lineaway

You really need a tach on the 301. I will let mine idle until it reaches above 2000 rpm. If you run the idle low it will run terrible. Follow the above video and reset the ECU. I went through that same issue. You just have to get used to this is a high idle bike. Always when starting, never touch the throttle and let the bike idle for awhile without blipping the throttle. I mean EVERY TIME. Once cold almost a minute, when hot at least 20-30 seconds.

It's a trials bike ment to go slow. Road speed does NOT cool it down. The fan will run most of the time, exempt in winter. What year is your bike? I luve my 301.

Not really, as the tire will spin and ruin the tube. Fix it correctly. A new tire can't hurt.

Jimmy Z rode our last event on his new 301 Montesa and had quite a fun day. The 301 is the only 4 stroke that does not have alot of engine brake Good luck figuring out what you want to do I gave up on the vintage, but I do love it!

I have lots of years riding vintage as I started riding in 1972. The TLR beauty queens are very tempting to own, But at the end of the day they are not a true trials bike. If you actually have a real TLR and not the reflex model they are barely a little better. All our vintage events seem to be dominated by ty 175`s or tricked out TLR200`s. Neither of which were competitive back in the day. I would go back to riding the Sherpa T. I have a good friend that bounces back and forth between his Honda and the Bul. He wants to ride the Honda, but it is very limited in the real sections. I actually loved a Montesa 200 for vintage, but got tired of keeping it running. Good luck.

On my grandsons beta sr 80 the front brakes were too grabby and he had short legs, so was crashing to much. I used brake pads that had been ruined by a fork seal leak. That solved his problems. And the pads seemed to get better as time went on.

You need a clam shell bearing tool with a puller to remove it. Or the old fashaioned way of breaking the bearing off and cutting off the remaining race.

Some times its better to say nothing. Sherco went to a diaphram clutch in 2017. The 2017 owners manual had the 2016 info. Originally the oil volume was 450 ml. Later on they corrected it to 700ml. It was a crap shoot if you ever got the right info.

Yeah, during the pandemic or whatever caused Sherco to drop all the original dealers worldwide, or so it seems. Not much info left before that. They had plenty of parts diagrams, but not much real info. You are searching for something that really had no real info. My son a a new 2012 and the owners manual was pretty worthless. Our importer RYP was great, but Sherco themselves worthless. Most spanish bikes were that way.

2017 is the year they went to the new clutch? Even Sherco was confused about quantity. Hopefully someone that has one responds.

This has been going on a long time. Try it without the gas cap. And if you can a pic of the routing of the vent tubes on the carb.

Starting with the 2011 model, the txt's went to a wider frame at the foot peg area, which gave it better handling. I recently bought a 2011 for my grandson for this very reason.

Correct none of my bikes thermo's failed. I was a dealer for all the brands for over a decade. So of course I have seen lots of failures. The Fantic I refered to had its own strange thermo in the head itself. No replacement that I was ever told about. But I have seen alot of thermos bypassed with no issues. Thesaint has a bike that runs fine just by passed. You act like it will self destruct. Lol Big deal, just ride it!

Since we live in New Mexico. The sun is usually fully on, no switch. Which means our fans are probably on 90 % of the time. Not really an issue at all. Besides we have low humidity which means no corrosion too. Next your going to tell me not to drive at night cuz it is hard on the alternator!

Trouble with a switch, people forget about it. Seen a Champ rider remember right in the middle of a section when his bike over heated. We also have an old vac truck at work and everbody forgets to flip the switch after its started. Humans always make silly I forgots all the time. My wife's friend has sunk her ski boat about 13 times! What plug?!? You guys must have bad luck to be so worried about such a simple thing. I have replaced one fan in all my years, in my own bikes. Which I have had over 100. I have never needed any electric part besides points, condensor, plug and cap. Now I have had to replace other peoples stuff. Most of the time it was self induced.

Trouble with a switch, people forget about it. Seen a Champ rider remember right in the middle of a section when his bike over heated. We also have an old vac truck at work and everbody forgets to flip the switch after its started. Humans always make silly I forgots all the time. My wife's friend has sunk her ski boat about 13 times! What plug?!?

I would not worry about it. Just let the bike warm up good before you ride. In 1995 ALL the new fantics had junk thermostats that there was no better replacements. All the dealers wired them to full run. Never heard of a single problem. I have had to wire many a trials bike to vet it through a weekend event. I dought many a person actually fixed the thermo after that.

Well you thought it did! Too, bad as with a bike that old it could be time to replace the main bearings and seals. A quick check would be to remove the mag cover and tug on the flywheel to see if you have any up and down play in it.

The only Rieger worth trying would be the large body one on the trs gold. But I bet it weighs the same as the Showa.

That would be counter clockwise. How long have you owned the bike? What elevation? Is it well used? Did you change the plug. You have oil. The list can be long.

From fully seated is not the starting point. 3/4 to 1 turn out from where it quit working is what I would try.

A photo would help. It should not be pointed down. Just above level is the normal position.

Canceled. I hope M.M. is o.k.

Are you mad? You are not supposed to have a trials during the summer in A.Z.!

9.75 mm and finger height 17mm.