Dillypoop

Who makes real carbon fiber guards for the forks and frame? I only see these "carbon look" bits. I've tried a set before and they broke very easy. I'd prefer the real stuff if I can get it. It's a '17 250 factory, if that matters.

I'm looking at picking up a new bike. I'm narrowed down to a couple bikes - a '17 250 factory and a '19 300 anniversary. The 250 vs. 300 doesn't really concern me - I can do good with both. The thing I'm most concerned about (and what've I heard repeatedly from other riders) is the '17 has a much stiffer clutch pull than the '19. Other than that the differences are minor. I was told by the dealer that the '17 has had the belleville spring "updated" to the new part and matches the pull of the '19. Is that really the only difference between the two clutches? I'll get a chance to ride them this coming Friday before I buy but want to know if that's a common update for the '17's? I'd like to save a couple thousand and get the '17. But if the '19 really does have a much better pull then I'm going to get that one.

"New" as in new to me. The '19 is a sponsored bike. The price is set and not really negotiable, unfortunately. The guy who owned it is our local club president and is supposedly very good with maintenance. His son rode it for a season at the local Master level. So it'd be reasonably used but not abused. Never practice time on it - just events. I can go with a '20 as well. But that's yet another $1,200 on top of that and it's still used but was used at the TDN.

I'm new here so sorry if this is the wrong place for this thread. As the title states, I'm looking for a new trails bike. I previously had a '10 GG 300 Raga. It was okay but was well used and had problems. I'm looking to get as new as possible now (what makes the most financial sense). So I've narrowed it down to a new Sherco. I've ridden the '18 300 fst and it was great. There's a dealer with a '17 250fst and a private seller with a '19 300fst. I'm a newish rider and am still mastering the basics. I'm used to a 300 trials bike / racing off-road with 300's, for what it's worth. I've been told the '19s clutch is significantly better than the '17. There's a $1,500 USD difference in price between the two with the '17 being a little more worn but in very good overall condition. Is it worth it to spend the bit extra? I'm leaning more towards the '19 even though it's a 300 and a bit more.

What are the signs of a chipped idle gear tooth? The clutch is awful noisy and goes away when the lever is pulled in. Also, when kickstarting the lever seems to skip a tooth every now and then. It's around the same point so I'm assuming it's the pawl gear slipping from the idler gear. I pulled the cover and the pawl seems fine but I can't see the back of the idler gear to know if it's chipped. I must be too hard on this thing. It's one thing after the other it seems!

I got the puller in today. The stuck knuckle came of in a second... Super easy when you have the right tool huh? Also, figured out the problem. The kickstarter shaft hole is out of round and ovalizing over time. Time to patch it and wait for it to completely give out, I guess!

Harbor Freight has its place in this world and pullers is not one of them! I actually did look at them here and I don't think I can get them to work. They only had a 3 jaw puller (limited space so not sure it'll work) and the jaws slip easy (why I wanted the "caged" posi-lock). Since there's nothing really good to grab on to it'll be rough trying to get it to seat properly.

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Lock-202-2-25-Reach/dp/B001B842N6/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW8Y8mbYgTHIcESoxMdb4dwsnLiXw1u9YfDPRZFwvuR_njB_V8y_YdRoCi_cQAvD_BwE&hvadid=295554651345&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027421&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2042848891297368543&hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-392049629711&hydadcr=949_9642204&keywords=posi+lock+202&qid=1557326486&s=gateway&sr=8-1 Y'all think this posi-lock 2.25" puller will do? It looks like my best bet. Most of these other pullers I have/can find don't have a good way to attach to the kickstarter base.

I think that's going to be my best option. That thing is on there good. I'll see if I can come up with something to pry it off.

I’m assuming it’s possible to pull the clutch cover and kickstarter shaft all in one bit?

Back onto this... I can't get this kickstart pedal base off. It seems to be stuck on the kickstart shaft splines. I got everything else out but doing the "trick" in the Jim Snell videos isn't working too well. It's been soaking with some kroil for a bit. Hasn't helped. Any other tricks? I've rebuilt basically everything besides the engine that could be rebuilt. It has been sitting for too long and I'm and impatient fella.

