jonathan collier

Clutch is not a problem as such, up take could be more progresive though. There's a mod to radius the actuating cam if it really upsets you, which can make it a little better. Stock tank holds enough for a good ride too, seems really frugal.

Try ad find the TYS125 four stroke. Easier to ride, less power and more forgiving. It's what I returned to after a long break, my last was TY175 too, and I love the TYS. JonC

Ah well seeing as the tube had rotted away perhaps they all fell out! Nice new stainless tube in there now, no bars.

Just repacked the exhaust silencer, couldn't find any sign of restrictor bars in there, apparently not all of the restriction should be removed. Can any one enlighten me? A pic of what they should look like would be great. Thanks, Jon

Just cleaning my 4T carb, stripped down the thing and was wondering if there should be a spring on top of the diaphragm which is under the little cover on the side of the carb? The cover has one csk screw and one button head screw with a little diaphragm dodah under there, is there meant to be a spring between the cover and the daiphragm? (can't find a diagram for it online) Ta for any info, Jon

For a novice I recon the 4T is perfect. You'll loose more marks ona 250 2T than the 4T. Learn the ropes and when you move upto clubman class think about a 2T but you'll probably keep the 4T for ever

Great topic! I've twisted both knees in the recent past, don't know what bits I've damaged but it's taken a few months to get any where near OK. With hind sight I'd rather have trained the relavent muscles to give more support. What training is best for this?

Any magnet flying past the sensor will do, gluing a small flat magnet to the disc may work, I've done it successfully on road bikes.

Unbiased opinions wanted on the best first geared/clutched kids trials machine. I've been recomended that the Beta is the one to go for, but didn't realise that there was a mini trial(semi auto?) and a rev50 (geared/clutch). My boy has had a JR50 and currently has CRF50 semi auto which he's got the hang of, looking for the next step up in the next six months or so. Ta for any info.

Are you sure that they are gone? I read a good tip somewhere in internet land, slip a bit of photo film negative between the fork tube and seal (lift the upper dust seal out of the way first), run the film around the oil seal a few times. Worked for me, must have been a bit of muck trapped in there between the seal and tube, the film is thin enough to fit in there and shift it.

My lad is 6 1/2, started out on a cheap chinese quad (never agin!) which he loved but took a lot of TLC to keep going, then had a suzuki LT50, good bike with nice low seat and now on a Honda CRF50, 3 speed semi auto which is just fabulous. It starts every time first kick (and he can kick start it too), super reliable and ideal to get into balancing, gear selection and braking. I have a very tired TY80 in the shed which I'm slowly rebuilding (looking for a good crank/rod or engine for it). I hope to get him on the TY next year. He's really too small a the mo' to start youth trials, the LT & CRF are ideal to get them started out IMHO and then get a pukka trials iron if they show an interest. Jon

Stop trying to keep up with mighty 125 four strokes or loose weight.

Have you done the Birket's jet/s change and air screw settings? Idle speed seems better if its set a little higher than 'normal'too.

Can't say I've had a problem finding somehwherer to ride but I can imagine it's tricky if you aren't based in the countryside. I've used the land registry web site in the past, to track down the owner of likely looking land. It's got a nifty ariel search function and you can zoom right in to the point where it'll look for titles within 5m of the spot you pick. It's not infalible but for

More carb fiddling last night, double checking everything again. I've fitted a little piece of stainless tube inside the rubber connecting tube between airbox and carb (I think this is a Birket tip!) Found the tube in work, a piece of hoover piping was just the right thickness and diameter and appears to be stainless too. Cut off an 1 1/2" and squeezed it in there, holds the circular shape now without the rubber getting kinked. Dunno if this makes any difference but it looks better and I think it was easier to refit the rubber to the carb as you had something to grip I've got enough left over for a couple more, if any one want's a bit drop me a line with yer addy, or I'll be going to the Hawkstone round at the w'end and could bring it.

Yep checked the jet sizes, (bought 'em then stripped carb and found they were already in there) float height fine, etc. Had another fiddling session this evening, checked what the needle pos was: lowest clip with 2.5mm plastic washer underneath, some evidence of prior fiddling there too. Is the white plastic spacer meant to be there? Will be ringing Bkts tomorrow (busy today when i tried). Also tried resticting the air box intake with a rag, that seemed to make it a little better on brisk WOT response, may try a next bigger jet.

New bike doing well, got my best result in my class two weeks ago. Got a minor problem which seems carb related though, starts fine, idles fine, jets recommended sizes but it will bog down easily if the throttle is opened really quickly. For instance if you try and left the wheel from low rpm's by throttle alone rather than rev up a bits and clutch, it bogs completely. Once its up and spinning response seems fine. Haven't checked needle position, what should it be? Oh and while I'm typing, what grade of fork oil should i use and how much per leg? cheers Jon

Lubing all the pivot points has made a noticable difference on mine. Include the bits where the cable nipples fit, both ends and ofcourse the cable itself, it definately helped. I might go for a lengthend lever at the gearbox end as well in due course.

Just started playing around on my newly aquired TYS125, the clutch seems a little grabby, is there a mod for this? Longer or extended actuating arm? Any other mods I should consider for the 125, jets and exhaust have been done, going for a 10T front sprocket as well. ta Jon

Will be looking at a 125 scorpa shortly, SY model. Is there anything specific to watch out for? I'm OK with the usual stuff, just anything scorpa or 4stroke come to think of it. Thanks.

Here's a snap of my son Jack watch how it's done. Apols for the quality it was taken with my phone. JonC

Thanks fellas willtry the peg weighting advice and check the position of the fork relative to top yoke. From memory its on the 2nd ring, not flush.

Just learning to ride the 290, 04 model. I'm experiencing a sort of over steer or tucking in of the front end during very tight, all most on the lock stops, turns. I've not fiddled with preload settings or damping (if there is any adjustment?) wondered if this could be dialled out? I ride novice B/C grade so no big steps or drop offs to contend with. Any advice appreciated.

Having just spent a frustrating 2 hrs in the shed fitting a new seal kit to the rear master cylinder I thought I'd pass on a tip to the sherco riders here. The circlip which retains the brake cylinder piston had rusted away letting the piston fall down too low and releasing brake fluid. It was really difficult to get out, probably should have dropped the swing arm out to do it. The tip : slip the little rubber boot off the bottom of the cylinder and slap some grease in there to stop the clip rusting!

Trials bike will also fit in a nissan cubistar if you poke the front wheel between thedrivers and passengers seats. Personally I'd have a transporter, the 130 TDi if I could afford