Viper808

Thanks Mark! Excited to see/hear your reviews on it. I can imagine that it is very capable and fun for tight woods riding but I’m more interested in seeing how it manages very technical terrain/obstacles that usually requires clutch work as well as how it does on steep hill climbs.

Does anyone know if a compression relief valve has ever been successful implemented a 280/300i? Would it adversely affect starting since it is fuel injected? Thanks!

Hi Mark. Did you get your Electric Motion Escape R yet? I’ve had my eye on the Escape for a while now. We now have a local EM dealer too. He only has the original Escape available as a demo. I’m interested in the power and rideability improvements with the R model. Would love to hear your opinion. Thanks!

Pretty straightforward process. You’ll need a small pick tool or a very small screwdriver to push out the remnant woodruff key. The new key will position itself. The most important think would probably tightening the bolt to 40 ft-lbs.

OMG. Thank you! This happened to me a few months ago. Crashed, throttle jammed, over-revved engine. Wouldn’t restart after picking up bike. Didn’t have the mental energy to troubleshoot the problem. After seeing this post I pulled flywheel. Sheared off as suggested. Thanks, will order a new woodruff key. Any suggestions on preventing it from happening again? Want to assure my riding group they won’t have to tow me back out of the trails for the same problem! Thanks again!

Planning on replacing all the bushings of the linkage suspension of my 2013 Explorer. I can only find a 2012 Explorer parts manual. Are all the bushings the same between 2012 and 2013 Explorers? Or should I use the part numbers from the 2013 TR280i parts manual. I compared the p/ns between the 2013 TR and 2012 Explorer and couple of the bushings p/ns are different. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Got a replacement ECU. Bike is running again! Found it here: https://www.molinarigroup.it/ out of Italy. Had to use Google translate to navigate the website! They had a brand new ECU as well as some "hard to find" side plastics and rear fender!

Konrad now that you mentioned it I realized the rubber seal is missing. Pretty sure it has been corroding for a while and then eventually broke causing the no run condition. So update on the fix. Took it to my jeweler with the plan to grind around the pin stub and solder a wire to it. Instead he said he can remove the assembly from the casing and replace the broken pin all together. So I got it back new pin perfectly positioned. He said he used a paper clip ground down flat to match the shape of the pins. It was looking like new all resealed using jewelers epoxy. Excitedly got home and installed it. No start. I couldn’t even energize my fuel pump w my lipo easy start system. I think it must gotten fried with too much heat. I asked him to use 60/40 tin/lead and use as little heat as possible. Not sure if it’s worth opening it up again to see if a connection got broken as it was being reassembled. Oh well it was worth a try and a valiant effort! I might have found an ECU at Lewissport. Adrian is checking to see if he still has it. Will let you know outcome. Thanks!

Korad, thank you again. Performing all those checks you suggested ultimately lead to me discovering the fault. It ts pin 18 which is at the very end of the row. It should be easy to access through a hole drilled through the side. I’ll let my jeweler know about the lead solder. If he doesn’t have any I might look around to pick some up for him

Peter thank you! That is brilliant! I’ve been thinking how I could sleeve and resolder the pin back on. But the wire idea is easier and certainly more dependable. I’ll give it a shot. Actually I’ll have my jeweler give it a shot. Any tips on the method or type of solder to use? If he can’t do it I’ll find out your availability for a trip here to Hawaii! Will let you know how it works out! Thanks ks again.

Found it! After careful inspection again. I discovered a pin on the ECU corroded and broke off. I didn’t see it earlier because it had broken off flush so it was not visible. The pin was stuck in the connector. It is broken flush so I don’t think I can repair it. Now the million dollar question. Where can I get a replacement ECU? I’ve googled w no luck. If anyone has a line on one or have one willing to sell, please let me know. Hope I can find one. Thanks!

Thanks for the advice. I’ll check continuity between connectors. Will let you know! If I can’t get this fixed, might end up putting down a deposit for the Sherco X-Ride after all!

Unfortunately I don’t have neither the cable nor software. I’ll attempt to electrically test each sensor per konrad’s notes. Thanks!

Desperately seeking help to getting my 2013 Explorer 280i back up and running. BACKGROUND- while riding and slowly accelerating in 3rd gear bike abruptly losses power and stalls. Checked for spark- ok. Changed spark plug. Stlll no start. Disconnected fuel line and checked fuel flow-ok. So I know I had fuel and fuel pump pressure. So I had to get the bike towed out of the trail. CURRENT DIAGNOSIS- IGNITION- Strong spark visible. If I squirt some fuel into cylinder chamber and reinstall the spark plug, it fires up and runs strong until the fuel burns off so Im assuming the entire ignition circuit is working properly. FUEL PUMP- Pressure is 50 PSI static. I have a 11.1v LiPO easy start setup so I can energize the fuel pump so I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge. 50 PSI. I think fuel pump and associated wiring is okay. FUEL INJECTOR- I removed the fuel injector and reconnected it outside of the engine. Reconnected the fuel line and electrical connector. Energized the bike’s electrical circuit w LiPo setup, kicked engine over and no fuel spray from the fuel injector. So I have ordered and replaced the fuel injector, still no fuel spray. WIRING- Cleaned and reconnected every possible electrical connection on the bike. Still no start. ECU- Only thing I can’t test. Is this where the fuel injector gets its signals from? Can just the fuel injector signal go bad? Is a replacement available anywhere? Or could a faulty TPS or one of the other sensors cause this condition? I’m desperate! So thanks in advance for any feedback to my problem! Thanks!

Holy crap. I hope I can remember how it was wired! Here is all what I removed!