Loose Bruce

Hi Guys, I thought you may be interested in seeing the finished product. Chrs Bruce

Hi Chaps, My next question please! Does the clutch have its own oil bath or does it share the gearbox oil? It looks to be the latter, because I cannot find a clutch drain or level plug. The bike manual is a bit vague. It just states that the "gearbox" should have 900cc of SAE 80. Thks Bruce

Hi Guys, It worked perfectly. I did a temporary "sticky tape" test and the engine started 2nd kick. I will now use the permanent glue. Thks Bruce

Good News, bad news. So, I managed to get the flywheel off with my homemade puller, only to be met with a corroded and dirty set of electrics, but even worse are the loose set of magnets. They have all shuffled around, not leaving a gap in between. The corrosion has obviously weakened the original glue. Simple to clean and re-glue, if you know where to glue them. I guess they are to be equi-spaced around the inside of the flywheel, but where? I would think they have to be correctly positioned in relation to say the keyway. Does it make a difference if you just simply set them equi-spaced. Maybe not. There does seem to be a mark where one magnet may have been, so if they are equi-spaced, I can position the other three. Bit of a risk, as you only get one chance to get it right! Does anyone have a picture of said flywheel with magnets installed, or any advice. Maybe put them in with some good double sided tape or silicon. Once I find the correct position, glue them in properly.

No such luck ! I can only assume that I need to make a flat plate puller, drill with 3 holes to match the threaded holes in the flywheel. Then drill a centre hole, weld on a nut, then ues a bolt to push to flywheel off. This maybe easier said than done.

I just spoke to Sammy on the phone, and he seems to think that the flywheel has an inner threaded section for a screw-in type puller. Will check tomorrow to see if the Maestro is correct.

I watched the video, but it looks as though Sammy had previously loosened the flywheel, hence it came off so easily. It would also appear that a Motoplat ignition system was installed, which is different the what i have on my bike. It is not a 2 part flywheel. So I am going to make up a removal plate with centre bolt to remover the flywheel. When I manage to start the bike it is blowing back through the carb, which makes me believe the timing needs adjusting. Not sure if it needs to be advanced or retarded. It may even be some form of pre ignition. It could also be a faulty CGI box. The list is endless. I will check the Suzuki system, should I need to replace the existing. As for using a strobe, would I not need to find some timing marks on the flywheel? If all else fails then Sammy Miller lives 20 minutes down the road from me, so I may ask his advice. Thks Bruce

HI All, Does anyone know how to remove the flywheel on the Hiro engine. It seems to be in two parts. Does it need a special puller? I am trying to get to see the ignition system to see if it is set correctly, which leads to me next question. How do you set it?? Thks Bruce

Can anyone suggest a good replacement for the existing Amal 626 carb Mikuni, OKO or similar.³

I am giving the forks on my Merlin a service. The forks are telesco, which I am not familiar with. Does anyone have a tech manual for them? Only one leg has a spring with a pre-tension mechanism. The other seems to house some sort of damping/rebound mechanism, with a 1 to 7 dial. My main question is how much oil in each leg and what grade? What does the 1 to 7 dial do? Chrs Loose Bruce

Does any member have some historic details of the 37A trials bike, produced by AJS in the late 1960's ? From what I can find out is that 100 bikes were made ( Cotton actually made the frames and Norton Villiers the engine). I have number 99 in South Africa, but have no history of the bike. AJS themselves do not have any records of these bikes.

Hi All, Can anyone help me out with a copy of a user manual for my Merlin trials bike? It is just the basic data I need and in any language. Thks Bruce

Hi Lee, Here is a pic of mine, which has been confirmed as a genuine Comeefords Cub. Get in touch with Mike Estall at Tigercubclub.com. He can confirm if yours is indeed a Comerfords and you can get a dating cert from him. Shout if you need help. Bruce

Hi Guys, I hope you,can see from the attached photo, that the hairline crack is in the very bottom part of the skirt, where the piston never gets to. The best solution is to re-sleeve it no doubt, but down here at the bottom of the African continent, that could be a greater risk than a repair. I have managed to buy a very good condition 2nd hand oversize piston. I like the idea of drilling a small hole at the top of the crack to stop it propagating, then a bit of prep and brazing should hopefully do the trick from what you guys are saying. Hopefully the force is with me !!! Bruce

Hi guys, I want to try and repair a small crack in the bottom skirt of a Tiger Cub cylinder. The bike will not be used on too much of a regular basis, so I hope that this repair can be successful. I am in two minds though as to how approach this repair. Do I braze it, Oxy/acetylene weld, CO2 or similar inert gas weld. Has anyone tried this? My head tells me to braze it from a joint aspect because it is flexible, but from a welding heat aspect, a quicker CO2 weld seems to be the way to go. Obvioualy the crack will be prepared accordingly prior to repair. Bruce