Johnny Reggie

I've had a Nitro and am now on a Busto with the battery assist. I understand (from Vertigo UK) that GET are producing a new WiFi com device, new hardware and software, for the battery assist models. Vertigo are waiting for this. A couple of observations; Firstly, get the mixture right - it's 30Ml synthetic 2T oil to 5 litres of fuel. Your oil in the airbox is not an issue, the gearbox breather returns to the airbox by design, I've had oil in the airbox after the bike being upside down a few times. Don't worry about it. Your running issue sounds very much like the TPS needs a reset. Have you adjusted the idle speed via the throttle stop? ( as you know if you adjust the idle via throttle stop then you'll need a TPS reset). My Nitro sooted plugs until I increased the idle speed. My Busto was supplied with a higher idle speed and it has now dropped back after approx 6 hours riding time, absolutely no issue with plugs. As you have no device to reset the TPS, or diagnose, its sounds like a dealer return. Cheers

Westygas You should be able to trace the headlight wires back to the connector in the rubber boot in the headstock area and simply disconnect it. I'm struggling to remember but I think it involves some unplugging of the other two connectors in the area and replugging them directly, so where you had a loop out for the light its now gone. What was three connecting points becomes two. There's only one way they can go. I think either the kill lanyard and/or map switch are linked in at this point. Sorry I'm a bit vague but there's certainly defo no wire cutting involved.

Hi Ballisttic When my Nitro was new I found that the clutch did not disengage cleanly, even after endless messing with lever positiont. I moved the ring to position 2, no improvement. So, I cleaned behind the spring plate under the adjustment ring as it collects swarf and stuff, went back to position 1 and just rode the bike. I would say it took 10 hours or so riding for the clutch to improve. I have since cleaned behind the plate again and the clutch is now great. On the leakage front, no issues for me just take care with the gasket and ensure the case is located properly. Do you know for certain that oil is coming from the casing and is not collected by the bash plate at the drain point? Good luck.

You do need to hold the clutch somehow. I bought a holding tool from eBay for just a few quid. The centre nut does have to come off to change the plates. For what it's worth I would replace the friction plates at the same time so that you get the full benefit of a fresh clutch. Take care to align the dots as per the manual on reassembly otherwise the clutch will not work... Cheers Reg

Hi Primodious I would appreciate a copy of the manual when you have a chance please. Thanks very much Reg johnholdsworth369@sky.com

My pleasure. You're right it is a dark art and it does require some searching to get to the information. If the suspension police see this then doubtless I will be butchered in my bed 😂 It would make sense that the Mont has a stronger spring than the Vertigo. I have a Vertigo these days but haven't had it apart yet! I am intrigued as to why our spacers were both smaller on our bikes. With respect to the springs, Top to bottom, they are heavy duty, Medium and Soft. I installed the medium and all was well. The 2.5W Motul is the equivalent of the OJ 5W (and also Showa SS05). Cheers, Reg

Here's a link from Splat Shops site regarding Tech Springs for Alloy stanchions. You can identify the spring by the number of tightly wound turns. You probably know this already but the oil recommended is an OJ product which we can't get in the UK. Comparing the specification the nearest product that I found was Motul Factory Line, Very Light 2.5W. As you say it is easy to make a spacer. I'm sure that it will improve matters. Cheers

I had the same issue with my 300RR. For me it started when the front was solid when cold. I discovered the previous owner had put heavy oil in so I returned it to standard spec. Then it was way too soft. I found two things; firstly, the spring was a soft one so I replaced with a standard spring. Secondly, I found the spacer was like yours, looked to be smaller than standard. What alerted me to the problem was that there was no resistance when I removed and then replaced the top cap, almost like the whole assembly was too short. I made up a replacement - double the size - and immediately improved the situation. But I was keen to get to the standard and correct spec so I ordered a replacement (I bought this from Splat Shop UK, Tech do a kit with the nylon cap and spacer. It was somewhere between the two extremes. You'll see in the pictures, the small one removed, the middle one is the standard replacement and the large is one that I made. Hopefully, this will give you some idea of the size. Sorry I can't measure as the bike was sold. Good luck

Hello SDW As far as I understand there are three Tech Spring options. A Soft, standard and stiff. The springs are identifiable by the number of compression turns. The standard spring (12 compression turns should be suitable for rider weight of 75-90Kg. I discovered this when I bought a Mont 300 (aluminium tubes), turned out that someone had replaced the stock spring with a softer spring. Take a look at Splat Shop's website and you will see this along with an indication of rider weights. Hope this helps.

It's usually either low tickover or your clutch isn't disengaging fully or both. With the clutch, check your lever set up and refresh the DOT4 fluid in the master.

I wouldn't hold out hope for a discounted past model. Honda did this for the 2018/19 300 as far as I could tell but now times are different. I know that Honda have recently been throttling supply, to some extent (supply chain issues, I'm guessing) so dealers have found it hard to take bikes into stock and, where they have stock, they seem to move them pretty quickly. In a nutshell demand seems to roughly match supply. I generally have a trade in so my focus is on getting the best price for the old bike and paying list. Discounted road registration is usual and maybe a few goodies at cost is probably as good as you will get in this market.... Good hunting Reg

I am 5' 9" and 78kg, 39" chest. I usually wear a medium in say a MOTS or S3 trials shirt but generally hover between medium and large depending upon the brand and how fitted it is. I ordered both M and L in the Stone 4. Medium fitted better in the body but was too tight under the arms. I went for the large as it felt more comfortable, particularly with the gillet in. I would say if you're a slim build in the arm and shoulder then the medium will fit a treat. I've worn mine a couple of times and never with the Gillet - it's just too warm for riding in my opinion. I don't think they are billed as waterproof and they are not. Hope this helps Cheers Reg

Hi You have all the usual suspects above. Here's a few more simple ones:- 1) Have you made any changes? Simple stuff that may effect connections etc. Like taking the headlight off.... If so retrace 2) How fresh is the fuel? 3) Did the plug you changed come from a reliable source? 4) Give the bank angle sensor a knock, make sure its not stuck. Cheers

A quick thought. Maybe someone has put a slow throttle tube on the Vertigo? If you roll back the grip it’ll be black. Fast ones are white. That would tax your wrist more....

Next year's model will be back to red ? I've just bought a grey one and love it but I reckon the colour will date quickly (have some red bits coming). Not so keen on the black fork boots... But underneath all that, same great bike ?