jon v8

Buy them both ! Then you can work out which you like best. Keep them both or sell one if you don't like it,as said they are both well made and reliable bikes. I had an early RL and loved the way the engine would pull right down to nothing,as my TY250 does now.I always find the 175 a bit revvy,but people do very well on them. I was sort of joking when I said buy them both,but actually it would be a nice way to work out whats best for you.

Well I ride most weekends and wear them on the road too. I also play / practice during the week too. I just noticed a wet foot one day whilst walking a Dartmoor river section... It didn't bother me and I've bought another pair exactly the same since,I like them.The new ones and the knee length Sealskinz keep me dry and comfy.

Which are waterproof for about a year,but they are good boots anyway.

I'll carry on enjoying warm dry feet,even if my bloody Goretex jacket leaks...

Yes, they do work. I hate having cold, wet feet. sealskinz stop that happening.

You have answered your own question - "It obviously works" So there is no problem,the valve gear only needs to be wet, too much oil in the head area will encourage leaks and blue smoke. Have you got a copy of the Rupert Ratio Unit Singles engine book,if not I'd suggest its a good idea. Loads of info in there. http://www.ratiopublishing.co.uk/

Cub barrels aren't exactly scarce,if machining is not an option in SA why not contact a supplier here in the UK to send you a replacement with matched piston ready to go ? If the crack does open up and bits make a break for freedom you are going to trash alot more of the engine.Bottom end rebuilds are not cheap.

Funny you should mention the hunting tooth - Reminds me of the bevel drive in the MHR Ducati I had. In that situation it was worthwhile. I last thought about it when I saw the wear on my WW2 Matchless cam gears,it was very obvious which teeth did all the work. But on a final drive chain,exposed to even road crud,I can't see any point in worrying.

Should be a bit more empty now...

Nice bike,looks like Ethanol has buggered all the plastic pipes - It will do the same to the fuel tank too.Looks like a Sammy Miller tank / seat unit like I had on my last TY250,the Ethanol wrecked it... The footpegs have been moved back, they are now where everyone seems to have them. I don't know anything about the early 250 motors, FeetupFun is the man who really knows about them.All I would say is that the Ty250 is just about the best twinshock trials bike you will get in most respects.Mick Andrews and Yamaha got their sums right back in the day,and there is plenty of support and knowledge around to make them even better now.

Maybe you need to find a different local welder. Visually most materials should be identifiable, if not a magnet will be a start,applying a grinding disc gives plenty of clues,even down to the colour of the sparks if its a ferrous material. Good job its not a structural repair I'm thinking...

What tank is it ?

I buy our observers cards from Staceys. Looking at their website it appears they do water and tear proof card,so may be worth asking them. https://www.stacyandson.co.uk/our-materials.html

This rear suspension thing is just a passing phase, it won't catch on...

You could just weld it solid and make it into a real trials bike...?

After riding the Bath Classic trial on Sunday I'm having second thoughts.Once I got used to how it rides again I got on really well with it and enjoyed the 2 stroke zap - Which was just what was needed for the A route of the Bath trial.I think the problem is that I so rarely ride it,even my little James is more like a 4 stroke with its huge brass flywheel, the BSA and AJS both plonk superbly which suits how I generally ride. So because there are so many other projects in the workshop I've decided to leave it how Yamaha and Mick designed it back 40 years ago. Just make sure I do some practicing on it before I use it for another trial.

From memory that looks the same as the one I'm running. I'm actually going to ride a trial on it on Sunday,maybe I'll take the cover off after that and have a measure up,see what will fit.

Hi Guy, I think its most likely a D model, but its built up out of junk basically. The bike was a non runner from a breakers yard and I built the engine from boxes of bits that contained about 3 incomplete engines... What I was thinking of doing is to turn up a new band on the lathe as heavy as I could fit in,and gradually trim it down until I like it.I think maybe I'm expecting too much from it really,but it will be interesting to see what happens.

Funny you say that,I'm thinking of adding more weight to my Ty250 flywheel, I rarely use it and find it too easy to stall - I ride without the clutch if at all possible. It just doesn't have AJS flywheels !

Eee, it were ard back then...

Absolutely, its usually easy on a bike. Strimmers and chainsaws aren't easy to do that on, the Aspen fuel has a 5 year shelf life. The fumes from Aspen are much less harmful too,Network rail are allowed to use it for pertol engined whacker plates in railway tunnels,which the HSE had previously stopped them from doing. Shame the Aspen isn't a bit cheaper...

Inbox was full, I've emptied it out a bit,should work now.

Twas me, have a look here; I can convert a frame and swinging arm to exactly how they were - unlike some other conversions I have seen,including some at Telford.

Fanny, have a look here; http://www.twinshockchampionship.org.uk/

Section Swept, as with Metisse I agree with most of what you said apart from some of the Yamaha comments. The main thing being the way they steer, they are very good - one thing that the Majesty frames did not alter was the steering angle,even today many riders try to improve them by using leading axle forks from the mono's - most go back to the originals. Mick did know what he was doing,and Yamaha were sensible enough to listen. Also its only the outer clutch and magneto covers that are magnesium, the main crankcases are aluminium alloy that welds beautifully. The outer cases can usually be repaired nicely with JB weld or similar. I can't understand why you think they are difficult to work on... You want to try an AJS.Matchless motor if you think Yams are bad.