ross brown

Sorry i thought we were talking 4RTs here. The Elf oil replacement under discussion goes into a single chamber that houses both the clutch AND gearbox/ transmission. The other oil, the one in the 10w-30 or 5w-40 range is for the engine oil that circulates in the forward chamber .and lubricates crank, cam chain, valves and so on.

Trailer wheels need the orange powder coat treatment as a finishing touch.

And your second mistake will be to throw a leg over a new, light weight, fuel injected modern. It will do you head-in in the nicest possible of ways. After a 30 year hiatus, I THOUGHT a twinshock was what i needed. So my advice, for what its worth is : 1) Keep the Cota, AND buy a new COTA. No ifs or buts. You need a modern as well.

"What Mags said" Adjuster is ahead of the snail cam in the pic above and is screwed into the hole furtherest back along the swim arm; thereby taking up the slack in a 'long' chain.

Hi BillytVery enigmatic reply there when it came to naming the oil you use in your 2014. Am I missing something here ( political reason not to name the oil). Have just added a newer Mont to my own stable and couldn't find Elf locally. Have been using Silkolene SRG Pro 75 in previous Mont and some who rode it thought the clutch too much like a switch. On or off. Suited me. But a new relationship is cause for a re-think of one's old ways. Across various oil threads there are posters who say 'why not just use what the manual recommends' . The first reason, pointed out by quite a few others but which seems to be regularly forgotten is that ELF is not available everywhere, and it is frowned upon to try and post containers of oil through the mail overseas (men in sharp black suits and mirrored sunglasses will soon start to take an interest in your activities). TC has grown to become a global forum- thank you Andy. I for one cherish these technical discussions about how to solve problems and to improve upon what we have in our garage. So thank you Shyted for kicking off an oil thread that has resulted in cascading new knowledge. I'm loath to start chopping and changing oils as any residue on the plates will affect the 'new' oil's performance. Much better in my mind to change an oil and stick with it through several cycles of change. So keen to see where this thread leads to.

Nothing wrong with your Mark 1 calibrated eyeball. The lanyard kill switch was impossible to spot. Next mod is to make another 'grabber' out of old tie-downs as on the '07. Probably one of the more useful 4RT additions. I don't understand why grab handles - or finger holds - are not built into the shape of the air box or exhaust mounts. Quite a few Enduro bikes have these now, especially KTM.

A second-hand 2014, just followed me home to join the stable and to replace the much loved 2007. So before its sold here are the two side by side. First impressions: Weighs the same loading it onto a trailer. Damn. There's probably a kilo of over-enigneered plastic clips and mounting hardware - the gas cap breather hose for instance has 3 'rubber' hoses, a hard plastic fume gatherer, and a right angle plastic joining piece. A complex solution to a simple problem. Once underway, the front really does feel much lighter and easier to loft over a log. Found that I can turn tighter, more easily. More like a Beta. But I think that's because I've come from an '07 and the geometry there is a long way back in time. Bark is deeper, mid-range grunt is there for the asking. Feels a very grown-up bike. What I imagine a date with Emily Blunt would be like. You'd feel privileged and having to be on your best behaviour. Fabulous company? Yes of course. Better than you? Certainly. Take you places you've never been? Quite possibly. Wild and out of control? Not in its nature. Perfect to take home to mother.

Search the Montesa forum for gearing. There's some really good intel in there. Personally i found going to a 44 tooth rear and keeping the standard 10 tooth on the front was the right fit for me as it slowed the bike down and I could do ever so tight first gear corners. On obstacles now find i ride one gear higher .making 2nd and 3rd magic. Others have gone down a tooth on countershaft sprocket AND up on rear. My preference on lanyard is on the left. Pulling in the clutch can save you many times. If clutch hand is off the bars, then its all Over Rover.

When i look at my dog sleeping on the driveway and think i'd have to double-blip to get over that.

Spoken like someone who has said to himself on more than one occasion, "How on Earth is that going to come out?".

Ahh, Stay younger. Jump on a modern! When I had a TL250 I hated the weight and wished I could have found a TLR200. Then I bought a modern 125 for my son. LIGHT feels RIGHT.

Yes. Wonder no more. Details can be found using SEARCH.. Seriously, your other post says you have been riding an XR80. A lot has moved on since the '80s, try and get a ride on a bike thats less than 5 years old sometime soon as that could really change your mind about what is light and fun to ride.

Sorry, it seems your dogs can't bare to face it? Trying to tell you something?

There are a few threads and a lot of content on this subject in this and the gas gas forum. Search and yee shall find. My own experience is the 125 will be right size for a 13 year old. Potentially too bug for an 11 year old without any prior motorcycle time. Also, give them a wide open paddock and nobody behind them so they dont pressure first time out. Cheers. Ross

Yes but.... Surfers at pro level look good. Great bodies. Fabulous sunny locations. Blue water, white sand. The power of nature on display. All in all an Aspirational show for teens and adults to watch. Speed also a factor. Also rules very simple to understand by general public. No compare with our sport.

