AlexR
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Posts
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Last visited
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ready to send this garbage back to Spain! TRS service sucks so far.
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Thanks for your reply. I suspect my gear is not centered properly to the drum, could be a defect in the star shift drum.
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Huski - that was my first thought but I thought it might be best to ask around before doing that. Thanks.
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Thanks so much. I have actually watched this video and tried all the tricks including washers under the spring but nothing yet. I was hoping the new 2018 shift mechanism would fit too ; )
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I am new to this forum and this was the closest I could see to my issues ; ) Wondering if al_orange figured it out as sounds similar to mine.
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Thanks for the response. I juts bought the bike and its a 2017 with 50 hrs on it and the previous owner only rode it a few times. The shift mechanism is low and does not his case or sprocket. I have tried shifting with and without clutch, tried different oils and ripped apart internal shift mechanism as per the manual and Jim Snells fix videos. The internal shift stop bar appears to prevent the mechanism from moving enough to go from neutral to 2nd but there is no way to adjust that on this bike.
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I just bought a 2017 TRS RR that has 50 hrs and is mint condition. The problem is that it will not shift into 2nd without pounding on the shifter and even then it only shift once in a while. If I am lucky enough to get it into 2nd then the gears from there up work fine and shifting down is not an issue. I have watched the Jim Snell videos and taken the shift mechanisms apart a few times. All the parts are in perfect shape but it appears the shift selector is hitting the shift shaft stop screw. There is now way to adjust this and it is not oval as on some other bikes. Any suggestions?
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Are we still up for the cable? Just let me know what I owe you and I can send an e transfer.
Thanks,
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Yes, I have gotten it in, so just need to build it and get you a price.
I’ve been pretty busy with bike work and other stuff, but should be pretty soon.
My email is:
markh@olympus.net
best way to contact me, since I just now saw this!
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Excellent! Thanks you so much.
Take care,
Alex
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Yes, I’ve just been super busy with bikes and grandkids...
I’ll try to start working on one tomorrow.
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Hello, I noticed you responded to a post regarding a smoky Osssa. In this post, you mentioned that a diagram was a later year with a race type LH bearing and that the oil feed holes on those models were blocked off. I have a 2015 280 that started smoking intermittently after I repaired the gear box. I assumed it was the LH seals but your post makes think otherwise...do you know if the LH seals would cause smokiness (intermittent) in a 2015 280?
Thanks,
Alex
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Thanks Peter! I am in Canada. Another member was kind enough to give me software and was initially going to make me a cable but he has not followed up and it sounded like a lot of work for him. Do you know where I can get a cable?
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The intermittent is strange...I thought maybe it just takes time to build up in the crankcase???
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Hi Alex, would you be ok to email me, I find the message service quickly fills up on TC and I have to delete a few things to allow more entries. Pls try me on peterboettchernz@yahoo.co.nz
If you were in NZ I would offer to reset your software and there is a straight forward tune to lean or richen the mixture over the rev range.
Due to the backward facing cylinder, there is a step at the base of the crankcase mouth where 2T oil builds up with use. When starting from cold, this oily residue mixes with the combustion fuel/air until it is all burned off, then after use again, the build up returns. Is this what you are seeing? Very rich from cold for a long time? Bye, Peter.
Just remembered, there is another Ossa rider in Canada who has a cable set, will see if I can think of who it is. What city are you close to?
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Oh wow, I never knew about this. Where can I get cables and software?
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I do have a new problem...it has a bit of a low throttle bog and there seems to be some splooge coming out of the exhaust like its running rich...how do you adjust that on an Ossa? It also seems a bit smokey for a 100:1 mixture.
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Yes Ossa2011. You hit the nail on the head...I was putting the fingers in the wrong spot ; / Thanks so much for your advice. Alex
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Thanks for your reply Lineaway but I did make sure the cassette was flush and the primary gear on the crank lines up with the clutch gear.
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I have a Tr300 that I just replaced the shift drum for and now I am having problems getting the engine back together. I have tried literally everything but the clutch fingers keep binding against the inside of the clutch cover and the kickstart will not engage or at least due to the engine being locked up. I have taken it apart and put back together about 20 times now and the main gear of the clutch is always flush against the primary gear on the crankshaft so I know that is not the issue. The tranission is also seated tightly against the engine and the secondary gear is at the right distance. I assembled my transmission drum based on this video but also noticed that the video shows two positions for installing the drum...the first is with the tab on the 1st gear slot (during removal) and the second (installation) is with the tab on the neutral position. I have tried both. Help! This is the video I watched to install shift drum.