Creepytheclutchmaster

The sump drain plug is the large alloy Allen key bolt on the underside of the engine, it should be able to be accessed by a hole in the alloy bash plate. To free the clutch off properly id take all the clutch plates out get some very fine sand paper and gently sand each friction plate. (not the metal one's). using some gear oil on the sand paper on a perfectly flat surface in a figure of 8 or circular sanding motion you don't need to sand much off probably 30 seconds per side with not much pressure pushing down on the plates. I used p1000 from halfords it's work form a few times over the year's.

Hi all I have a 1974 sherpa t fuel tank that has been cleaned out 3 time's, but after sitting with fresh fuel in it for 20mins or so I'm getting a yellowy brow colour liquid selling in the fuel pipe. I'm wondering if these old tanks can handle new age fuel or is it slowly desolving lol. I'm thinking about cutting the outer shroud of the tank off and using some other tank underneath to keep the original look. The original tank look like it fiberglass or something. Cheers

Not shure on the weight I'd say somewhere between 15 and 20 kg. Thay are called a zongshen zs190cc with 212cc bore kits available. Iv ridden the 190cc engine and thay are quite powerful sound pretty good to. the first generation engine had a problem of dropping out of second gear thow and needed a slight mod to the shifter star.my yx140 engine is mounted with a engine hanger I made out of mild steel 3mm sheet, basically L shaped plates cut out, drilled and grinded to fit , then mounted of the original engine mounts so I can still fit an original engine if I come across a good one. If I fit a 190/212 engine il probably have to modify the frame more as thay are slightly longer and wider. Il get some more pictures next time I'm in the shed.

Yep unfortunately my local trials club is closed so iv torn the lawn up,managed to take it to some local scrub land for a bit of mud bogging and it seems these little engines are quite capable shame the flywheels are pretty small or thay would be a perfect replacement engine. Im thinking about putting a newer 212cc version in it now as they have a bigger flywheel clutch and electric start set up. The original engine is in a container on the way from America but it not known if its a runner or scrap.

If its been on a day time mot before you don't have to nova it. It should be on sorn by the previous owner and he should if asked for your details to change the ownership of the bike when he sold it.

I brought this 1974 bultaco sherpa as a rolling chassis a couple of weeks ago. and as abit of a lockdown project I decided to put an old 140cc engine in it that I had knocking about the shed.it actually rides pretty well I didn't think the engine would have the power but it picks the front wheel up no problem. just got to get a smaller front sprocket, finish some welding and a smaller seat.

Get some g clamps and lengths of angle iron loosen all the spokes g clamp the angle iron over the buckled area's heat gun the rim then tighten up all the spokes as equally as possible hopefully it's pulled the buckle out abit then finish the truing in the forks. Probably be cheaper and easier just to put a new rim on unless you have things like g clamps and lengths of decent angle iron knocking about.

Try splat shop he has a good knowledge off spares for all bikes, failing that beta uk would be the best. if its a late techno it may be the same as an early rev 3.

Try making a truing stand out of some 3x2 timber. Use coach bolts as your rim guide or just true it up in the forks use cut down thick zip ties or some other type of macul as a truing guide.

I had a similar problem, iv fitted a yx140 engine in a bultaco sherpa rolling chassis and the tank was fouling the throttle cable. The spinner was only about 6 quid from redcircles easy to modify as well being soft alloy.

Try a carb spinner for a pit bike. You can move the carb to different angles with one it might be a cheap option to modify it to fit your carb.

Buy a mechanics stethoscope and you will be able to find the location of the noise, I used one to diagnose a damaged bearing in a kubota hydrostatic gearbox you will find the area the noise is comeing from in no time without having to strip the engine.

Anti clock wise, and you will need a impact wrench. I tried removing one with a long bar no chance if its been done up properly before.

that rules out sourcing a bigger cc motor then,iv been doing abit of trawling tonight and did notice that in the photos. I found that the crankcaseing are the same on the 125 as the bigger cc engines, and on a old thread someone has bored a 125 to 185 but for the money that would all cost its going to get a transplant .ohh well it was brought as a project for my spares anyway cheers for the info.