I replaced the upper bearing on my '07 4Rt last month. So nipped downstairs to check for you. I took original bearing ( Nachi brand) into a bearing shop. They had right size in two different brands. Played it safe and went for the genuine replacement. Bearing is Nachi taper roller 32005JS/26.I dont see there being any change between 07 and '12. As above posters say. Its a 32005. Suffix JS. 26mm. Cost equivalent to £18. Other thing to note, was after a year of use and washing etc, all the grease had migrated to the lowest point. So bottom bearing race was in good shape but my top race wS showing signs of wear and tear with a hint of rust. Note to self, double the grease on top bearing next time.

Most people are right-handed so this gives us a stronger grip on that side, plus you can throw your body weight onto an object to stay upright. Having said that, 'I dress to the left.'

I wanted a black guard and settled on one of those flexible Top Trial Team rear guard conversions as seen on ebay for about £ 40. On its 5th outing my 'unbreakable' rear mudguard snapped. Having cut up a perfectly good guard to fit this I am disappointed to say the least. Didn't even come off, just got my wait back too far going over a log, legs mad the guard flex, the tip of the guard touched the tire and suddenly I have a 2 piece mudguard. Don't ask me to recommend them!

Just gone and checked my manual for you. Montesa 4RT manual quotes set idle speed to '1800 rpm. Plus or minus 100 rpm'. Its obvious when standing around 4RTs how they run at a higher idle than other 4 strokes. And Great fun listening to a Honda TLR twinshock while following it down a hill ticking over at 800 - 900 rpm. Whereas my 4RT is running at twice that, fan going, and clutch in to get slow enough and not go up its rear. Of course the 30 year leap in tech means the brakes actually stop me rather than just retard the downhill journey and fuel injection gives it a no-lag throttle response. I tried turning down my idle but found that the bike stalled too easily, especially when opening the throttle after a period of very low revs ( eg after getting to the bottom of a steep hill and then opening the throttle to climb up the otherside). As to the fan, when starting the day, my routine is to let the bike idle until the fan kicks in; a lengthy period of about 3 minutes during which time the 4RT comes up to operating temp. Jumping on and riding away before this rewards with clutch slip. In a forest, with little airflow and riding slowly I'm conscious the fan can be running continuously. Never had a problem with that. It is doing its job. Just one owners experience. Also have a look at an Ossa 280. The fan is not out in front as the petrol tank sits there. Fan sits out of the airflow compared to traditional thinking on its placement. Fan runs, bike stays cool; doing good honest work.

Loving 10/44. The 44 on the rear slows it all down and makes 2nd gear magic in the slippery stuff.

Last Sunday, we had the first real rain of winter here (Southern Hemisphere). 2 4RTs and an Ossa out practising "S" turns on steep slippery farm hill sides. My '07 4RT has a 44-tooth rear sprocket. The '09 Repsol also was also using a 44 sprocket. My rule of thumb is 'if it is slippery, then never select 1st' as I will spin the wheel and lose traction. However, I suspect this is a rider induced weight too far forward issue, rather than anything intrinsically poor about the 4RT. Just watch how far back Fujigas and Tony B get their bums (actually siting/touching the rear guard) sometimes. Anyway, last Sunday on these slippery slopes I was in second gear clutching during the turns while the Repsol was in 1st with little or no clutch. It's all about the rider! For me, 2nd gear with clutch is magic (clutch only at near-standstill pace at the apex of the turn while I got my weight back and down, elbow up, and weight moved to the outside peg). 3rd gear is for wonderful to-die-for traction without spinning on long hill climbs. Now this is one 4RT owner's generalisation, but compared to our smooth OOssaa riding friend, I'd say the 4RT's (with 44 teeth at the rear) are being ridden a gear lower than the 2Ts ie. second gear on the 4Rt where the Os280 would be in 3rd. Picture below is proof-positive that I'm not getting my weight back far enough or low enough. No traction marks at all on the seat. Just mud where there should be skid marks!

I put a Dave Cooper rack on my 2005 crv. DC's 4WD rack turns the bike wheel out so that it clears the external spare wheel of the CRV. This works fine but I chose to remove the spare wheel cover everytime i carried the bike to prevent paint damage to the cover. With the cover removed you can then loop an extra tie-down through the wheel hub to hold the bike tighter up high at steering head level. Only one issue, my towbar had a sticker stating 50kg vertical weight limit. Honda Accord had 75kg limit. Go figure.

For Sale: My much loved Trail bike is now for sale. GasGas TXT Pro. 280 Raced constantly. Never garaged. Maintained using only an adjustable crescent. As seen on YouTube "how to Jap Zap in Dorset". M25 record holder. No time wasters. Serious offers only please.

Looks identical to the Jitsie DB killer i have on my '07 4RT. But with a new mounting bracket. Search db killer in this forum and on the web for more info. I swear by mine. Don't notice any power drop off but do notice the quieter footprint. If it means i can ride more then im all for it.

Had the same issue myself. I ended up not being able to use the first set of snails I purchased because of their thickness not working with the standard 4RT axle (greater than standard thickness meant less thread available for the nut to hold onto). I bought snails from V-mar instead that are recessed to suit the 4RT axle and shaped to hold the axle end and stop it rotating. http://www.vmar.com/snail.html FYI I'm Not connected to Vmar in anyway, just a happy customer; which is way better than being an annoyed customer having bought a set of snails, paid to have them posted to me half way around the world, only to find they don't fit!