lineaway

The front brake never worked well from new. From a vintage stand point, butchering the front for a lousy ty is the 8 th sin. Problem riders now a days do not understand vintage bike set up. The bikes need to be jetted well, and we ran no idle. With it not having an idle(remember no clutch was used)once the throttle was closed the heavy flywheel kept it chugging along at very slow rpms and only took just a crack of the throttle to start hitting again. With this set up it did not take all that mauch braking to slowly work your way down even the steepest drops. There are several methods to get a brake better, but you need to start off with fresh pads, new cable and a quality lever before anything else.

There is one bearing between the two push rods. The pressure plate goes on the clutch hub only one way. One of the spring towers has a notch and there is a corresponding mark on the pressure plate. All things for a 321 found here. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/

I`ve never cared for torque settings on pinch bolts. But you are better to be too loose than too tight. At the worse the fork tube will move. It is never fun to fix a triple clamp that some gorilla over tightened.

Nice picture for as old as it is. Looks like that answer S/A is holding that thing back from really singing!

Works fine here too.

Trouble with the Gas Gas site is they only show manuals for 2003 and newer.

It takes 650cc. The light gear oil will be fine.

Don`t you just hate it. 5 minute oil change and..........

The needle should be more the middle. What jets are in there? Stock was like 150 and 30. Proper float height is also important.

By the way the T50 is for an 8mm. Can`t remember if it was a 6mm or 8mm.

If a chisel is too easy, if you have to spend money a T-50 torx would stand a better chance removing the drain better than an extractor.

Interesting that at that voltage it does not spin. http://www.gasgas.co...an-96-2000.html

By the way you can go years stored in the original container in a cool, dry place.

I would try to knock it loose with a chisel on the edge.

Don`t tell me you bought a drum!

Shock or Forks? Depending on the shock in question, being mounted other than intended could move the oil to the wrong spot. In other words it might stop working. (Becomes more like a pogo stick.)

Are you running correct tire pressure? 4 and 7. Or Flat? Remember to practice with the wheel turned in either direction. Use foot pressure to regain balance. It takes hours. Might have fun with stopping and restarting the bike from a balanced position.

Off hand I have no solution, but since it runs check the power coming to the fan as a starting point.

Great Looking bike. Too bad he is trying to get the 100 labor hours he paid out of it!

http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Manniko/Manniko-mental.html

Thanks, cool part was Sammy in his Team New Mexico riding gear!

Yes, things have always got lost in translation. The 2.5 is probably right.

There are many things going on during a trials. You have to remind yourself to take it one obstacle at a time, one section at a time. Very easy for the mind to wander to the `thing` down the road you dread instead of what`s right in front of you. Slow down a little and pay attention to every section. (Even the easy ones) The stalling is usually more mechanical than mental. Idle too low, clutch dragging a little more, Rear brake pedal adjusted too high or not enough play. Take the time before the event to make sure the air/idle screws are set right for that day. Each day the weather can effect proper carb set-up just a little. The little points here and there is what separates the guys that always win and the ones that could have. You have to find that point that keeps you sharp. Find that `zone` that you ride the best. I find it best to ride by myself with no distractions. Many riders ride better slow, taking their time and truly finding better lines by watching all the competitors. Good Luck!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PMt6GoKk0Y

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