Sum

Thanks! The cold water worked!! Maybe it worked without cold water, but anyway now my brake is back

I see. Thanks, I'll try the cold water and if it doesn't work, I guess I need to take them out for sanding.

Cold water?

Hi all, I have ridden my 2020 GasGas 280 for about 50 hours and the rear brake became less effective with squeaking noise. The brake pads seem to have life left. I would appreciate your thought about it. Should I change the pads? Or brake fluid? Or clean the surface of the pads and disc? thanks,

I meant front up to clear obstacles.

Hi all, I have been practicing skills for controlled wheelie for many months with my GasGas TXT and developed two types of the approaches; 1: Gas and clutch meet simultaneously. With a body action, I can lift the front wheel 2: Rev the engine first (flywheel preload?). Closing the gas and clutch meet simultaneously. #2 is more difficult because of more things to control; the amount of rev and the timing of the clutch meet, which have to get synchronized with the body action. I can get a good result only once in three or four tries. However, once the wheel is up, I feel it's more controllable. In the #1 approach, the front wheel rises with acceleration while in the #2 way, the front wheel stops naturally at the lifted position, giving me much more time for control the situation. Another thing I found is I need almost no gas for the #2 way and, thus, it gives me more traction. Actually, in a slippery slope, #2 is the only way to lift the wheel. Now, practicing #1 and #2 make me easily confused and I want to focus on one of the ways, if appropriate. I have been looking around the internet but haven't found much information about these two approaches. Youtube videos by Rich Larsen touched on the #2 approach several times. So, I guess #2 is a legitimate approach. I would appreciate any helps, suggestions, or advises about these two different approaches. I especially want to know which one is the way I should focus on. Thanks!

Thank you all for the comments. They are very helpful. I'm still a newbie but have been so fascinated by the skills for vertical motions, which certainly hurt my joints. I think I will spend coming few months to horn my skill for horizontal motions, which is still horrible (didn't know how difficult to have a tight turn in a slope). For the therapy, there seem no easily solutions, but I may give the cortisone shot a try.

Thank you for sharing your experiences. Now I found it is not uncommon and it makes me feel better. There seem no magic methods. I took weeks of physical therapies and thought they were useless but I guess I need to patiently follow their recommendations like taping, massage, etc. One funny thing is whenever I got problems with joints, doctors say, "you need rest but also need to build the muscle". This is indeed a balancing act and at age 59, I feel I'm gradually loosing the battle. One final question, do you think a handle bar with the higher rise would help?

Hi all, Since I bought a GasGas last September, I have been practicing almost everyday in my backyard. In the beginning, I developed pains in both wrists and elbows. Although most of them went away as I got used to it, the pain in my left elbow remains (Golfer's elbow). I thought it would go away sometime but it seems heading south gradually. I wonder if I can get some suggestions to cope with it by changing riding style or the bike settings (higher handle?). My doctor said that stopping the activity would be the best cure but he can do injection of anti-inflammation drugs in the elbow, if I want. I'd appreciate your advises.

Hi all, I found that all recent GasGas repair manuals can now be found at print.ktm. It's not free though. I just ordered one and will see how good it is.

Hi Tomin, I'm also new (2020 280 TXT) and was surprised how the kickstart hit the peg. Yes, it sounds and feels terrible, but I believe it is deigned in that way. If that amount of the force hits the end of the travel in the internal structure (instead of the peg), it may cause greater damages. As other mates said, I now completely forgot about it, but I want to share some experiences that might help you; 1) The starts will become easier over the time and require less force 2) If you engage the gear and roll back the bike, it stops at the top of the cylinder from the back side of the cycle. Then the kick becomes VERY easy. Almost too easy to kick with a good speed. In this say, the kick hits the peg with much less force The downside of this method is, you need to put the gear back to neutral every time you find the top cylinder position. I often just grab the clutch to kickstart. This works but when the gear is cold, my bike has a significant amount of drag and it may make the engine harder to start. With this method with just grabbing the clutch, I usually need 3-5 kicks when the bike is cold. Once warmed up, it works with one kick. 3) Some suggested iridium plug makes the start easier 4) After 6 months of break in, I would say, the engine starts with one kick (neutral, choke pulled) at 2/3 of times but without #2 trick, I need to use my full body weight for a good kick and yes, the kickstart hits the peg hard!

Thanks. Yes, I noticed that their arms are extended. I'll try to correct my posture and see what happens.

Hi, When I bought a trial bike, I was surprised by how low the handle is. It hurt my back and wrists but after half a year of practices, I get used to it. However, one thing still hurts me is the impact when the front wheel hits the ground after slow wheelie. I feel like 100% of my body weight is on my wrists and elbows. I have been trying to somehow release the impact to my legs, but not quite sure how I can do it. If there are any tricks for soft landing, I would appreciate it.

