alan_nc

I also don't like the AHRMA rules on Trials and the 2nd Class treatment. BUT!!!!! We will never get it fixed unless we continue to be members of the organization and make our wishes known. 1. Eliminate "no-Stop" 2. Include later model bikes 3. Use Peer scoring - Speed things up, and get rid of scorers who don't have a clue what they are doing. Also waiting on scorers. just my .02

On one of my TY250s I run 11 and 50. It really depends on your riding style and the type of Trials you ride. Do you use 2nd gear in sections or always 1st? I like to be able to have the bike almost stop and I like to use backpressure on downhills. just my .02 Alan

A couple of comments: Are you putting a nice TY175 fuel tank on another bike frame? TY175 fuel tanks are worth a mint - check Ebay. If it's going on a mix-matched bike anyway sell the tank and buy a YAMAHA DT/MX 125 tank. They are about the same size and sell for almost nothing. In U.S. dollars you could probably pocket $100 in the deal. If you must use the TY175 tank. The threads are all the same. You just need to make sure you find a tap that threads in and is not the bayonet type. Take a look at some of the push-pull taps, they have no bulk to them at all. Alan

Hi, Are you planning on doing it yourself (and you are just asking about parts cost), or did you plan on having someone else do the work? If you watch Ebay for deals you can usually do a complete rebuild (bearings, seals, piston, rings) for under $150.00 I have no idea what someone would charge to do the work. Alan

So did you guys get the final section markers put out for our big day this coming Sunday? Alan

The flyer for this event can now be found on the CVOTC web site. If you have any questions post them here or on the CVOTC site. Alan

Go on Ebay or to your local bike shop and buy a universal kill switch (usually handlebar mounted). There should be a single wire coming out of the main engine housing going to the coil. Connect one of the wires from the switch you bought - either strip a section of this wire ,or connect to the post on the coil that it connects to. Then seal it up real good - tape/shrink tube/then rtv. Run the other wire from the switch to a bolt going to the frame. What you are doing is grounding the wire from the engine to the coil to kill the engine. Make sure you cable tie the wire in several places so you don't snag it when riding. Also make sure you leave enough free wire so that the handle bars can make a full turn in either direction without pulling the wire. Alan

Glenn, Hope your Saturday comment was a typo. 5th of Sept is a Sunday. Looking forward to seeing you and the boys. Alan

Guys, Between the two of you it now works. You can click the link get right to Jim's post and the link to the flier is included in the post. Hope we have a big turnout. Alan

Feetup, Wow, that has got the be the worst job I have ever done on a TY. The chain side bolt I could get at easier with the bike upright. Not sure that it was really worth all the work. Thanks for your help. Alan

Well, couple of questions: Are you running a battery in the bike? Was the bike running or turned off when you were shocked. If it was running you probably just don't have a very good insulator around the lead. Alan

So I'm fixing/upgrading a few things on the 250. Brake arm bracket is missing on the current swingarm so decide to replace it with a spare from my parts bike. Nut came off fairly easy, bolt will turn with a wrench with no problem. Absolutely will not budge (sideways)(I have beat on it with a hammer). There is quite a bit of play in the swingarm so my guess is that there is a groove cut in the bolt. Any suggestions on how to get the bolt out ... or the swingarm off? Thanks in advance. Alan

Good on ya. Should be a fun ride. I rode a '59 Bantam for a couple of years. Always used a good synthetic with mix ratio what it tells you on the container. Problems I had with the Bantam: Lack of power Bad brakes Tended to overheat - then was hard to start Always had a bad rider I've got a '69 Bushman in the shed that is my next restore project. Alan

Well, you can always put a second spring in - just intertwine the two. But..... I really don't think that is the way to go. You need to figure out why he is twisting the throttle when applying the brake. With the force used to put the brake on a stronger spring isn't going to do much. If he has fairly small hands you may need to move the lever closer to the handlebar so when he reaches for it, it is not such a stretch. If you heat the lever with a propane torch the lever will bend without breaking. Alan

Agree with Feetup. Further thought: You said you rebuilt the bike - did you replace the swing arm bushings? If yes (or no) does the swing arm move up and down freely with no shocks attached? Alan

http://www.bjracing.com/ Alan

This is not the answer you are looking for but.... If you end up not able to remove the seal I have several sets of TY80 forks (all would probably need seals). Your profile doesn't give a location - I'm in NC in the US. Send me a an email if you need another set and we'll work something out. Alan

One of my 74 TY250's has exactly the same problem. You can fix it by either replacing the push-down tab on the carb or bending your current one back into shape. If you look at a drawing of the carb you will see what holds the choke on - it has just gotten bent so it doesn't slip under the other piece correctly. I have not done either, just used it the way it is for well over a year. The bike is easy to start with one hand holding the tab down while you kick. If your bike is like mine it always starts either 1st or 2nd kick when cold and a sort of half hearted kick (without the choke on) when warm to hot. Mine will run fine when cold once I have started it so I really never have needed the choke. Don't know if my comments help at all. Alan

Here is what it looks like now. Think the tank is from a Yamaha 75/76 MX125, it bolted right in place with no cutting. Alan

From: Ed Peacock (ee.peacock@comcast.net) Sent: Wed 6/02/10 10:48 PM To: Alan (ab400@hotmail.com) Hi Alan -- if your inquiry is about Mountainfest, as far as we know it is still on. It is not located at the actual Mtnfest location so that could be why it is not listed in their schedule. Check the trials preview on the Ahrma website under the 'calendar and results' link and it will give you location, times,etc. Take care! Evelyn and Ed Alan

Here is my TY175 the way I got it .....with a TY80 gas tank. Still have both - I have gone to a bigger tank so I could make it around a complete Trial Round. Alan

I'll send an email to Ed and see what is up. Alan

Scott, Darn, we'll have to check further on that. A couple of us that ride CVOTC were planning on going up to ride the WV event. I was sure hopping that AHRMA would get it's ..... together. I had planned to ride in FL in the first event this year but 1 week prior to the event they didn't even have a Trials Master. I wasn't about to drive all the way to FL (take time off work) and find out it was canceled. We probably wouldn't want to come up once a month but a couple of times each season for something special could be worked out. If we had enough warning we might be able to get 5 or 10 guys to come. Alan

Mine leaks somewhere in that area also. Usually end up with some of it on the chain so I just consider it a plus ;0) (doesn't really leak enough to cause any problems). Alan

AHRMA has one scheduled for your state this year. I'm going to try to make it. Probably would be a good time to talk to local riders, maybe even hand out a flyer. Actually you have a good start with this post. Alan