Kdtx240

Hi all moved the bike to another shed and the float valve dropped out - had to buy another one of those before anything happened. fitted the 110 jet slight improvement - adjusted the needle as far as it could go plan is to fit 120 jet and see if it gets better. if not then 125 or 130 jet. I do think it is a fuelling issue that will be fixed by a bigger main jet and have one on order. funny I was recommended an electronic ignition but they are expensive, luckily my points is good and I have a backup stator/ignition. - I fitted one to a cr250 because I had no other choice- the cdi's die and replacements are rare as hens teeth - was not impressed with the fit of the pickup to the flywheel despite a lot of tinkering, I cant remember the clearance I got but it was a very small feeler gauge. it did start. I am bringing this bike back home to finish and am quite excited I done all the linkage bushes on this one and it should be very tight and the engine is good. good to talk to you all again. 👍

i am actually wrong my main jet is 88 slide is 50 atomiser is av266 bn264 came originally. original needle is lost my carb is off a 240cc so 280 is much bigger and needs more fuel float jet is 200 float needle looks good and i put new white "floats" in the bike could actually be lean bogging and creating a black plug as it never gets cleared out making it look like rich I am going to go with an X7 needle and 110 main jet check float height and take it from there

put new condensor - used 12v from a nissan car - it looked the same. I earthed the condenser to the coil and got all my wires going to the coil and soldered the whole bunch together. I removed the flywheel and disconnected the old condenser isolated it and got all the wires that were connected to it and soldered the whole lot together. I gapped and cleaned the points the old condenser was not bad and this helped the bike marginally. I can rule out the ignition now - the bike was supplied with a working ignition and it was. my carb is a phbh26PS I dont think Eurocarb lists this particular model to get the specs from. Standard Jetting for a phbh26 bs 40 Slide X7 Needle 266AV Atomiser 110 Main jet 50 Idle jet 70 Choke jet 200 Float valve 9010.2 Float – 6.5 grams My Carb is completely different I think the slide is stamped 110 or 90 or something wonder should i just get a working carb off a swm 280. trying to tune a carb that the maker does not list seems like a lot of faffing around. then again fitting an X7 needle might solve the problem its the needle jet at fault the bike wont rev high but you could lug it about all day I am also confused where this main jet is - i thought there was usually 3 jets in a carb pilot jet needle jet and choke jet?

hello The bike bogs down after quarter throttle and creates a lot of smoke under load. It starts and idles fine and will start first kick when hot, 2/3 kicks on choke cold, and if its lay up for a month it will need a spray of starting fluid but always starts I have tried to adjust the fuel screw and needle height and even replaced the needle for an X2 and needle jet for i think av266 or As266 engine revs crisp in neutral, I had thought it was running good and was surprised when it bogged so badly starting to think it could be the condenser but my only reason to back this is a post I read about a users bike "4 Stroking" and bogging they replaced the condenser and problem solved. I do have a good spark it can be seen and heard. Another user posted how to mount the new condenser under the tank. Does the flywheel have to come off to fit? I don't want to start accumulating carb jets and I feel the timing is ok as there is no detonation I used the bike to feed sheep all winter due to the low gears and I didn't rev the engine so just got by this way. now I need the revs to round up the sheep. the plug is a rich condition oily petrol mix black. the airbox is missing a basic filter is mounted but this would mean more air and possibly a lean condition so its not that. please advise easiest or best way to mount new condenser or suggestions welcome best regards KD

Thanks that worked it was found the clutch was continuously engaged as advised. took the bike a quick spin as the evening was coming to an end and it seems quite acceptable Hopefully have all the gears, definitely 123 The front shocks need redone, with corrosion of the chrome causing the seals to fail. How can this be fixed?

The level screw is approximately in the middle of the case- looking at it wouldn't suggest it holds the case on is that right? Is there a way of adjusting the clutch mechanism other than the cable?

So check if the little mechanism is not engaging the clutch through the plug, is that right? I had about 3\16 of slack at the lever or a coin width. 1000ml atf dextron in the gearbox

Hello After a full strip and rebuild i am having a problem The gears are selecting as I can hear them click and I checked them before continuing the engine however i have no drive. The clutch also wanted to move the bike forward when pulled in. It is almost as if the drive was not getting to the input shaft of the gearbox. New clutch plates were fitted and gears were all ok with no broken teeth or dogs. A bearing was replaced on the gearbox shaft. I cannot look at the bike until Monday evening. I would appreciate your input.

Hi all Got the engine sorted new kickstart arrived today slowly getting there

Just a quick update Have the cases starting to split. The front half is very tight and stubborn. It's starting to go but I'm not taking any chances. I've ordered a case splitter tool. There won't be much progress until this arrives. Flywheel put up a fierce battle too. Might be a fortnight yet.

Hi I'm actually stripping my motor My ignition works Here's a photo for you

Update Got the clutch working Was unable to select a gear but the 2 shafts are turning free inside the gearbox It's either stuck in neutral or in a gear I think it's the shift mechanism causing the bother the gearbox is good on this one Hopefully take the side cover off and something might be obvious. Just a case of examining closer. Got new bars on and the clutch working so that's ok just the shifter mechanism. EDIT= I searched the internet and it's looking more like a case split job. Martinswm talks about a tensioner arm jamming behind the shift barrel and This seems the most likely thing. This would explain why it's in neutral. I can imagine such a thing from my kx125 build. Can I use the old crank seals or do I need new seals? I don't want them to fold over when removing the crank and shafts. When this is done she will run.

Yes I'm very happy with the results and progress I'm working at her this Saturday so I'll take a picture so the clutch assembly attaches to the case and unless you take it off on purpose it remains in place say even if you remove the side cover to work at the clutch , is that correct? And the cable connects to part number 7 is that correct?

Hello everyone Today I started up the tx 240 for the very first time she pinged into life after turning the air screw about 1.5 turns out and idled just fine what a beautiful lazy engine in comparison to my bonkers kx125 and all those horrid chainsaws I have been fixing recently to make a bit extra. not much to report have to source a few parts mainly a clutch lever, bars, chain, and some kind of air filter. Does the clutch cable just attach to an arm of some type to push the clutch? Should there be a rubber to keep dirt out between the clutch cover and the cable . Or does the cable fit in and seal itself in. we can say there is one more aprilia tx about now. Thanks to the effort and skills of many people. Be safe everyone. Keep riding.

Hey everyone so the last 2 Saturdays have been spent on the tx 240 got the exhaust on had to timesert a rung head stud this was not fun at all made a chain slider i need an air filter may fit a k&n to the carb and not need any air box and the decompression valve had to be removed to fit the old tx 240 exhaust to the swm 280 head the bike creates a lot of interest now due to its age and “footery” work regards karl.