Goudrons2

I don't think it's the pump that usually causes this issue, but the pickup pipes or clips/joints between them all. I believe the pipes can rupture and those Clic R fuel hose clamps they use can leak, particularly if they've been off and refitted. So best replace with suitably sized jubilee clips or proper screw up fuel hose clamps. Though I never had an issue with the throttle postiton sensor, that does crop up on some posts as causing similar problems.

The 2008 Rev3 was the last of the line and some of the niggles were sorted, mainly they dumped the dribbly Mikuni and fitted a Keihin carb for the 2008. I ended up binning the Mikuni on my old 2007 Rev3 and fitted a Dellorto VHST, it really did transform the bike as I believe the Keihin did for the 2008. There were some frame issues with the early Evo's, I think it was limited to the 2009 models, a lot of frames were replaced due to cracking. I seem to think they moved to "Hydro Formed" frames shortly after. Ok, they didn't sort every niggle with the 2008, the clutch is prone to dragging and sticking, but you'll find the same can be said of the Evo's. You need to run them of 98 ron fuel, otherwise they'll knock and bang due to pre detonation. They do like a well packed silencer, they can sound and feel a bit airy and rough if it's all burnt away. They should sound like they have a solid "bark". The rear Paioli shock can suffer, it can go all squidgy and leak. I believe there's a rubber bladder that seperates the gas from the oil and that can split. Getting one rebuilt was very hard 15 years ago, probably impossible now but there are afterrmarket alternatives that won't break the bank. The case the water pump fits in has been known to rot away. Coolant seems to eat away at the metal and into the gear oil. Not sure if it's due to wrong coolant or not. Also the impeller will often look like a dogs chew toy. There is a kit with a bigger, metal impeller and spacer that works really well. Rev3 Stators can fail which leaves you with no spark. You can get them rewound by Bradford Ignitions. Plenty of info around about testing them. In the wet, water and mud can get up past the rear shock around the top mount and get into the airbox. You can pack around the top of the shock with an open cell foam, that keeps most of it away from the airbox. With the exception of the carb, I seem to think pretty much everything else is interchangeable with Rev3's between 2002 onwards (maybe they might have changed the caliper early on aswell) The 2000 and 2001 had a different airbox design which had a different seat/rear mudguard, but the rest of the models the plastics are interchangeable, even the plastics from the Rev 4T will fit bikes between 2002 and 2008.

That filter won't help. The fuel pump should put out between 3 and 3.5 bar when energised/engine running. You can buy a cheap gauge for less than 20 euros and slice it between the outlet on the top of the tank and the pipe to the injector, that would diagnose a pump/filter/pipework issue within the tank.

This sounds like it is running lean. There is a pump and filter in the fuel tank and I believe early bikes can leak causing the engine to run lean. Mine did it, not sure what the fix was as I took it in to be fixed though I read it's either the filter pipe connectors or the pipe itself. The pipe clips aren't great as the one on the top of my tank started dribbling recently when the engine was running. See this post for what the pump and filter looks like. There are a few posts regarding Vertigo fuel filter or Vertigo fueling problems that other owners have started.

The TLM was never offically sold in the UK, Europe or the US, it was a Japanese market bike with a 2 stroke engine based on a Montesa engine. The ones you find in the UK are all grey market stuff that were mainly shipped in by grey importers as cheap fillers in shipping containers full of JDM 400's sportbikes when the supply of TLR 200's started to dry up, which were another filler but also a big hit.

When I taught our boy to ride and others to ride on the road, I found it important to "mentally" link the throttle, clutch and rear brake together. Get them to set the throttle, feed the clutch in and modulate the results of that with the rear brake rather than the throttle, so they have the bike pulling against the rear brake as the crawl along. It keeps them from working the throttle back and forth (and lurching about) and shows them they can set the throttle, release the clutch yet control the speed with the rear brake rather then the throttle. It takes a while, but when it sinks in you can throw all those tight control turns at them and they find them a breeze.

1998 with be a Rotax engined "Easy" model. I know you were interested in a K Roo at one point, so think K Roo only worse. I seem to remember Graham Jarvis won the 1998 SSDT on one, about the bikes only notable achievement and probably says more about Graham than the bike! From that period, the Beta Techno and the Montesa 315 were leaps and bounds ahead of it. Don't think Scorpa used Yamaha engines until 2001 when they launched the SY. The SR came in 2010. Scorpa also sold the TYF from around 2003, though I think they used a few other names for it over the years/markets like TYS (I think that model came with a proper seat). This was a 4 stroke, aircooled "modern" trials bike. It's quite a tidy bike that found a bit of a following as a cheaper, easier to handle bike than Montesa's 4 stroke, the 4RT. Think it came with either a 125cc or 175cc engine but there are kits to take the 125 version out to around 143 to 160cc.

