clav3

Hi Neo I'm from Brisbane and having the exact problem with the PWK on my 290. Carby perfectly clean, neadle and seat looks brand new, checked engine and manifold for air leaks, installed a new pilot jet and reeds, cleaned tank, fuel tap, air filter, breather hoses, tryed different fuel, made sure tank was venting. I have been running, for about a year, wet or dry, hot or cold, a 42 pilot jjj needle second clip from bottom jitsie aie screw 1 1/4 turns out and have been turning back in 1/3 turn for shaily hillclimbs. Now just to get it to idle 45 pilot, Air 1/4 out, and jjh needle (next richer) second clip from bottom. This is a big change all of a sudden and still slightly hunts on idle. It also runs richer when pointing downhill and leaner pointing uphill which makes me think there might be an air leak in the carb. It has gone lean before to the extent of turning the air screw in a full turn to get it to idle and normally just clean out the carby and its fine. Brett from Motocentral suggested a worn piston may cause hunting for fuel at idle. Yesterday I put the Dellorto back on to rule out an air leak or piston problem. 33 pilot 3 3/4 turns out and standard needle on bottom clip. The standard config when the bike was new was too lean and had engine ping in the mids. The bike runs perfectly! And a bonus, now the mapping switch now gives two very distingtive and usable modes. (I know what you're thinking Cope) So it seems there is a problem with the keihin. The is two non tamper screws holding the center of the carby in place with an o ring in there that I'm told is non serviceable because nobody has ever had to. I've bought a bit for these screws but finding it hard to bring myself to take it apart fearing I might on the wrong track and stuff the craby for good. Neo I'm a crap typer. Thats why I don't post many times. If you want to email me your phone number emty1@optusnet.com.au I can understand if you dont want to.

I've had the exact problem on my 2008 290 and have made the clutch alot more progressive using 15w50 synthetic oil. This has also completely eliminated the clutch lockup when not run for a week or two problem. Never been any sign of slipping when fully realesed.

I,ve used Shell Advance 15W-50 for a few months to help stop clutch grab and shudder when slipping the clutch alot in tight shaily sections and since this change have never had the clutch stick when starting. Also never had the clutch slip in high revs when fully engaged.

Just wondering about the 301 kit borus - how much and where to get one? The dealer here in Aus knows nothing about them from the factory.

If you want guaranteed better braking no matter what pads you have , without noise, put a gas gas disc on. I stole my sons off his GG 50 and he isn't getting it back. It's non floating but I believe the 09 sherco has the floating type. I'm thinking of stealing his rear disc as well. I just put new galfers on the back after a set of SBS and I'm disappointed, but I think they are better in the wet and like you cope there's not much mud here either. Does anyone know of a really good grabby brake pad.

I

I've just tried my sons non floating gas gas front disc off his 50 cc ( same hub). Every gaser I've ridden has had better brakes than both the sherco's I've owned. Brakes now are heaps stronger with no squeal. The 09 sherco looks like it has the same discs as gas gas.

I found out some interesting things when testing the 07 Caby setup, 45 pilot #4 slide, JFH needle clip second from top, 115 main. (122 too rich) I also have Cab head fitted from new and had decided to go with the Boysens strait after run in and they where great, but after about six months the bike seemed to be consistently running rich. I started changing pilots and needles trying to make the idle richer and the transition into the mids leaner. I

I've also had a leaky cap on my 08. The white sticker now has yellow edges. I might try to get one on warranty. I think the old gasket has stretched. I've bought a new factory gasket and the inner diameter is smaller than the old. Every time you tighten the cap the gasket stretches. I haven't used the new one yet because while waiting for it to arrive I put a thick rubber o ring on the recess of the cap and the old gasket sit snuggly against it. It's sealed perfectly for a couple of months now. Hopefully it'll stay that way.

Below is an email from Ryan Young. I've changed my fork oil on an 08 and it's perfect. Just make sure you get all the oil out of the cartrige side to get all the fresh oil in, and it didn't take 20 minutes, at most 5. There is a pdf file on Ryans' Sherco site containing this info, along with the other service files. The Ceriani forks are identical to the old Paioli except for the outer fork legs. Oil level on right leg: 60mm With forks at bottom Oil level on left leg: 110mm With forks at bottom and without spring Should be 370cc in right and 385cc in left.when doing this use the oil height measurements taken from the top of the forks with the forks at the bottom of there stroke and with the spring removed. The oil quantities are correct. The levels are correct. The problem is getting all the oil out of the fork on the cartridge side. You have to pump it for 20 minutes. Then when you put oil back in, pump for 20 minutes again, to get all the air out of the cartridge to verify level.

