Thanks Team, going for it again this morning with more lube. It's being fitted in readiness for the Manx 2 day. I've been advised to give it a few miles on the road to soften up the tyre wall which sounds reasonable?
Thanks for all the tips guys. It's putting up a good fight alright, we've got it to take pressure now but can't quite get the last bit of bead to seat on the rim, it's not popped into place. Tyre markings says max 33psi which is a bit of a joke, how high can I go with the pressue without killing myself?
Do you remember what jetting you ran with your keihin,plus did you ever run it with th delorto?
I remember reading that you put a 9 on the front and you said it transformed it,can you tell me how and why??
Thanks again mate!
pilot 50 main 118 middle clip on the needle, is what GG UK recommended and it works a treat on my '07 200. Also running with 1 flywheel weight and the long header pipe, 9/42 gearing, I like it a lot. Smoother right of the bottom end and seems to grip better too.
Plumbers freeze it spray stuff ! Freeze the race then a bit of light percusive maintenance (smack it with hammer). Watch out for flying shattered steel though.
Rode my new 225 for the first time today...........................WOW!
Really great fun bike to ride with loads of power and really soft off the bottom,bike feels light and much more agile and stable due to less engine inertia!
Three other guys rode it,an expert champion,clubman tip rider and a younger guy who has a 125,everyone loved it and did not want to get off it.
Spec i ended up running.....................
Gearing 9/42
Dellorto carb with 125 jetting
short front pipe
two 125 flywheel weights
Benz
Interested in the two fly wheel weights; I'm running one at the mo' and think it could be a bit softer at the bottom again, how do you attach the second weight? Mine was a shrink fit onto the flywheel boss.
I need to refit the standard rear brake light and horn for a daylight MOT ahead of a road trial next month (Manx). Can someone give me some clues as to which wire goes where? I have all the standard wiring and light in a box and can't figure it out.
Seconded ATF works fine but can feel a bit grabby.
GG USA recomends:
"
GAS GAS RECOMMENDATIONS
Spark Plug
NGKBP5RES, Champion RN11YC, Bosch Platinum WR9DP
Trans/Clutch Oil
Always 5W30 (Not 10W40), 350cc for the Pro, 650cc for other models, normal motor oil (Castrol/Penzoil etc). It is not recommended to use synthetic oil.
Gasoline
95 Octane minimum. No alcohol type blends. (Jim uses Sunoco purple 115 octane 20% to Shell unleaded premium 80%).
Premix
Between 80:1 and 100:1
Brake Fluid
DOT 4 is standard. DOT 5 is fine. (All higher numbers mix with lower numbers)."
I'm tempted to try the 5W30 myself next oil change.
Thinking of splashing out on a new(ish) bike and the 4T is in the frame. I've heard of a couple of glitches in two local bikes, are they generally ok or are there really some teathing problems?
Rebuild of my lads TY80 is getting there, lost the little ball bearing which goes between the mushroom push rod and the plain push rod... rod diameter is 4.8mm so I'm guessing a 4mm ball will do the trick?
I'm hoping someone here can give me a clue with regard to road registering my Mont but it's not been brought into the UK via Sandifords...
This could mean there's a VAT problem waiting for me? I mean if the original importer brought it in and didn't pay the VAT, when I go to register it will I have to pick up the tab?
I'm on the look out for the first proper trials bike for my lad, I like the look of the beta's, particularly the 50 with gears and manual clutch. He has a CRF50 with 110 / 4 speed manual clutch fitted which he gets on really well with so I don't want to go back to a semi-auto. He's 8yrs and 4ft2in or 125cm tall. I want a decent bike so would like to buy nearly new, what sort of prices do the 50's fetch, it's difficult to get a handle on what things are worth when there are so few about. Oh and is there anything peculiar to the little betas which i should watch out for?
I'm due to change the decals on the 315r frame for new, unmangled items and wondered if there was a recommended way of doing the job. Hairdrier to heat up and remove the old ones?
Agreed; you can't knock the chap's perseverance! I can only assume he has some successes along the way and this is just a nice montage of his amusing failures. He certainly looks like he can ride a bit.
Buy the red mudguard 1998 I think -much more flexible than the painted metallic 01 mudguards. Should be able to get mudguards and stickers separate -I know Haven used to do them.
You can save a few quid by only buying the main decal, seat and little side decals waste of time IMHO
Now that is a pearl of wisdom. My 'mate' had a spin on my new to me '02 on sunday and propmtly flipped it and snapped the rear mudder for me. His '98 has been on it's back more times than Paris Hilton and he hasn't snapped the mudgaurd yet. And now we know why!
I notice jitsie and others make a diiferent peg hanging bracket which is 10mm further back for the 4RT and 315R. Does this make much difference and is there a downside? Opinions on 315R fitment especially welcome.
Check you engine oil and change it if its done a bit of work, only 1L of 10W40 so pretty cheap to do. There's a mod to the push rod cam which helps a bit too, it needs the clutch taking apart to do IIRC. Lubricate all the pivot points from the lever down to the actuating arm as well. The venhill featherlite cable is worth having too.
Bleeding Trouble.. :/
in Gas Gas
Posted
Try pushing the fluid up from the bleed nipple to the m/cylinder using a syringe.