Some of those marks have a distinct curve that I've seen before. I think a wire wrist/gudgeon pin clip has done that. One of these https://www.pedparts.co.uk/product/2241/14mm-gudgeon-pin-piston-circlip The large score on the inside of the barrel looks about the same diameter as a wire wrist pin clip as well. Have you still got both clips, one from each end of the wrist pin?

I couldn't agree more, leave the odd ball stuff alone. If it really must be air cooled, perhaps a Yamaha TY250 mono might be a better choice. They sold plenty and spares shouldn't be too hard to find. For a water cooled "modern" bike, you can't go far wrong with a Beta Rev3. If you're stuck on Fantic, a 200 or 240 twinshock in useable condition might push your budget, but you should have problems keeping one running and it shouldn't lose you a penny.

Are you sure it's a 1998? I thought they made them from around 1990 to 1993 or 4 and then they started making the Fantic Section around 1995. The K Roo wasn't that great a bike and it's hardly a classic, I'd keep looking. They also didn't ride great either, quite a tall bike with iffy upside down forks. The radiator is slung under the tank, horizontally and they tended to boil over and spit scolding hot coolant over you. Quite a few turned up on the secondhand market with cooked engines back in the day, no one could be bothered fixing them as there were much better bikes on the market. I had a 1991 years ago and parts were virtually non existent back then. Same goes for the 1995 Section I had after the K Roo. I missed my Section, can't say the same about the K Roo!

Suzuki250 is right, but first find out why it pinched up in the first place and fix that. Then get a new piston and a replate or a look for a decent second hand piston and barrel.

Make sure the inlet valve is working and shutting off the gas when the tang rests on it. If dirt has got in to it or the seal on the tip of the plunger has rotted away, it'll never shut off the fuel no matter what height the tang/float is.

I wouldn't be too fussed whether it's 200 or 250. Just make sure it's not totally clapped out and check any over well. Rev3's have a few foibles, but no more than any other bike. Play close attention to the rear shock. They can break up inside, get all squishy and I believe are very hard to rebuild due to parts availabilty. Years back I had to go aftermarket, so I doubt things have got any better. Cutches drag and stick if left unused for a while, all part of the charm but the engine with knock if run on regular petrol, they need 98 ron. The Mikuni carb on models between 2000 and 2007 are a bit crude, they can lean out or dribble out on hills if the float height isn't spot on. The 2008 came with a Keihin carb that was better though a good upgrade for the Mik is a Dellorto Vhst. Most parts are still available, but I think 2000 and 2001 rear mudguards aren't. These bikes had the airbox cover in the side rather than all the later ones that had it in the seat, anything 2002 onwards is pretty interchangeable.

Sounds like a bit of piston slap to me. The bore might be worn and the piston is rattling in it as it goes up and down. If you search Youtube for 2 stroke piston slap or rattle, you should find a few videos of bikes with a similar rattle/knock. If the barrel is off, try and get someone to measure the piston and the bore for you with a proper bore gauge. The bores are nikasil plated ( a hard silicon carbide ceramic coating), so you don't rebore them out and fit a bigger piston. New coating is applied to the bore and honed down to match a new piston. If I remember correctly, Beta manuals always stated that you measure the bore after x amount of hours and if needed, replace the pistion with one a micron or two bigger. So a standard piston might be 72.5mm, but you could buy A, B & C piston kits, each one a micron or two bigger than the last. Once you exhausted the piston kits it was time to replate, if I'm right about the slap, that's where you are. Something I've done for years is apply a thin smear of grease to paper gaskets. It stops it sticking to the surfaces. Sometimes you can get away with using the gasket again, but it mainly stops you having to scrape old gasket off the machined surfaces and perhaps damaging them.

Yes, the 2000 and 2001 had the airfilter and cover on the left side of the bike, later models had them under a flap in the seat(cough)/rear mudguard so they had different rear mudguards and as PeterT states, the early ones are all gone now. I had a 2001 and a 2007 and from what I remember, it didn't look like it would have been impossible to change over to the later setup. I never tried it but some one might have.