jon v8

I'm interested to know how you get on with the NEB clutch,the Norton clutch on my HT is just about knackered and I'd considered an NEB one.Two riders whom I respect as riders and engineers told me that they are not too hot on a trials bike as they were designed for speedway use and are a bit too fierce in action,they both said the Norton clutch is a better bet.

Well now I'm even more confused ! Welcome to TC Samyam,good to have your input,OTF obviously knows who you are and your knowledge of the topic. Can I please state I have no wish whatsoever to upset ANYONE - I'm just trying to work out what was done,and what effect it had in the way they ride. But..... tonight I have just added more pics to my web album showing how the swinging arm is changed from a standard one.My mate dropped it off this afternoon for me to beat the rusted spindle out.We were discussing the whole Majesty thing and concluded that there is no conclusion ! My slant on it is that John Shirt would not have stuck rigidly to one exact layout,maybe even altering bikes to suit individual riders ? Also there is nothing to say that the particular one I've been working on has not been modified since its original conversion - I've changed just about every bike I've ever had. Reading what Samyam states clearly is very specific,but directly opposed to an article recently co written by John Shirt where he states that the steering head angle was 'tweaked' and the swinging arm was altered to improve the rear suspension - now you can see why I'm confused !

Well just to muddy the water even further I decided to make a jig this afternoon to fit the Majesty frame.I only had a couple of hours but I got far enough to take the Maj frame out and sit the Yam one in instead.I made the jig to sit the frame in upside down as its easier to work on and also easier to see how it was changed. As soon as I sat the Yam frame in the jig I could see a problem,it wouldnt sit flat.Ten minutes of looking,measuring and head scratching and I think I can see what is going on. The steering angle is steeper,on this frame it was done by cutting out a section of the spark plug cutout.I think this is why the cutout bit is cut right through at the front and not at the back.They then just bent the top tube down - it clearly isnt straight,then welded the spark plug cutout back together.So the next step is to work out how much to cut out and bend the top tube. I had toyed with the idea of making a jig before,and with the frames side by side I couldnt resist it,looks like alot of work,but I think that only by making one will I actually learn fully how it was done.I have no intention of trying to make any money from doing this,its just that I've read so much about them - alot of which doesnt really add up.(And its all good practice for the hardtail conversion I have planned for my 750 Honda bobber project...)

Tis clever stuff - its got me interested now,like I said it was only quick check tonight before I walked home.(I had just noticed it was raining again...) I'm going to have a good measure up and proper close up look.

I've added some more pics to the Picasa album,the silver coloured one is one of my frames for comparison.I quickly checked the steering head angle tonight,I think its slightly steeper than the original Yam frame.

Remembered to take my camera to work at last.... Pics here; https://picasaweb.google.com/AllyV8/MajestyFrame#5693838855776632434

That does look tidier than the loop,the one I have been working on was sort of like that - but one side was longer than the other and at different height.Bit of a mess really,but now it is at least straight enough to bolt a new mudguard on. Comparing the Majesty frame to one of my standard frames as you say Woody - its not very obvious how the engine was raised in the frame,you can see where its different,but not so easily how it was done.The front downtubes are obvious,but at the back of the engine its not clear.Rear shock mounts are easy enought to see what was done.From what Mick Andrews told me I can see why it was deemed easier to make frames from scratch rather than modify originals.

I'll try to remember to take some pics tomorrow,as in my sig - I'm near Bath,out in the sticks.

Thanks Woody and Bo,the one I've repaired looks just like the one in Bo's pictures so I think its fair to assume its a proper one. G14gav, I bent up a new bit of tube and turned up a pair of sleeves to fit the new rear loop on.Made a new bracket for the rear mudgaurd too.Time comsuming,but has put it back as it should be.

I've just spent most of today repairing and tidying what appears to be an early Ty250 Yam based Majesty frame.Stripped threads,missing captive nuts and sawn off rear frame loop.All sorted now,but while I was doing it I noticed quite a difference in the quality of the work on the parts that are modded from the original layout.The welds and brackets for the rear shocks are nicely made and well done for example,but the join at the rear of the toolbox under the top tube is a bit "Orrible".I'm doing it for a mate and I've never really taken much notice of the frames before,(Only the new ones at Telford etc)it got me wondering if its a proper Shirt modified one or a copy. Is there a way of telling ?

Nailing Mont points on could be like using a wax candle..... good luck with the Fanny - cant be too much wrong.... With any luck I should be at the Golden Valley trial on the 29th Jan.Maybe not Serow powered,quite - but see you and Bo there ?

Cant you get the points off a TY175 to work on it ? Happy new year !

Sorry,I disagree.A different pair of eyes looking over a vehicle once a year has to be a good thing,for my/your and the general publics safety. The tax exempt thing is what I really appreciate.

It can be difficult,but often worth waiting for.I spent about 8 months looking for a pre unit rigid,eventually I was offered my HT5 by another club member.It upset a few older members who thought they were in line for it,but I ended up with it because I wanted one to ride.It wasnt a rigid,but close enough ! The main thing to bear in mind with any older bike is that there will be a period of time needed to sort the bike to your liking and to get it up to scratch reliability wise,all the time I've had my Ariel,(And all the other old bikes I've had...)its been a constant process of fixing/modding various bits.Its going to come apart now to change gear ratios,sort the clutch and rebuild the front forks. The OSSA would be nice - but I'm sure the kids would let the cat out of the bag.

I'd ask around at your local club,people do sell decent bikes now and then,at least you have an idea of how well it rides,has been looked after etc.Not saying there is anything wrong at all with the twinshock shop,they have some really nice bikes - I've been dribbling over that green OSSA they have for weeks now.(But I think my wife might notice another bike.....)

I wouldnt let it put you off a Fantic,there are plenty of people around who can help out with frame repairs or mods.

Most people seem to have this big idea that they need lots of power and that a 125/200 is not enough for them.Truth is 99% of riders are better off with less power,esp when its wet.Generally a nice soft engine that runs cleanly will be a better friend than a zappy 250/300 that puts you on the brakes all the time.

Another member of our club has a plunger Bantam,send me a pm or E-mail from our NEW website and I'll put you in touch with him if its any help. http://www.bathclassicmcc.co.uk/

They ought to try starting a 500cc Ariel - they would soon learn what its all about.(Esp if the timing was left on full advance ! )

I may be a bit hazy on this,but I thought the Chapmans were built on a DT175MX Yam motor,same as the BSA Tracker ?

Didnt think of you,see you at Telford ?

I dont think there is anything on the net,all I have is the little handbook thay came with the bikes from new.I guess there is a paper manual,Yamaha ones are usually very good,I have the one for the later models but not for my TS ones. E-Bay or Amazon is probably the best route.

I would go for the Electrex world system which goes on the end of the crank,very accurate,reliable and invisible. http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/STK-010.html

So my mate claiming he has James Bonds bike ! Chapman frame number 007 could be right then ? (Only joking about the Bond bit.) I have seen it a couple of times but its well hidden behind many other gems.

I'd vote for cast iron too,HT's dont run at all hot and Nicosil is an expensive non rebore-able process.I'd spend the money on a reliable spark.