movingtarget

Ug, even sorer today, was on the bike for hours last night. Just exploring, finding steep things to go up Juggling work(outside all day in the hot sun in boiler suits and wellies) with my obsession with riding up things on the bike in the evening really takes it out of me!

I did that last week when my girlfriend came to see me while I was riding. Seen a big steep rock I'd never done before and said 'Hey watch this'. I managed just, jumping off the top with the bike going left and a leg going right, held it together though Might be hooking up with a couple riders later, I think big climbs will be the order of the day. I'm pretty sore after last night!

Sorted

Thanks for the reply, I think I'm going to practice on the 3 foot steps some more but the proper way and not the 'splatter' way On a side note I had a fricken amazing time on the bike tonight, went for miles and miles through remote hills, no trails, no fences, just heather and rock did a few 5 foot verts but they had a slight ramp at the bottom to get me moving vertically. I think I live in trial heaven, part from the fact I have to travel 80 plus miles to get to an event or even a city.

Working up to big steps seems to require a bit of a leap() of faith it seems. I live near an abandoned marine lab thats got long 3 foot high steps, and 5 foot high steps. Now whenever I've tried the 3 foot ones, I seem to clatter against it quite hard, technique being bounce, throttle, wheelie, hit with back wheel first. I think I can do the double blip technique for smaller steps alright.... and 4 foot steps I can do but not concrete, just peat banks which are pretty soft. My question is how do you work up to a 5 foot step? I know a kicker helps, and guts, but what should I be working on now to build up the confidence and technique? By leap of faith I mean that the technique is quite diferent between 3 foot steps and 4 foot + steps. Thanks for your time.

Its a 270. My favourite hill has a runup of like 15 feet before it gets really steep, the acceleration from a stand still in 5th is awesome(i dont like that word but it suits hehe ) As for what Lewis GasGas said about 5th and 6th, I agree. Very short spacing between 1-4th, then 5th and 6th are much higher geared. I've not yet tried 6th on a hill climb but 5 works great, just give it some revs and let the clutch out slowly as you accelerate, balancing your acceleration and engine strain with the clutch. I'm sure you all know that anyway

For longer climbs I go into 5th gear, lots of revs and let the clutch out slowly. For shorter steeper climbs 4th gear, being carefull not to wheelspin and keeping my weight back, but coming forward again at the top letting my momentum carry me. I'm no expert though, never rode at an event just. Its about time I did though.

How can I check for this? Would I check this by giving the flywheel a wee wiggle about a quarter through its cycle? I've had the silencer off a couple times(once fell off while riding, dont ask!) it wasnt clogged but definetly quite gooey round the edges.

Thanks for the replys. BetaRev3 - Yes I have been doing that when the engine sounds bogged down or not responding quickly and it seems to sort it out. PeterB - I will try adjusting the carb needle although I've experimented with this a few times, I've done the carb mod which I found here last year, choke I switch off imedietly after start up, 'Other less likely scenario's, oil seal passing on the clutch side letting in gearbox oil to the crankcase.' This I have no idea about, will have to have a look, but not sure how or what to look for! 'Cylinder bore badly worn - quite unlikely in the view of the age of the bike.' The small end bearing was replaced last year after the bike got stuck in high revs after a crash it sounded fine after that. But this is what I'm worried about, something wearing. By haggard I mean that knocking sound starts, but it is hard to tell. I might just be imagining things but I'm pretty sure it didnt always sound like that. It goes away under revs. Thanks again

So in the past few weeks I've had my bike out every night after a long break. Its an 04 rev3 270. Same problem with the spark plugs that I had last year, they seem to be building up with carbon and cutting out the engine every other night. I've been switching two plugs back and forth, just cleaning with a brass brush which makes them work fine again. I've been using exactly 75ml of oil(trials specific) to 5 litres unleaded with a good shake, NGK bp5res(maybe? definetly a 5 in there). I cant figure out whats causing this, I've replaced the cdi last year, and I have a spare stator which I could put in if I know thats whats causing the problem, trouble is I dont know... Also its hard to tell but there might be a knocking sound coming from the engine, this happened before and I had to get the small end bearing replaced, it was more obvious then but now its really hard to tell if I need to do anything about it. Every now and again it sounds a bit haggard, but then at other times it sounds smooth... If anyone could offer any advice about these problems I;d be very greatfull, cheers! Not riding comps due to location, mainly heathery hills, and rocky beaches, rock formations, rivers and BOGS. My gf's grandad also has a scrapyard full of ****** cars am eyeing up

Will check for sparks as soon as I get more spark plugs! When I phoned up beta imports they said it was most likely the stator that was needing replaced. Thats a lot of money for something that may or may not be the problem.

Thanks, I will try all of that.

Thats another 3 plugs used up this week, dunno what the hell to do.

