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Is it not held on with springs?
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So did you use air, and slowly tighten using a cross pattern? Replacing rivets with bolts is certainly a place needing Loctite. Worked in a hydraulic shop replacing rivets with rivets (When rebuilding) and it seemed touch and go. Thanks for posting!
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MT280332018
MT280232039
Spring (washer) and bushing. Remember another rider had this issue awhile back. There is no parts breakdown for the `02 so use `03. The latter models had bearings.
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Yes, it is much easier to remove the big items in the frame. Removing the stator allows you not to remove any wiring at all. Just changing the seals and mains is a fairly cheap job if you can do it yourself. Good Luck!
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http://www.custgp.com/downloads.html
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Like I said, go up two sizes on the pilot. If it fixes it, come summer go down one size and see how it is. Funny thing about all the jetting Gurus out there, the pilot jet flows from idle to wide open. If the bike is running, the pilot is flowing.
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Yeah, would not want it to handle like a modern bike, Huh? Just kidding, I`ve had a few tlr`s and they are disappointing at best. For some reason everyone has a soft spot for the little Honda`s.
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The slide goes back in the carb with the cut away toward the filter. Did you remove the cable from the slide? It has to go back together just right or the needle will not stay in place. The pilot jet is a very small brass screw inside the carb body with a flat head screw driver slot. Remove and run a fine wire to clean out. Good luck!
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Personally, the front end does need fixed. I would leave the rear alone until you think it has a problem. A shorter turning bike can be much better to ride than what is considered `best`.
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Go to a site to translate.
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Not too many pieces off a Yz ever fit a Ty. Then again stranger things have happened.
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Well, you went from jetting to engine removal. You could fill in the blanks. I usually drain the oil remove the skid plate. Remove flywheel and stator. If you are doing an engine rebuild, I would remove the clutch basket and the primary gear off the crank. Then I would pull the cylinder and then the motor. Just my two cents.
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Changing the front to a 12 will still leave plenty of power in 1st gear. You should not have to change the chain and is quite cheaper and easier than the rear,
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Great splat, Time to add another tire!
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I would start with a 12t CS sprocket.
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The aluminum one broke. If you have to buy new get the steel one.
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Weight way back, toes on the pegs ankles dropped. He has to learn patience with the throttle. The black tube throttle may help, but it sounds more like it`s in his head. Tire pressure? Higher gear won`t help if he is not good on the clutch.
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You are basically doing a fast roll up. If you get some lift, you would be on your way to what I call mini-splatters. Which is a great technique to get up a ledge without getting stuck on the pan. Since you have the cam, concentrate on more lift. Good job. The zap requires a dedicated full front suspension load into an object. The splatter is key to doing all the crazy ups!!
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Try two steps bigger on the pilot jet.
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A very tidey Ty175 with mono wheels and front suspension.
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After talking about the 300 pipe last week and now this `new` problem, I`ve got the pipe to bypass this and go with a new FMF Spark Arrester I just happened to have lying around. I still plan on fixing the stock pipe, so I can go back if I need too. Optical illusion on the rafter fire by the way.
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Well my middle box broke during the event last sunday. Figured might as well burn it out before welding her back up!
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GAS Gas does not show the reeds # for the Replica (Raga). But it does show the intake manifold is different.
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Yeah, but we can fit your whole van inside ours! Unfortunately we have little choice on diesel vans except the Sprinter and they are crap for maintenance costs.
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If I remember correctly, the rear caliper mount was made for the front caliper. Very simple design using the same front and rear. The `Hebo` caliper was Gas Gas own brand, never liked them from the start.
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