Another dumb question, the swing arm bolt has very few threads engaged, is this normal or did I get to short a bolt? had to destroy the old one getting it out and pretty sure it went all the way through the nut on the old one.
The more I work on this bike the more puzzled I get, the depth of cavity for the fork seal is only enough for one seal and there is no groove for a circlip to hold it in...hmmm
Nice-looking wheelset you've got there. And I'll bet you're glad you didn't toss 'em. They polished up very nicely!
As to your swingarm... the cable guide was likely modified for additional brake rod clearance with the left-side brake. Personally, I like the positive feel of the brake rod vs. right-side pedal using a cable. Doesn't take long to acclimate to opposite shift/brake orientation... and, as an added bonus, with right-side shifting you can really raise that lever for greater obstacle clearance - which you can't do as well with the left-side lever due to lever contact with the drive chain.
Looking forward to your finished restoration!
Still torn on which side to use, but starting to think you may be right
I didnt notice this till after powder coat, looks like some surgery will be needed to convert to RH brake or stick with left hand... Not sure why they did this??
To zerk or not to zerk, that is the question! I have seen some people add zerk fittings to the swing arm and after the nightmare it was to remove the bolt it may not be a bad idea, but what would be the prime location? underneath would be quickly damaged and so was thinking on top if I could get at it?
Noticed that a lot of the screws used a star lock washer that dug into the aluminum, were those stock? not thrilled at the prospect of using those. On a side note, by the looks of the skid plate (bash plate for you UK guys) this bike was rode hard and put away wet! my thinking it may have been an ex pro bike? will have to see if I can dig up some history some day. So go for a new bash plate with wings to protect the cases? Hmmm
Well I tried Feked and trials france but neither site would let me buy anything, website was a POS. So I am off to motion since the wesite actually seems to work and take my money..very frustrating. Would like to go through Hughes, but his website is worthless also.
I read it as the $800 includes the spokes, rim refurb labour and wheel build labour. That sounds like normal commercial rates to me and a good reason to do it yourself
You need to put a picture of the part you're referring to as from your description it could be a preload spacer or an oil deflector. Preload spacers are alloy and sit on top of the fork spring under the cap. The oil deflector is steel and pushes up into the bottom of the spring and sits over the top of the damper rod. I'd guess it's the deflector you're asking about
Your damper rod is certainly different from any other Sherpa rod I've seen
If these are not the standard fork valves, should I use them? What did they come out of?
Bad new, good news, bad news! My wheel builder here in the states says he cannot get rims right now due to the supply chain issue and is 3 months back ordered! On a good note, he said they can polish out my rims with minimal damage showing the bad news is $800 dollars for new spokes polish and build! ouch! Hands are tied, so I am shelling out the bucks for now.
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Bike infohelp
in Bultaco
Posted
Another dumb question, the swing arm bolt has very few threads engaged, is this normal or did I get to short a bolt? had to destroy the old one getting it out and pretty sure it went all the way through the nut on the old one.