p@ul250

I've been running with Dunlops on my outfit for the last two years with no problems. You have either damaged the valve stem or the tyre when fitting them. I choose the Dunlop because it stays on the bead when subjected to the high side loads (rolling) we get.

Splat shops 250 piston kit (£128.00) is about the same price as a Beta or Gas Gas piston kit. But If you think the Layland tractor parts fit go with them. You may just need a very big hammer to get them in though.

2013 and 2014 Evo 2 stroke stators are the same part number. normally if the stator breaks down, thats it NO Spark at all. But here is a link to the test procedure.http://www.betastatorrewinding.co.uk/testing-your-stator/ Hope this helps.

We make our own. Buy a coil of fencing wire, use a piece of round timber with a slot cut in the top( I have an old chair leg) Cut the wire into lengths of your choosing and with the timber in a vice, pop the end of the wire in the slot and wind the wire round one and a half turns. Then repeat until you have the desired number of marker pins.

The Benzine in unleaded petrol will osmos through a plastic tank and lift the stickers. Best thing is don't leave petrol in a plastic or glass reinforced plastic(GRP) tanked bike.

Well done on joining the brotherhood of the third wheel! You chair looks very well made and is a credit to you. If you ever fancy a little trials holiday by the sea, come on over to the eastern centre and the Norfolk & Suffolk Junior Mcc. We run sidecars at all our trials and are working to get new, young and novice crews into the sport.

My one is fitted with a set of Jitsie stickers. much better quality than the Beta ones and are still good after doing the Ssdt last year and then eight months of sidecar trials

I know what you're saying about the old set up on the Rev 3. But I think at the highest level the top riders were needing the change and so Joe Public will want it also. Just look at the number of clubman riders about on Raga replicas, Repsol Hondas and Evo factory replicas. As for the water in the air box try a bit of reticulated foam (pond filter foam) cut to fill the gap in the frame around the top shock mount. Also at wet trials I duck tape the airbox access hatch in the rear mudguard/seat. With the outfit I quite often land up standing with my right foot on the seat area and have noticed the hatch opening up a bit.

Next time you have it stripped down for greasing (I do mine every two months and I don't use a jet wash on the area of the bearings) have a good look at all the top hat bushes (inner part of the bearings). You may find that some of them have developed grooves/notches on the outside face where the needle bearings have hammered them in. If so this will be the exces play. They are quite cheap to replace, also replace any needle bearings that have been paired with bushes that show signs of grooves/notches. When reassembling sit the bike on its wheels before you torque all the bolts up and check them regularly. The swinging of the bottom of the shock is consequence of the way the rising rate suspension works.Have a look at the way the knuckle (right angled piece with three holes that sits between the swingarm, dog bones and the shock) moves as the suspension is compressed. All the bearings have and need a very small amount of clearance or they wouldn't be able to work. Unfortunately this clearances is magnified by the length of the swingarm. As for why Beta changed the suspension setup from the way it was on the Rev 3. The Rev 3 was last centuries technology and if you don't Evolve you die. I would be very surprised to find the shock bushings needing replacing on a 2014 Evo. As for replacing the bolts, have a look at each one and replace if they are showing signs of a step or groove on the shaft (I'd only expect this on a 2014 if you had been riding round with loose bolts or competing in the WTC ). The 2014 300 Evo I have has done the Ssdt (ridden to twelfth place by young Jack Sheppard) and has then pulled/supported the weight of a sidecar and passenger. I have so far had to replace two dog bone seals and one top hat bush ( the side/rim was chipped by a rock) Keep it clean! keep it greased! and it will last. I hope this helps

Hi All Anyone know the paint code for the white paint used on the 2015 Beta Evo's. I have a client wanting his sidecar frame done to match. Paul.

Wheel spindle on my outfit is 17mm as the bearings had been changed from the standard 12mm spindle type. Also better to bend a spindle than smash a wheel or bend the chair. The tyre on my outfit is a Cheng shin 2.50x18 trail type.

Any pattern you like. no you don't have to have a brake. But if not you'll be missing out. A brake on the chair isn't just to slow you down, it's used to turn you left and you use it on cambers and crossing ridges to dip the suspension on the chair and a load of other things beside. In days gone by the passenger would hold the sidecar wheel with their left hand to brake it. The caliper on my outfit is from a chinese pit bike. Cheap as chips and works well.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIT-DIRT-BIKE-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-PADS-XSPORT-125cc-110-/400575177328 Some outfits I have seen have a setup made by Hopetech. http://www.hopetech.com/ Best setup is to have the sidecar brake operated by the drivers left foot like this. Or this.

My lad was wearing a pair of these at a trial today, Just out of desperation. But by the end of the day said he is really happy riding with them and will use them again. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Typhoon-Neo-3mm-Neoprene-Diving-Canoe-kayak-Sailing-Jetski-wetsuit-Gloves-/220799214867?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Wetsuits_WatersportsClothing_CA&var=&hash=item3368a8a513

If it's the chair wheel size you're after an 18" wheel from a small commuter bike with a 2.50" section tyre is the most common. I think this one on my outfit is from a Suzuki Z 50.

I've just had the same problem. may be a server problem as I've never had any problems before.

I ride with an AMCA club about every second month and the day licence is included in the entry fee and its no more than the ACU clubs around here. Also the full AMCA trials licence is £18.00 for the year.

They don't seem to like the newer style tubeless Morad rims. They are fine on the DiD and all older style rims.

And promptly hand you a set of rotary seals not liener seals as you need. Better off going to a hydraulics vendor for ram seals. Or just order a set from someone like splatshop.

You could try Paul Nash trials spares, they are in south Essex. phone 07071500100 or Freestyle, Wadhurst Road Mark Cross East Sussex TN6 3PD Phone 01892 782288

My lad had a few hours to spare so build me this one with a sidecar. Thank You Joshua!

I have fitted them to three different Evo's, two 2011's and a 2014. in all cases I fitted the wires into the plug with the Black & black/white wires. this has worked on all three. If yours doesn't work this way I would suspect that you have a dodgy switch.

So Jack Sheppard will be the number one rider at Jgas. Good move Jack !

Yes it's normal for an Evo to do this. As far as I'm aware it's to do with the angle that the carb is mounted at I.E it's nose down on the bike anyway. I have even had my bike stall/cut out before. Just turn the tickover up a little bit if your finding it a problem.

The IRC is fine on DID and all older type rims. It's only the newer type Morad rims that they seem to have a problem staying on. The Dunlop is a bit stiffer in the sidewall than the X11 when new but they do soften up after a few hours riding. But it will stay on the rim if you have a puncture, used a lot by top riders for things like the Ssdt and scott trials and also the best choice for sidecar trials.

Yes it does. But you will need to drill a hole for the front bolt (as there isn't a front bolt on the 13/14s) and it would look better if you cut away the tab that slots under the frame cover that is on the 13/14s