Hi all just had the ebay itchy fingers and brought a 1976 sherpa 125 rolling chassis, I'm wondering if the frame is compatible with the bigger 250/350 engine's or is built especially for a 125 motor. I know the wheels are 1inch smaller than the 350 etc but that's about all the information I can find on frame dimensions. I have two potential motors to fit in the roller, a yamaha 125 aircooled 4t the type that comes in the tyf or a pit bike engine. I'd like to fit the yamaha engine but there will be a fair bit of fabrication as it's probably a little taller than a 125 air cooled 2t, but if I come across an original bultaco engine of a bigger cc I might go down that road cheers.

Watch Ryan Young trials videos on YouTube, loads of little tips I watch one yesterday that had a wheely section in it.

Sounds more like your middle exhaust box silencer is gunked up with 2stroke oil, and your exhaust o ring's are probably old and worn so you get oil dripping from the joint on to the engine down the back of your clutch cover housing making you think its gearbox oil. ? Elimentary my dear whatson... ? Get a blow torch take your mid box off and blow torch it until its stops smoking.and repack your rear muffler whilst your at it. It Worked for me.

Endless sphere electric motorcycle fourm is the place to ask that question the people on there know everything about electrical control systems.

There is loads of spares for that type of gas gas engine on ebay,if you clutch plates are not stuck take the clutch rod pusher part of the engine and make sure the cylinder inside is pushed in before bleeding you may have an air stuck inside then rebleed the whole system.

Try running the breather to a small transparent catch tank of some sort, maybe a large fuel filter or something, se how quickly it fills up. Mount it higher than the breather outlet then the oil will run back in to the gear box if it fills up the filter in mins you definitely have a air leak if its just abit of spatter you probably have to much oil in your gearbox.

Yeh I suppose the oset would be tamer. I'm not impressed with the battery life on the 24 my friend has one and gets about 7 miles out of it if ridden in anger non stop woods popping over logs small climbs etc, thay don't like long hill climbing eather and can overheat cut out I'd say thay are an electric downhill mountain bike styled for trials but Hay thay are great fun and lighter than a scorpa,I sound like an oset hater but I'm not thay are fun and almost reasonably priced lol. but if moneys not a issue and I was going electric again I'd would try a emotion or something like that with a clutch.

After owning a highly modified 20r I think think the osets are fun and great back yard play thing but don't compare to a petrol bike, thay have pretty poor rst mountain bike forks and a low end mtb dnm shock, sram brakes. If you upgrade one you will end up spending thousands.try a scorpa ty125f or 175 4stroke if you can find one. Thay will set you back about the same money as a decent oset 24.

If you run just distilled water it will boil up after about 15 mins, Iv use prestone pre mixed antifreeze in all my bikes with no problems. Most old 90,s forks use about 350ml of oil in each leg so start with 300 and you can always top it up if you feel the damping change dramatically when compressing the forks, it will usually be at the top of the stroke if you haven't got enough oil in.

Yeah the second hand mountain bike world has gone crazy with people advertising 15year old knackers for a grand, the thing is alot aren't selling and just relisting. the second hand market is flooded with bikes brought in the first lockdown and because of the original price hike when you couldn't buy a bike people are trying there luck, can't blame em tbh. A year and half ago it was hard to sell a dh bike for any decent money because of the trend in enduro and trail bikes, prices have sky rocketed but thay are not selling. Not quite the same for trials though bikes are selling well, iv been looking to buy something for two months but gave up after some of the old sheds iv been to see, one bike iv seen do the rounds is at a dealer is a scruffy looking gasgas jtx 1998 advertised for 1995 bold tyres n all someone might fall for it but Now the trials club is locked down iv gave up for abit.

How does useing to much oil cause a lean mixture?, does the fuel injection system recalibrate itself to keep within certain parameters, iv never owned a fuel injection bike so dont know much about the system cheers.