marky boy

They also have minimum weights in push bikes, as a way to try and avoid super light bikes that could be brittle. What happens is that the pros have to fit small weights or steel bottle cages to get the weight up to the minimum as they are all so light!! Maybe with the FIM ,it is a similar thing of budget control also ??

Ross, anything can be made to fit anything

Wow, good project , i love it well done. On the wheel side. When you get real into it you are actually spoilt for choice. You can get 'fat' rims and tyres up to a 5" and also 'half fat' rims and tyres. These are all 36 hole also, and would build into the hubs I am running 4" on one of my fat mtb's, you run real low pressure and would be ideal as a trials rim. Maybe a little wide for the front. 1237841_524285550971032_54476353_n

Depends what you need...... www.handdracing.co.uk

Not that many changes ;-)

It will fit the fork, but the pre drilled holes are different. But just offer up your fork bracket and redrill and rivet. I supplied a customer with a black Ossa front M/guard which worked on his 315 but again was to drill to the right mounts

Not true. Was true of some of the old plastic tanks. Think Montesa 315, all plastic tanks, not know for bubbling!! I have a 2000 scorpa sy with the silver tank, 13 years old and not a blemish on it. (i also did some 1970's RM motocross tanks 6 or 7 years ago and they are still ok too) Your paint on the tank has more than likely lifted as the primer or undercoat had not fully 'gone off' or there was a reaction/mismatch in the paint. I have painted more plastic panels and tanks than i can care to remember and the only real trick is simply to do it properly. The ideal world is to use plastic primers and adhesion promotors and the a plasticiser addative into the top coat. But to be honest you will make nearly as good a job with rattle can plastic bumper paint such as the UPOL stuff, as this gives you adhesion promotors and plastic primers designed to keep the paint hanging onto plastic car bumpers!! Certainly if you dont get all the paint off then you will need a good sealer. A good one to use if you do not want to deal with 2K is called "barcoat" and is alcohol based and you can pretty much seal all sorts of edges and problems in with it. As above poster says, nitromors should be fine just dont leave it on for too long. Never needed to drop or change or do owt with the fuel in the tanks, there is still fuel in the scorpa tank and i dont think it has moved for 5 years or so. (the carb is full of fuel jelly mind) Get stuck in and good luck

So that is where a good powder coater comes in, and not a firm the does gutters and gates etc and billy bob will do you a job for 4 tins of beer!! You get rid of the gas BEFORE you coat it. Done hundreds of magnesium wheels and engine cases. Piece of Piddle :-) Fuel tanks no problem, as they are heated the remaining gases simply evaporate. Done old bike tanks and rally car tanks....Simples. Find a good local powder coater (by reputation if poss) and pic their brains and see what they come up with.Anyone who quotes you around £50, walk away!! Good luck

Epoxy Epoxy-polyester polyester There are also various types of nylon coatings The 'pukka' powder to be used is pure polyester, as is chemical and uv resistance etc.. The cheap stuff is epoxy and is not even lightfast, usually trolleys and things like that are done in this and reds turn white after a year of being outside.I reckon this is what your men are using, it is almost half the cost of decent brand polyester. That is another factor, decent powder from decent brands performs so much better than cheap powders, especially the eastern europe stuff that seems to be flooding the market. It is a bit like your cheap 2k basecoats, they can require 6 or 7 coats to cover but cost a fraction of ppg or standox etc. the trade off being that the best quality basecoats cover almost instantly, the same is to be said for powders! Before chemical stripper, we too used to dip in petrol and found the same results as you, the cheap stuff falls off like aerosol. Even with serious industrial powder stripper some primers (which incidently some are epoxy so go figure) will not budge. I would presume that your local powder coater's bread and butter is more non technical industrial coat it in owt to be competetive on price type jobs? And.....then there is the preperation......

I have been trying to defend powder coating for nearly 20 years, and the same old codswollop comes up. People go on forums saying how rubbish it is, when in practice they either don't have a clue or have a had a bad experience, which nine times out of ten comes down to their own personal pursuit for a cheap job out of the back door! Your comments, and other like them can actually affect and damage peoples business, may seem petty but it is true. Somebody who reads that post may have had a massive project that they were going to have powdered at their local business, but instead decide to go elswhere to another type of business as they read it is not suitable for alloy type tubes. It could of been an MD of a large company who had a multi thousand pound job, who upon reading your post could of changed his mind etc etc... Yours was a statement of fact, rather than a 'i think it might of knackered them, or the local company did'. You stated that it could damage the forks when heated up, which i proffesionally consider to be bull****. Not sure what your Beta was coated in, or have any experience but the top drawer polyester powder coat can be left in petrol with no ill effects as coroilis says in his experience. But there is no beef, and i will next time use more decency, if you are decent and polite enough to spell much better But to be much more helpfull, there are 3 main commonly used types of powder coat

What a load of bull****!!! The heat cannot and will not make airpockets and crack your forks! 2 pack top coat is not more hard wearing and easier to touch up! Bmw bonnets and other panels are now powder coated clear! To have them powder coated by a monkey, or just a basic idiot then yes owt could happen, but the same can be said by taking them to a bodyshop that is used to painting the full side off a car and getting them to make a job of something techincal that cannot be done on the fan jet!! If you want to have them powder coated then if they 'are done properly' would be much longer lasting, hard wearing and easy to touch up then yes you would have to strip the forks 100%. If you want to get them painted, then you just need to mask off the parts that you do not want coated. But by taking this option you are limited by how high a temperature you can stove the paint due to the internals etc. You not only get what you pay for , but also get the rewards of people with experience in true race industry coating, and not here and there trade!!

And with nipple clamps on , and i'll chuck some money in the charity pot!! Never did quite pluck up the courage to have a go myself so very Good luck!!

That or buy a twinshock and ride the easy course pretending it is a much harder bike to ride like a load of the experts nowadays

Also

As a good friend of mine says, tight's tight and bust's buggered

We have plain white

Just a note to say that we have run castrol 747 at 80-1 for over ten years, never a single problem

Please read my original post ...slowly and carefully. 'I' do not refer to the bike as 'unproven' but refer to the fact that the great 'all' usually quickly jump in and state any new bike coming out gets that statement thrown at it. As stated above, this project will be made to work. Good for you Kinell i know you did ;-) , i did the same with the Scorpa sy had one of the first in the uk...no problems great bike. Then with the 4rt, got one of the first batch of ten into the UK, the rest they say is.....

I think the phrase 'unproven' has been wheeled out a lot over the years, with lots of different brands. It has been said more than once that long standing current bikes that are 'proven' still have many issues..no?

To play devils advocate for a minute, out of curiousity what vehicle do you drive?

Actually read---MOST powder coaters and platers are not good at getting in the seams, not the product but the application

I seem to recall finding an excellent match with an old Honda car colour.It also depends which red are there are different ones,as you say get it chipped up but go to your local paint motor factors as they can mix anything into aerosols now. Also it will be quality paint and not overpriced cheap stuff

Both are Mitani titanium systems, but yes the end of the can is in alloy

Depends which one you mean as my post was hijacked The one that i posted pics of was an 2006 repsol 280, and really miss it now and wish that i had never sold it on..

Is that each class won by an expert