I take it your son is not riding it as a trials bike because 21 km/h would be more than enough for backyard trials practice.

The GG manual may be a typo. But if I had to guess, I would say the published spec may be the torque use by Morad's wheel building machine (likely with a lubricant on the thread). It has no bearing on tensioning a dirty spoke by the end user. This test shows the effect of torque on a lubricated thread versus a dry thread: https://youtu.be/-hSmtLVESSM?t=999 The link drops you into the relevant part, but the entire video is worth watching.

After seeing those spoke torque specs written in newton-meters, I agree they do seem low. As a very general point of reference, a standard M4 fastener might require 3.5 Nm, and an M5 fastener about 7 - 8 Nm.

Will it restart easily immediately after a hot shutdown? That would be a clue whether heat-soaking is the issue. Is this bike new to you, or is it a new problem? Could be something as simple as using "winter" vapor-pressure gasoline in the summer.

So it's difficult to start only when the ambient temperate is high? How does it start when the engine itself is hot? Have you checked the valve clearances?

The OSSA version of K-Scan will not work with GasGas - despite them both being Kokusan Denki ECUs.

I considered buying a spoke torque wrench when building some supermoto wheels a decade ago but decided it was unnecessary. Although torquing may make sense for brand-new spokes, by the time the threads see any mud, water or just dirt, tightening torque no longer has much relationship to tension. And proper tension is the thing you are trying to achieve. Tension does have a relationship to the sound the spoke makes when you hit it. Ducati even decided that sound was the best indicator of cam belt tension.

I assume they are Morad rims. You could try to contact them directly https://www.moradsa.com/ and ask for torque specs.

A bike that new should not need this trick, but in addition to lemur's penetrating oil, particularly nasty ones need heat. I generally give the nipple a quick blast with a propane torch. I always make sure I can loosen a nipple prior to attempting tightening. You can tell a lot just by sound. Try tapping each spoke with a light tool (screwdriver, spoke wrench, etc.). Tight spokes will ring. Loose ones with thud. You want them all to sound similar. I don't own a spoke torque wrench.

The nominal size for a flywheel puller will almost always be a whole number (e.g., 26, 27, 28, 30 mm, etc.). Like all fasteners, a flywheel puller is measured on the OD of the male thread. A 30 mm puller will measure about 29.8 mm (slightly smaller to allow clearance). Presumably, you are measuring the ID of the flywheel (female thread). Adding the thread's pitch (e.g. 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 mm, etc.) to the ID you will get close to the OD. Lacking a thread pitch gauge, you can compare bolts of various known thread pitches to your flywheel. You will need good light and possibly magnification to make an exact match.

The hex nut that's screwed into the flywheel looks like an adapter for a common bolt. If you remove the hex nut, what does the flywheel itself measure? Most of my pullers are in the M25 to M28 range. 1.0 and 1.5 are the common thread pitches.

I've made a number of throttle cables from scratch using bicycle brake cable and homemade brass ends attached by soldering. It's easiest to start with something close and modify it. In the States, Flanders sells a variety of stuff to build your own cables: https://www.flanderscompany.com/collections/cable-parts

Don't know how desperate/adventurous you are, but some Ducati Energia stuff appears to have been cloned in India. Here are two examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195766384472 https://www.ebay.com/itm/384465870455

How do you know? There is no "R" in the size description for the front. Yes, the bullet point says "Radial construction" but I think that only applies to the rear.