sherpatensing

Thanks for the replies. Fairly sure they are magnesium, might just make some flares out of them. They're no good for anything else.

Can anybody help answer a question please? Montesa 360 H7 Enduro, fitted with Marzocchi forks, are the fork lowers made of magnesium alloy or plain old aluminium alloy? The yokes have 'magnesium' embossed into them. I've posted this in the Montesa section as well Thanks.

Not quite trials but can anybody help answer a question please? Montesa 360 H7 Enduro, fitted with Marzocchi forks, are the fork lowers made of magnesium alloy or plain old aluminium alloy? The yokes have 'magnesium' embossed into them. Thanks.

Can anyone suggest a trustworthy/reliable powder coater to do my 199a frame in the original blue? Preferably in the east anglia/east midlands area. I've tried a few 'well known' ones and they can't do RAL 5015.

Put it back to standard. 325 pistons are available, look on the Beamish Club website. I would suggest that fairly tall handlebars are used (unless you are very short) as the standard footrests are rather high and lowish bars tend to make you lean too far forwards.

If you're going to use it, shorten those cables

I hope the quality is better than SM stuff I've had in the past

Sorry to hear this. You must make sure the Police create a 'Police Record' for each of the bikes on the Police National Computer (PNC). They can do this using the make, model, frame number, engine number, colour etc etc. The bikes do not need to be road registered to do this, but if they are found, it makes them easier to trace back to the rightful owner. If the losers of stolen bikes cannot be found and the bikes not proved to be stolen, sometimes the thieves may get them back and escape any prosecution. It is frustrating for the Police when items are not recorded (I speak from experience) Please get them recorded on PNC. Best of luck and I hope they are found.

The Beamish Owners Club is a very interesting and useful club/website if you are fortunate enough to own one of these great machines. I have been regularly logging on since acquiring my RL325. It's a pity there are not more dedicated sites like this for other marques. Keep up the excellent work Jim.

Penno, Everyone including Bultaco UK say it is not possible to make the paint stick, but I have successfully got my 199B plastic tank resprayed by an expert (three years ago) and completed many trials with no defects appearing. The reason that I risked a respray was due to the fact that the decal arrangement was not for 199B on the new tanks.

I don't think anybody would dispute riding ability.

I have mentioned this in another post, but here are a couple of things to beware of when riding your trials bike. Section 59 of the Police reform Act allows Police officers to serve you with a warning if they consider your driving/riding actions to be causing a nuisance, 'alarm or distress' to members of the public. The warning is issued to you (in the presence of a responsible adult if you are a kid) and the report is placed on the Police National Computer and remains there for 12 months. If you are caught again during this period, your bike can be removed by one of their authorised recovery agents and you will need to cough up

Illegal bikes riding around in public places can be easily dealt with by the Police now using Sec 59 of the Police Reform Act. After one warning, if the bike/rider is caught again within 12 months, the Police take the bike and you have to pay recovery charges to get it back. A bike can now also be seized for no insurance and you can only get your bike back by producing valid road insurance. Don't underestimate 'thick plod'. It's happening.

Hello Frenchie, I commute 14 miles each way on a Honda XR400R. It is the basic version with no indicators, no battery etc. I use Bridgestone trail wing tyres and have upped the gearing slightly to make it a bit more road friendly. Using hand signals is a bit dangerous these days, as motorists are not used to arms waving. I try to avoid riding in the dark for the same reason. I know the XR is more user friendly than a PE or IT (I did use a 1981 KDX175 and a viscious Moto Gori 250 on the road) but riding your distance would be no problem. I even used to commute about 8 miles each way a few years ago on a Bultaco Sherpa 350.

OTF, My 199B is restored as per original and it rides superb. All it has different is Michelin tyres and Falcon shocks, which can easily be returned to standard. If you want the most competitive twinshock, use something else, but I think a near standard 340 is still pretty useful.

I'm sorry I can't help with the manual, but I have a 1997 Techno (in purple) and it is a superb bike to ride. I have replaced the clutch plates to cure the usual drag problems that occur when the plates get worn. I have owned it for five years and that is the only time it's needed attention. It's a great bike.

Weren't you considering getting rid of two Ossas a week ago due to lack of space...........?

I don't think an SM tank/seat will make it more of a classic. It will either become one or not (I think they have) and originality will be the key to its future value and desirability with collectors. However, sensible modifications will be of interest to a rider.

Scotty, There are various engineering firms that do this, Norton Commando heads have similar problems. They can also reclaim by welding and re- machining

Scotty, Your lack of space is the problem, not whether to sell or keep the Ossas. You will almost certainly regret selling them. Your other bikes also need to be kept as they are becoming rarer (yes, even an unmolested Beamish....you try finding a good one). If it's just a space problem, I will house them for you FOC until you can sort out something permanently. Send a PM. Dont sell...you will regret

Vaughan, I used a company called WELDSPEK in Ollerton, Notts to repair a broken fin on a Sherpa barrel and they did a first class job. Their number is 01623 835555. Speak to Dave Maddison, but phone after dinner. I have no connection with Weldspek other than being a satisfied customer. The Ossa is looking good. Well done to you and Scott.

As with my first reply, to sort the problem properly, get some new friction plates. They are very easy to fit, lay the bike on it's side, remove the cover, remove clutch bolts/springs then the plates. Re-assemble in reverse order. It is advisable to buy a new cover sealing ring as the old one will be prone to expand and will be awkward to refit.

I would have though you should have a 28mm Bing on a 350 Sherpa. They were on 350's from the 159 onwards.

Malcra, Very useful and an interesting read........ even if you are not intending to register a bike right now.

My 97 Techno had this problem and got so bad that the clutch wouldn't clear even when hot and would delay clearing when clutching in a section. Changing the oil for this brand and that brand will waste your money. Believe me, I tried everything, different oils, clutch basket burrs, plates warped, tying the lever in etc. No, the problem is likely to be worn friction plates. New ones (from BVM) cured mine instantly and incidently it runs with ATF Dexron2 fluid which is available from Motor Factors (like Partco) for about