Call me mad, but I've drilled jets with guitar strings. i.e 48 gauge E string (0.048 inch) converts to 1.22mm (122 main jet) or 16 gauge string (0.016 inch) converts to 0.406 mm (40.6 pilot).

You

cope, you've probably read some of my previous posts (not many) about the jetting on my old 2000 being alot richer than my 2008. Look at borus's FACTORY setup. #4 slide and 45 pilot. The needle has the H diameter, J taper angle, F length before the taper starts but the needle is dropped all the way down another two clip positions from middle. This setup would be quite different from the setup you used on the 07. As soon as I've changed the slide I have to adjust the air or change the pilot to get nice smooth response just as the throttle opens. I can easily run a 38 pilot at about 1 3/4 turns out and it gives me the same performance. Tell me if I'm wrong but all the circuits overlap, so if I want to run a bit richer in the mid I still have some adjustment on the air screw with a 35 pilot at 1/2 turn out. Alot of people talk about Keihins giving them more power but all it is is a bit more fuel delivered in the right place. You can do the same with a Dellorto but the three levels of adjustment on the needle in the Keihin mean the lower to upper midrange can be tailored to suit. This is what I love about the Keihin. You can literally have a bike for every day of the week. Some would say why bother,and thats up to them, but I say why not. I,ve tried the exact setup that you've described except for a 120 main and I found the bottom too rich for slow floating turns, the mids were weak and pinged alot and wot was rich and much stronger with a 115 main. In saying this I'ld also like to add that my 2008 has a cab head (which doesn't make a massive difference) and the engine (going by the parts book only) would be similar to the 07 cabby. I,ve had nothing to do with any other Sherco's but both the 2000 or 2008 pinged alot when using the middle clip on the needle, exept the LJH on the 08, which still pings just a little. We have a good range and quality of fuel down here, 91, 95 , 98 octane so between the two bikes, pinging can only be put down to carb setup. Even the 08 factory setup pinged in the mids. I'ld like to know how you setup your air screw. I set the idle then turn out air until engine just starts to hunt then back in about 1/4 turn to hear a nice even idle. My setup now is 35 1/2 turn out LJH needle middle clip and 112 main but I could go to a 115. It's definetly not choked down. The LJJ second groove up was great power, more than the LJH middle, but the L taper gives such fast power it was a bit scary in tight sections with big drops. The fast power might be better for people like me who don't do the rev and dump much. I,ve probably mentioned alot of things you already know. Hope I have'nt bored you too much with the length. It would be good to see you chuck that Keihin back on and try some different settings..... Maybe?

No problem! Might take a month or two though.

Great info borus. Wouldn't mind trying that setup. Richer pilot but leaner slide to compensate and a richer needle dropped lower to compensate. Can't get the JFH needle. Isn't even on the Keihin chart. I'll try through the factory. Might be a special.

Some variations - 2008 290 Sea level Boysens and Kiehin PWK 28 existing manifold 35 pilot 1/2 turn out, LJJ needle 2nd clip groove from bottom, 3.5 slide, 112 main too much power for begginers try and you'll see. Can use a 3 slide with pilot 1and 3/4 turns out gives richer off the bottom. 35 pilot 1/2 turn out, LJH needle middle clip, same slide and main. easier to handle still very fast power when opening the throttle due to L needle tapper 35 pilot 3/4 to 7/8 turn out, JJH needle 2nd clip groove from bottom, 3.5 slide, 112 main very smooth. 115 main also works with all these settings JJJ needle too lean midrange with pinging. some will still use. 38 pilot also works but turn out to 1 and 1/4 to 2 turns . Float height - Carb upsidedown - tilt 45 degrees - the float should be resting, but not depressing, the spring-loaded float valve pin - measure from flat point where it joins the float bowl to top of float 19mm. Does anyone know what settup Pat Smage uses on his 08?

Don't know if it's all in my head but I've noticed my clutch is a bit grabby with a bit of a shudder. Never done a clutch before but I've read the service manual and it doesn't look too hard. I've just replaced the water pump seals and flushed the oil several times. If needed should all the plates be replaced and should the metal plates be dead flat or should I just try cleaning them. If so which cleaning agent. I don't know exaclty what to look for. Any help appreciated.

