fantic156

Try a local motocross shop they may have or know someone who has the kit. It does work, took a huge dent out my mont

My daughters 06 125 is the same, checked with lampkins when it was new and they assured us it was normal. We where also told not to let it warm up by leaving it to tickover, if you do it chokes up which can cause it to stop and be a bit of a pig to start, with lots of smoke when you try to clear it out. Blipping the throttle to warm up was the advice and it's been spot on since.

ebikeinsurance.co.uk list the gas gas and was the cheapest I found for our bikes. They do multi bike policies and let you insure using the last 6 digits of the frame number as the Reg as well. Well worth a look.

Bicycle tube pushed in the gap between tyre and rim and tyre soap (blag a jam jar full from your local tyre fitters) blow it up and as the tyre inflates pull the bike tube out, if it gets stuck drop a bit of pressure and try again. The tube doesn

I've been told by several importers and dealers not to use fully synthetic oil in a trials bike as they do not rev high or long enough to burn it off properly, resulting in black oily deposits in the exhaust system often collecting and dripping from low points. Use semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil. We use about 75ml to 5 litres of super unleaded/optimax for the Beta's and the same tends to get used in the fantic. to check the ratios try this site. click here.

I've used distilled water for years don't know who told me to or why, it's been to long. When ordering some parts off the British importers of Beta recently I checked with them about using distilled water and they confirmed distilled water mixed with anti-freeze is best. The worst thing to use is neat antifreeze as it doesn't dissipate the heat very well and I'm sure they said avoid using just water.

Distilled Water mixed with antifreeze. Just water can corrode the case around the water pump. There is a topic on this in the Beta forum that's worth a look.

Thanks for the replies. I phoned sandifords to double check and have been told that the manual is correct set the timing on the 'T' mark. Interestingly they also say the manual is correct for checking the oil, 440cc is a guide, set the level to the marks on the dipstick with the dipstick resting on top of the first thread.

PTB good idea. 2 map PTB even better nice soft map for most sections then switch to map 2 (have the standard settings on mine) for big hills, loop round etc. Just fitted the 315 master cylinder to my 06 out of curiosity rather than being unhappy with the clutch but def noticed a difference and glad I did. Try the recommended gearbox oil ELF HTX740 at least once, it's expensive but very good it will probably cure you dragging clutch. Enjoy

Following on from the error in the manual on dip stick screwed in or out when checking the engine oil level. I'm about to check the valve clearance for the first time. The manual states "aline the T mark on the flywheel with the index mark on the left crankcase cover" But I've come across this service bulletin click here Which one is right??

Some friends who play football say it has made a bit difference to any joint pain from their aging joints and a runner I know recons it has allowed them to continue competing, BUT a doctor I know who

Try CV gaiter ties from an automotive store they are just like zip ties but made of stainless steel. Much neater and a lot thinner than jubilee clips.

Thanks for the info. Filled in the form and sent it off. Will be looking for an opportunity to find out which way my MP voted

The manuel tells me to fill the leg with 5w oil until there is a 60mm air gap with the forks fully compressed for the right leg and 120mm for the left, BUT I put it all back together before reading the book So does anybody know what the air gap measurements translate to in cc of oil?

I have to disagree, I'm running a Renthal R1 with a V-mar guard fitted with no problems. It did "bed" in a little but there was enough tolerance in the bolt holes to stop it fouling the chain. Inspired to try again I've just been in the garage and Hughsey is right, the renthal chain will fit. I just didn't try hard enough the first time.

I guess you mean the V-Mar chain guard. If so you have to be careful which chain you use as the guard fits very close to the sprocket. The standard chain is fine but if you add a half link it will foul and dig a small groove in the guard. RK standard and Renthal R1 chains will not fit... I now have a DID ERT2 on the self which looks the same size as original but I haven't fitted it yet.

Really looking forward to the column.

Hacksaw a slot, apply some heat (need to be careful direct heat may damage the lacquer) and use an impact driver before you resort to drilling. Managed to get mine out without major surgery but it was close and they where very tight to remove for quite some time after they initial give. Bought some titanium ones of ebay to replace the originals description below:- "You are bidding on a set of TITANIUM BOLTS used to secure the front disc brake caliper of the Montesa 4RT / 315R to the front fork leg. They will fit other modern trials bikes with no problem. The package consists of following:- M8 x 60 Ti tapered Socket Head Screw, M8 x 35 Ti Socket Head Screw and a M8 Ti Form A flat washer. These all replace the soft rubbish quality standard fitment and MUST be used in conjunction with the FIM standard plastic Disc Guard shouldered washers. If you dont use the guard then these bolts WILL need to be shortened. Use the washer with the short bolt to help secure the plastic cover. Will fit other machines but may need to be shortened, please check clearance inside caliper before you ride. Thanks for looking and thank you for your business. FF " Good Luck

Last time was excellent and I understand it will be run on the same format as before. Well worth the trip.

Dictionaries define 'Guru' as: "A Spiritual Parent, a Teacher, a Guide, a Leader in some field, a Knowledge wizard, a Resource for others, and a Source of all good." 13 post are they all sarcastic ???????? Prehaps you should think about changing you name!!!!!!

Just looked at mine and there is a thread on the left and side of the frame for the swinging arm spindle. No workshop Manuel but have a poster listing all the engine parts and showing where they go (Blagged it from Roy Carey when visiting the workshop back when I was a lad). Did see on flebay that someone has photocopied a poster that looks the same as mine and was selling copies, might be worth a look. Don't know which 200 you have. The rear or forward kickstart engine? That may explain the 2 different frames but I don't know much about the differences. Sorry

Thanks for the info just ordered a hotter plug to try in mine. As I'm no stranger to being an idiot at times what does a hotter plug do differently and would you need to change back to the cooler plug when the weather warms up?

The recommended gearbox oil is ELF HTX740 expensive but very good will cure or dramatically improve any clutch drag or disengagement problems. Mixture is 80-1 on fully synthetic premix (ELF HTX976 if my memory serves me is the recommended) but I've been told by so many dealers and importers in the past that trials bike run much better at about 70-1 on semi synthetic that I would recommend semi all day long. There are lots of discussions and ideas on gearbox oil and the best premix in other threads. Have a search through the history in the Montesa section and you will probably find all the answers you need. 'O' finally always use premium petrol i.e. BP ultimate or Esso optimax.

: Informative with a splash of humour. Made I laugh

Please keep us informed there seams to be a few 07 Repsols out there with starting problems. See we are only one apart I have 574. Just a quick thought 1. Turn the tick over up by 1/4 turn anticlockwise. (I had problems after the first ride out and wash, cured it on cold start) 2. Leave on tick over for a least 30 seconds for the sensors to set before touching the throttle. This advice can direct from Sandifords mechanic so it must have some value :beer