Well, there’s a very very small crack. It starts at the bottom of the shaft and goes down a few milimeters. It doesn’t look like anything that’s a big deal but must be big enough for it to spread with a kick and loosen the seal.

No, there is no bearing there. I will check for a crack. It looked fine last time I looked. The PO had some issues with it and said he had to replace it often. I think it's a different problem. I believe he "patched" it by using some black RTV on the lip of the seal. It didn't come out before I replaced it last. I do remember a washer being on the inside of the clutch cover on the kickstart shaft. I wonder if it could be missing and that's causing the issue? Or a worn out kickstart shaft.

My kickstart shaft seal keeps coming loose and leaking transmission fluid. I'm not sure what the deal is. It's a new(ish) seal and has consistently done this - is it normal? It happens when kicking it over. It's almost like the kickstart shaft has some play and it's wiggling the seal out. Any ideas for keeping it in there? Some silicon?

GasGas TXT80 Info.PDF GasGas TXT80 Info (2).PDF GasGas TXT80 Info (3).doc Here's some info Jim sent me about the TXT80 models if it will help anyone else. It's a general spec sheet (.doc), a slide mod diagram and a clutch cover tutorial.

Thank you. It's a PHBG21DS and it looks like a single vent. I was talking to Jim Snell and he said he bets the fuel was left on and it'll drain from the tank and into the cylinder over time when transported on a trailer (or truck). Weird but okay. Ordered the head gasket, some other miscellaneous gaskets, and a new rear brake MC. The old one's piston is seized in the bore. I did also notice the boot coming from the airbox into the carb is full of holes. Has anyone been able to make up a replacement for this? Apparently the manufacturer "lost" the mold.

Have any of y'all made a air filter for the '99 - '01 (and possibly others) model "flat" air filters? They seem awfully easy to make and would sure beat the $30 price of an OEM filter. I'd assume you can just use some high density (high PPI) foam from a local shop? Any insight?

I picked it up on the front tire and pushed the kickstarter getting most of it out. Really kicking it got more to shoot out of it during a compression test... That was fun. The plug is soaked and probably needs to be replaced. I noticed the NGK the PO replaced it with looked new and it seemed like it was a cooler plug than needed. If I recall, it was a BR9EIX. I'd figure a hotter plug would be needed with the time spent at idle in trials? The BR9EIX is a plug we generally used in high-compression dirtbikes. He most likely just threw that in there since that's what he had. I checked and they seemed fine. I'll throw the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner and get everything else really clean. Do these Delorto (sp?) carbs only have vents and no over-flow lines? What about a set float height? I thought it was pulling in gas from the intake vacuum. Maybe not? I've done that also. It was full of it... I do like how easy they are to remove on this bike! I've not been able to find a workshop manual for this bike. Does it even exist? Thank you for the pointers. I'll most likely be draining all fluids and pulling the engine to tear the top end down.

I just picked up this GasGas txt80 yesterday for cheap ($600 US). It's a 2001 model, from what I can gather. The PO said the bike was "hard to start and running poorly." Well, I got it home and tore into it to figure out what it is. First thing I noticed was fuel EVERYWHERE! They just cleaned it off when they brought it to sell, but fuel had filled up to the expansion chamber and all the way back into the carburetor. Weird, but okay. I noticed the carb fuel vent line was missing so I added that. Maybe the float got stuck and couldn't flow out fuel because it couldn't build up head on the vent being as high as it is? Second thing I noticed: "Well taken care of." Ha, right! Then, I noticed this: I guess that'd cause it to be hard to start, huh? Gas was squirting out of it and the head pipe while trying to kick it.. Anything else y'all can think of to check first before ordering parts? Spark is good, it's wanting to start. Compression is 165psi. Seems high for a head problem. Rings, piston and cylinder look fine but I haven't measured ring end gap yet; just a quick look through the exhaust port.

Howdy y'all, I just picked up my second trials bike a few weeks ago - a 2010 GasGas txt300 Raga. It's been a good little scooter and I've gone to a couple trials events already. I've been riding off-road most of my life, so this is a good learning experience! My previous trials bike was a '03 Scorpa SY250 and I just picked up a '01 GasGas txt80. So, I've come here for some help rebuilding various things on these bikes!