SP250

Thanks fourex - might just try a couple of jubilee clips round the frame pads as a temporary test or some 1/8" hard rubber round the bottom yoke and see how it goes before lighting up the brazing torch. Also will check the frame with a straight edge incase the mk1 eyeball is not true. John M

Thanks for your reply fourex, the fork legs are 170mm centres and i can see the pads welded to the downtubes now i look closely. Frame looks straight. The bottom yoke does contact the edge of the tank about 3 or 4 mm before the yoke hits the stop. Tank deforms slightly then yoke hits the stop. Tank looks original and fits like a glove on the rear rubbers and also the bolt behind the top yoke so from the wear marks looks like it has been that way for a long time. I would have to elongate the holes in the front tank to move the tank back - is this sensible as a solution or just leave it?

I've just bought an MH349 and the lock stops are the fork tubes hitting the edge of the plastic tank. I am certain my novice attempts at trials will see the tank split at some stage. Anyone got a parts manual or failing that, a picture of how/what lockstops should be on the bike please? TIA John M

New to all this standing up and riding slowly stuff. At the ripe old age of 65 I've decided to give trials a go as I'm too old to tear about on race tracks. And falling off a 2 mph is preferable to much faster on tarmac. Well I had a go at the Aqueduct club training day recently and thoroughly enjoyed it on a borrowed Montesa 250. Been riding since i was 15 and done a bit of road racing, but need an excuse to get into the garage for some therapy fettling bikes again, especially with a second lockdown on the horizon. I guess I will be asking lots of daft questions that most of you know the answer to, but we all have to learn from somewhere. Regards John M