lineaway

You have flooded the cylinder. Probably left the gas on and transported the bike. If it has that much fuel in it you need to dry it out. Take off the tank, remove the front pipe and the spark plug. Try turning it upside down for just a short time to get the fuel out. Be extremely careful as you can start a fire. If you must kick it to move the fluid out, remember to hold the kill button down.

I found a letter from the USA importer yesterday that had the 2002 280 at 65.3 K or 144 lbs.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/43879-2012-st290-leaking-gear-oil/

That`s what I need, including the elbow joint!

All the above comments are good. You need to clean up all potential grounds also.

I thought the problem was fixed by trimming the rubber back past the primary case.

Chris, almost any bike you throw up on a stand can have that much play. Before you tear into it, try to locate the main cause. A lot of times you will just find dry bearings/ or no real cause. Lube it all good and you are good to go. Just don`t do it the night before a trial. I`ve done that and had needle bearings all over the floor!

Clean the carb, it is possible to have a partially plugged pilot or main jet. Also you can over oil an air filter with the same results.

You can pray that it is the top hat and return spring. 10$ in parts and about an hour work. Which requires the clutch basket to be removed. With the shifter not returning, it could be a broken shift shaft assembly. That requires a whole engine tear down.

No problem, I`m waiting for my shop to warm-up to do my son`s forks. I just need some ambition!

We have several large family`s in our club. When I first saw this becoming compulsory to ride, I worried about these riders. First, 5 or six switches is not cheap. Due to the size of these family`s, organization is not always there strong points. I could just see them showing up with no tethers. Myself I can see the tether catching on my knee brace, or on brush when breaking trail. In sections not so much, but just out riding we have a lot of over growth that could make things go wrong. I have not heard of any spare tethers yet, though I`ve heard a few switches have been bad, out of the box.

No the adjusters stay in place. Just remember to loosen the top triple clamp bolts and loosen the top fork nut before removal. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AP-v_c0g0mw

It is much easier to remove them, than to fight the forks. Your forks are the same as the 2001-2003 txt models. The only difference is the fork tube it self is 9/16 of an inch shorter.

The Sherco usually has the lightest clutch pull (At least on the older bikes) so I would compare to see if there is something wrong. Since the bike has six springs you can remove two springs, and is noticeable. I have tried this on a few bikes, but have always put them back due to slippage.

The auto clutch is the problem. At first they seem fine. Once he starts to actually try to ride or compete they are fairly worthless. Get a nice ty 80 and it will last until he is big enough for a full size 80. Trick is to gear it low. 11 cs and 48-54 in the rear. That makes it slow enough that it almost cannot stall by the clutch plus it will make any hill. I also have a friend that just put on a hydraulic clutch on for only 40 dollars. My son started on a Yamaha pw 50, bought a new Beta auto. two ty 8o`s and then to a full size gas gas 80. Once he grows it is fairly easy to lower the foot pegs and put real pegs on the ty80. My son was a large boy and the ty was the best bike ever. This crazy adventure started off when I sold my son`s bike. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=574301

Usually you will find the races look marked. They will have slight dimples from the bearings.

Yes, indoors have always been different. Watching in awe at how talented the top riders can be. Too bad the all day dab came from the same side of the sport.

If you look at the bearing race, it is quite noticeable if the bearing is the problem.

I enjoyed the penny trick. I bought one of these http://www.bikebandi...CFbBFMgod8RwArQ twenty years ago and it`s been less than a minute to have both bearings out ever since.

Just remember just because it is a `new` kit does not mean it is actually the correct specs. Still measure the finger height. If it is a little low, some of the friction pad needs to come off. Our importer here always recommended burning it `in` in fourth gear. (Tire against an obstacle and really abusing the clutch) There is also a video floating around of sanding the friction discs.

This is what you need. http://www.trialscen...-2013-upgrades/

I have not heard of removing the cap again. The right fork the most important thing is you pumped all the air out of the bottom using the rod. You can see this in the Sherco link above.

Chris, the clutch pack has to be with in specs. The main measurement is the finger height. There are many videos on this on the net. The clutch on the pro works fine if it is set up correctly. No change of oil or bleeding will fix this.

I have a friend that has ridden for years using the middle finger. Maybe that will help, being the longest finger. He says it gives him better grip!

If I remember right, at least on the Aprilia the detent bolt also holds a spring that can be sprung when the bolt is removed.