lineaway

Yes, there is O-rings. But after running with the mounts broke for an extended time they will need some help.

Most likely the mounts for the exhaust are broke/bad or loose. Which brings them out of alignment. Repair the mounts, re-pack the silencer and silicon up where it slides together.

The stock silencer had a plastic tip that came apart easily to re-pack. http://www.haventrialsport.co.uk/index.php?cPath=183_158_162_170

The rubber grommet needs replaced.

Sounds like the switch is connected to the ground wire.

Not knowing what issues he had before the rebuild, it is hard to say about the rod. I`ve seen hundreds of rod failures. Those small specks could be brass shavings. That is what I see at first glance. No matter, it is hard to believe that is a fresh rebuild

So did you have the top off the carb or the float bowl?

You have little small bits on the piston and in the head.( Unless that is just small water particles.) Rub your hand over them to see if is rough. Myself, I would pull of the exhaust just to double check how the piston looks. I`m not trying to ruin your ride tomorrow. Like I stated, hard to give a good opinion on this forum.

This is a used cylinder I just sold on EBAY to a happy guy in France. Yes, It was lightly used. But not new.

Sorry, but I`m not joking. Maybe the quality of the picture is too good. That is why I made the comment of the gray plug before. From where my eyes see it. It looks like those small bits are the rod coming apart, and you should not have so much wear on the new plating already. Just get a second opinion from some one physically looking it over.

Put a new plug in and go from there. Chances are you fouled the plug.

Hate to tell you, but only after 3 hours of riding that cylinder and head should be clean as new. Hard to give advice over the internet, but have someone that knows check it out.

That explains the gray. Have you checked the impeller and fan all working ok? MCMAN, I`ve ran a 5 in all Beta`s since `89.

If it was air- cooled, it would not be an issue. It would be risky to loose a cylinder from a coolant leak. But it should work in a pinch. Good Luck.

The most important thing is the front and back work together. In trials you are trying to find traction. Softer is usually better. If you set the suspension up stiff you will be bouncing off the rocks, not in the intended direction of travel.

Are you a `new trials rider`? Static sag is not really the concern.

Dad of two. The head gasket is off from center, which is blocking proper coolant flow. I would not re-jet until fixed.

Only in the western USA would you find a spark arrestor. Change the plug before anything else.

I`ve bled brakes for years without using the syringe. (I have several, but usually don`t bother.) I use a 3 ft long clear hose straight out the nipple over the fender into a container to catch it. The 18inch rise over the fender seems to help draw the air out of the system. In fact I did two Sherco`s this way just yesterday. Just trying to give another way for this young man to get the job done! You just have to keep on eye on the reservoir from going dry and closing the nipple and pumping to check pressure after air escapes. That is why you must use clear hose. Good Luck.

Trials suspension is soft so you can maintain traction. You would have to be over 250 lbs to need 10wt and then you would need to do something with the rear spring. Here is the right fork. The left is similar, just remove the spring for proper measurement. http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/Sherco_Fork_Oil_Change.pdf

You have to have the forks off to correctly set the levels. You are right about the drain screws, but if you want the forks to work properly they need to be drained, flushed, and pumped of all air to be set correctly.

Beta Techno`s also ran the Paoli`s from `96-`99. Straight out of the Paoli service manual. 360cc per leg, both 5wt. That is with a complete rebuild.(dry) Measurements were with the forks collapsed no spring. Left fork air gap 125mm and 70mm on the right.

It`s just removing the forks. Remember to loosen the top triple clamp first and then loosen the top fork caps before you remove them. Make sure the forks are drained completely. It is good also to flush them to get all the crud out. The hard part is to get the correct amount back in. There was another post about this I`ll try to find for you.

So was the master leaking or did you try to bleed it?

I`d leave the 30 at least during the winter months. But I would fix the head gasket while still new. The coolant flow will be wrong. The holes are smaller in places