Strutty

they have different CDI and exhaust back box (without loops) which creates different timing and different back pressure you'll spend tonnes of money making it UK spec, the EUs are lovely and sought after leave it be

wear a thin ankle brace they fit well inside the boots

when mine was pumping black smoke on full chat before steps it was the side diaphragm being dirty . have you tried cleaning all the jets and gently cleaning both diaphragms?

they run the same crank, can just do barrel and piston swap , find a good second hand barrel and crack on

second the water / coolant getting on the clutch. hadnt seen the rust coolant/water in the plates even just over night swells the plates up a treat....

id check the pack thickness is in spec and bleed the clutch fluid making sure theres no crushes or nicks in the cable. Being a 22 unless its had a hard life it should be fine 1 is the most progressive and lightest option yes, does the pack move freely in the basket if it gets caught up on burs it'll make the action very quirky. also, clean off all the debris in the casings and plates as this can make it heavier and less precise. id check the seals and piston in the master cylinder personally if it was good before but gotten heavy Is it your first bike and what cc is it? you have to be fairly switched on and have a lot of clutch control on a 300

I think its the air mixture screw which is normally between 1 - 1.5 turns my idle screw was set afterward to a comfortable level just above stalling, certainly isn't screwed that far in

the CDI hasnt changed between 21 & 22 and its the same as the TRS. i suspect its a rectifier thats causing your issues not regulating the current to the CDI or a bad wire in the loom between CDI and stator. its normal to maybe have 1 go but certainly not 1 every 2 months. my current CDI is nearly 3 years old...

if the pack is ok condition, id probably put a thicker steel plate/(s) in to pack the thickness out if the packs below thickness its never going to be brilliant, alternatively could run a thicker spring ring, but this will make the clutch heavier. Ive found finger height to be more important on a gasser than the pack thickness but everyone has their own experiences

check you havent pinched the vacuum hoses putting the back end and airbox back on

thats a oval frame chrome gasser ended 2008. believe they did a 200cc (was actually 167cc) until about 2005 id put a guess on at 2005 200, it will say on the chassis sticker id check rear mudguard availability before buying. also looks like the airbox is either broken or missing bolts . engines are good bottom end of the engine is still almost identical on the new 2023.

yes thats fine

Use 97/99 premium because of the lower ethanol rate. on all of those you will probably be fine at 95 octane. I had my gasser up to 11:1 without running any octane adjuster on 99 esso If youre after exact numbers i can do some calculations tonight

presume you have checked the casing for cracks from an impact or over-tightening? Also, check the bolt lengths are in the correct holes as some are a fair bit longer.

theres a switch by the headstock on the outside, one side is your map switch for dry/wet one side is your light switch , they will be a white/red/black piece of plastic in the arc of the frame brace each side. lights are normally on the left.