My 2008 290 ran as blubbery as hell when I opened the throttle with factory reeds or boysens. Jets were 33 pilot 3 turns out and 120 main. I put a 115 main in and it helped a little but since I already had a Keihin I put it on, but this bike doesnt like too much fuel. Jets in the Keihin are 35 pilot 3/4 of a turn out which is JUST not hunting for fuel. Like Cope said in another post this gives nice smooth power roll on the first part of the throttle. JJH needle on second clip groove from the bottom and 112 main. Standard or boysen reeds, this settup still hard to clear at the very very very top. I tried a 108 main but lost power on wide open throttle. My old 2000 had 40 pilot JJG needle first clip groove from bottom and 120 main and still cleared out at the very top. I can use a JJJ, JJH, JJG, LJJ or LJH needle in the Keihin but the bike runs best with all, second from bottom clip groove. Changing the needle gives more subtle changes to fuel delivery than changing the clip position. The Keihin is a tight fit on the 08. I had to heat and bend the throttle cable straw, make a new air box boot and use a thick zip tie around the back of the carb up to the frame under the rear guard to keep the carb up off the case and a little bit of careful filing the float bowl helps as well. Sounds like its all abit too hard but I tried the dellorto out again a couple of weeks ago and put the Keihin straight back on. The Keihin now comes on and off easier than the Dellorto. You can try different mains in the Dellorto but for me personally the Keihin is heaps faster and cleaner revving.

I had a 2000 290 and now have a 2008 290 and they both do exactly the same. The only way to completely get rid of the knock is to run the needle really rich. On my 08 I just dont worry about it. But you do have to make sure that it doesnt do it excessively. Try dropping the needle to its lowest setting, that is clip in highest position. If the engine knocks excessively and it is the same as the sound you are describing, then the bike is not getting quite enough fuel. On my 2000 I ran a D37 needle raised all the way up. The bike never pinged but had so much power slower sections needed alot of clutch control. There is no way my 08 will accept as much fuel as the 2000. Before mucking about with needles and jetting make sure the carb is spotless. You need to get your midrange (needle) right first and then adjust pilot and main jet. I have been where you are but dont worry about a slight knock when the throttle shuts off quickly. Hope this has helped. Mark.

I just took the standard head off and put the cab head on. Did'nt measure anything although I did notice the squish area looked about the same and the recess was definitely shallower with higher compression. The bike seemed to have extra grunt from low revs. Good for double steps and such.

I have an 08 with cabby head and keihin carb. I've searched through the parts books and have found these are the only two differences between standard and cabby powerwise. All other part numbers seem to be the same. Timing is factory and throttle is quick. I have put Boysen duel stage reeds in and bike is tuned lean. The power delivery is very smooth with no need to change the timing or throttle. The power delivery when the bike was new and standard was very aggressive. Try to persevere with the factory timing and quick throttle. If your balance is ok, throttle and clutch control will come quickly. I'm just a hack but that's how its worked for me. Definitely try duel stage reeds. Mark.

Sounds like pre ignition engine ping to me. My 2000 did it and my 08 does exactly the same. I ran my 2000 so rich on the pilot and needle to stop it pinging but fowled a plug every second weekend. Try raising the needle all the way up and scewing out the gas screw or a richer pilot jet to see weather it helps. If it does, try to reach a happy medium. From my experience with two bikes from 2000 to 2008 you'll never get rid of all the pinging.

I've had an 08 290 since October last year and have recently cleaned out the tank. Full of swarf from drilling out the fuel tap hole during manufacturing. Shame Sherco! Put a Cab head and Kiehin on after run in and did notice heat marks on the barrel. Cleaned up well. Thought I took it easy but obviously not enough. Stay away from hillclimbs. My first tank was 50:1 and 80:1 after that. Have also put a set of boysen reeds in. Even though it's tuned lean just off throttle the power is incredibly smooth. LOVE IT! You'll notice a big change in the bike (engine and suspension) after a month or two. Last bit of advice, keep checking everything with a thread. Hope this helped. Mark.

Ryan Young suggests 80:1 . Alot of people including experts use up to 100:1. I know two guys with 2001 321 gassers that have run 100:1 every weekend from new to this day and engines are still strong. 50:1 will clog the exhaust alot faster and reduce power. I replaced the mid silencer on my old 2000 290 that the previous owner ran at 50:1 and it made a big difference to the power. I now run motorex full synth 80:1 up to 100:1 in an 08 290.

That chart comes from a seven page 4 stroke shootout. Great read. Great mag. Download previous issues, there are good reviews on new bikes. The mag is mainly MX but there is always a section on trials.