Thanks. Yes, I do have the owner's manual. I wonder if GasGas or any third parties have issues service or workshop manuals. For example, for 2018 and earlier, this (https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html) posts really nice service manuals.

Hi, Does anybody know if workshop manuals are available for the current GasGas TXT models (2019~)?

Thanks Mnug. I took this route and installed an hour/tach meter. The installation was easy. The toughest part was to find a flat place to attach the meter because GasGas TXT has round shapes everywhere. I ended up in using heavy-duty double-sided Velcro and attached it right above the gas tank cap, which worked quite well. I think the hour meter is more useful for maintenance but it is nice to have the tach too. Previously I chose an idle speed based on my liking, which turned out to be 1,300rpm. It is a bit higher than the factory recommended (900-1,100) but not too bad.

Thank you all. feetupfun, do you mean the throttle cable? The rubbers seem fine, but air leak does make sense. I've never pulled out the carb but if the symptom persists, I may need to. Well, sooner or later, this is something I need to learn.... I have been watching YouTube videos yesterday to prepare myself for it?

Hi, Today, while practicing slow wheelie, I looped out. Ever since, the idle of my bike became unstable. Each time I close the throttle, as the rev goes down, the rev goes periodical up and down until it settles at the idle. Then the idle itself is also unstable and stall after a while unless I keep blipping. I hope it is transient like the plug is wet or the carburetor got flooded, but so far it hasn't come back to the normal. I appreciate any suggestions to fix it.

Thank you all. I keep working on front up and what faussy and leosantanalg said start to make sense. As Jrsunt said, I noticed that I tend to lean forward as soon as the front goes up, which caused my right toe to hit the brake. I just relax and try to keep my position relative to the bike unchanged as much as possible (meaning rear biased as the front goes up). Funny that as I get used to the foot brake position of the trial bike, I start to feel the rear brake of my dirt bike too low.

Thanks. This is exactly what I needed. According to the manual, 80N/mm is the standard for the rear shock and the 75N/mm one is for 55-70kg. So, I guess Jitsie site is wrong. I have to find out if Jitsie would ship it to US, though. Edit: I found a Jitsie dealer in US. Thanks!!

My body weight (<135lb) is too light for the standard setup and sure enough, I can't set static and riding sags correctly. There is an OEM part for a softer rear shock coil but it costs more than $300? and there is no OEM fork springs for lighter or heavier riders. I wonder if there are other sources that are selling third party parts. Not sure how critical to have correct springs for beginners, but >$300 seems a bit too much... Your help would be appreciate.

Thanks Michael, Could you give me the link? The one you posted was just a photo.... Also, thanks Kurtas and Faussy. It starts to make a good sense about the foot positioning. It is still a mystery for me why the brake pedal is so high (and there seem many complaining the same), but it seems that I need to master some skills about the way I use my ankles. Especially the tilting of my ankle outward is something I've never thought about. Given how small the pedal is, that'd be effective. In addition to the usual longitudinal tilting, just a small amount of sideway tilting would increase a lot of flexibility about how to reach the pedal. I'll keep on practicing with those in my mind

Hi all, I'm new to trial bikes and would appreciate a bit of education about slow wheelie. After several weeks of practices, I start to be able to reach the balancing point but have problems with the rear brake pedal. Many instruction say "cover the rear brake" and I have no problem with my dirt bikes doing so. However, my trial bike has the rear brake pedal much higher than my dirt bikes; I can only bring it down to slightly above the level to the foot step. Then, I often inadvertently drag the rear brake as the front wheel gets higher. There are several scenarios I can think of; 1) This is because my body position is wrong during wheelie. I should not change my body position relative to the bike as the front goes up. The fact I drag the rear brake means, I start to lean forward, bringing my toes down, thus pushing the rear brake. This may be the case, but I have seen many pros keep their position vertical to the ground (therefore learning toward the handlebar) to clear large obstacles. I have no idea how they can do it without pushing the rear brake. Probably by dropping the heel? 2) I should not constantly cover the brake. I should move my right foot only when I need to press the rear brake. 3) I should cover the rear brake, but twist the toe a bit clockwise such that I do not accidentally hit the brake. 4) Somehow I need to lower the brake pedal further. 5) Something else? Your advises would be much appreciated.

Thanks Arnoux, I tried to find the Leonelli cable, but can't find it in Internet. Could you tell me where I can buy it? Thanks Jeff and faussy for the tips.

Hi all, The manual of 2020 TXT says the idle should be adjusted to 900-1,000 rpm, but how can I know the rpm? The manual shows a "diagnostic connector". Does it mean I can connect an OBD scanner to read diagnostic information including rpm? If so, does anybody know what is the connector between an OBD and the GasGas "diagnostic connector"?