Damn.... Same thing happened again today, rode for an hour then the bike felt like it was loosing power in the upper revs in fourth and fifth gear. Then it really went bad, misfiring and backfiring. New plug and its fine. 3 things I'm going to check next. Exhaust system, timing, and inflow of petrol. Going to take the bowl off the carb, turn the fuel on and see how fast it comes out. Not sure what to look for with the timing though, anybody have any links to sites that shows how to set the timing up? Or could you explain it maybe? I'm sorry for spamming this thread, but it might be helpfull for somebody else who gets this same problem in the future.... I know its made me to be moody as hell recently! Will try stretching the spring, sounds like that should do the trick for the mixture screw.

The spring is still there, but its not keeping the screw in place.

I had noticed before there was a spark jumping between the metal bit of a black box and the frame, this black box is supposed to be secured on the same frame which holds the top of the radiator. I used a long bit of insulated wire, one end on the box and another on the frame to earth it. Got some spark plugs today too and the bike seems to be workin fine, only took it out for 20 minutes though as its blowing a gale here with lots of rain. I got soaked Hopefully the problem is now sorted. One question though, the little screw on the carb which I have set at 2 turns out(is it called the mixture screw?), doesnt seem very secure. In fact even with tape over it I think it still came a few turns out by itself. Whats the solution? Ptfe? Dont want to lose another one.

Main jet is 150, pilot is 30. Gave the carb a good clean out with wd40 and an airgun(airline not rifle ). Huge bit of peat came out of a tunnel that leads to the long brass pipe, I think its to do with the choke. Not much dirt anywhere else in the carb. Need to wait for more plugs, but hopefully it'll work right now, if not I will check the exhaust... if not that then I havnt a clue what to do. Could moving the clip on the throttle needle back to the middle position be all that was needed? Hopefully after all this it'll be a mean clean neither rich or lean machine

The last 5 spark plugs I've used have been either NGK BP5ES or NGKR BR6ES. Will check all the things mentioned in the next couple days, wont be able to try it out until I get more plugs which will be at least 2 days. This next week is my holiday and all I wanna do is ride! Patience is not my strong point

Ok will check those, although what exactly are the reed valves? One thing I also did today was change the clip on the needle(that sits inside the very top of the carb) back to the middle setting. Couple months ago when some mechanics were sorting my bike out they moved the clip up one place, moving it back down will increase the flow of petrol? Could that possibly be one of the causes? One other thing I should mention, I might have said it before some place, the fan only comes on very briefly after a lot of revs, it doesnt seem to work unless the engine is very very hot. Many thanks for the help

It is definetly a mikuni carb, and looks identical to the photos on the r2w website where you're setup is. I've set the higher and lower travel of the tangs and the hoses have been cut as you suggest, except the one at the back is still short. At the top of the highest tower, which I'm assuming it the main jet, is written 150. Is the pilot jet sunken a cm or two inside the hole next to it, and extracted with a screwdriver? If so I dont have a screwdriver to fit it and will have to wait a day or two till I can borrow one that fits... About the weekend mechanic thing, I have no choice. I live in the middle of nowhere, and my only transport is by bike so I cant get the bike to somebody that knows what they're doing without help

Betarev3 - Thanks will have another look later. BillyT - I adjusted the tangs so that they point to the top of the pilot jet when upside down, although your second adjustment i did not understand how far to adjust the tab, 1/16th? how far is this and from which point? The vent hose on the back of the carb had been pressed against the exhaust, and had actually melted shut, so I cut it off about an inch from the carb. This shouldnt affect it too much should it? I also still need to cut them at a sharp angle. One other thing I noticed is that the colour of the petrol in the carb looks a stronger blue than when it is just mixed, plus there is traces of this stronger blue underneith the carb where it has leaked. At least I think its more blue than it should be, it never looks that blue when i'm pouring it in. Could this mean the oil is seperating from the petrol? I always give the can a good shake before filling the bike, but I cant exactly give the bike a good shake if its been sitting put for a couple days!

Many thanks for the responses. BillyT I've tried looking for the size of the jets but couldnt find any numbers. Other than thoroughly cleaning the carb what else could I do?

I'm using 75ml of Putoline trial tt pro to 5 litres petrol. I'll give the carb a clean and check the air filter though. Do you reckon there is not enough air getting through? I know adding oil to the air filter wouldnt help the situation if thats the case but last time I checked it was pretty dry, whats the best way to oil it up? cheers

I seem to be going through a plug a day at the moment. It always happens after about an hour and when accelerating away in 4th or 5th gear. I'd spend most the time in 2nd or 3rd then go onto a road or track in 4th or 5th, accelerate away, at which point it dies. The plugs always look black and slightly suity. I can't figure out what it could be... Anybody know what could be the problem? The engine always seems fine up until the point it dies.

On my 2004, the screw goes into a long metal bolt thats hexagonal at the end. This had lost its grip on the airbox so the screw wouldn't screw into it, I used some arelite to secure it. I guess the bolt must be missing on your bike as it would leave a large hole. You could always just ducktape the thing on! (would probably be more watertight )